THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


KEY.   SEKENO  EUVVAKJJS  BISHOP 
(Taken    in    1902) 


The  Advertiser  Historical  Series 
No.    1 


Reminiscences  of  Old  Hawaii 

by 

Sereno  Edwards  Bishop 


With  a  Brief  Biography 
By   Lorrin  A.  Thurston 


Hawaiian  Gazette  Co.,  Ltd. 
Honolulu,  Hawaii,  1916 


.L^  L/ 


Preface  and  a  Brief  Biography  of  Sereno 
Edwards  Bishop 


THERE  has  recently  been  a  growing  demand,  both  on  the  part  of 
permanent  residents  of  and  visitors  to  Hawaii,  for  specific  informa' 

tion  concerning  the  history  of  Hawaii,  more  particularly  of  the 
period  of  transition  from  the  ancient  feudal  system  when  the  King  and 
Chiefs  had  supreme  and  absolute  power  of  life  and  death  and  the  com- 
mon, people  had  no  rights  of  person  or  property,  to  the  era  when  con- 
stitutional guaranty  of  protection  and  the  laws  of  civilization  became 
established. 

A  comprehensive  history  of  Hawaii  has  yet  to  be  written.  Its 
compilation  will  involve  a  vast  amount  of  investigation  and  study,  as 
the  material  is  scattered  through  governmental  and  court  records,  pri- 
vate correspondence  and  journals,  newspapers  and  magazine  articles; 
while  many  matters,  especially  regarding  the  events  leading  up  to  an- 
nexation, rest  in  the  personal  and  unwritten  knowledge  of  leading 
participants. 

Alexander's  History,  written  for  public  school  purposes,  the  best 
Hawaiian  history  now  available,  is  necessarily  condensed. 

Other  books  bearing  upon  various  phases  of  Hawaiian  life,  were 
issued  in  limited  editions,  and  moreover,  are  mostly  out  of  print. 

Under  these  circumstances,  it  has  been  suggested  to  the  writer  that 
the  best  method  of  meeting  the  present  public  desire  for  information  is  to 
collect  and  publish  the  personal  memoirs,  reminiscences  and  writings 
of  some  of  the  older  residents  of  Hawaii,  who,  through  observation, 
were  able  to  give  first  hand  evidence  of  what  they  saw ;  or  through 
contact  with  those  living,  were  able  to  record  the  traditions  and  evidence 
of  what  had  previously  transpired. 

Among  the  most  lucid  and  almost  photographic  representations  of 
the  daily  life  and  conditions  existing  in  Hawaii  during  the  interval  be- 
tween the  arrival  of  the  missionaries,  in  1820,  and  the  "Great  Re- 
vival," in  1839,  are  the  reminiscences  of  Rev.  Sereno  Edwards  Bishop, 
written  in  1901-2  and  published  in  the  Honolulu  Friend,  while  he  was 
editor  of  that  journal,  and  in  the  Advertiser.  These  have  been  recently 
republished  in  the  Sunday  Advertiser. 

A  number  of  persons  have  urged  that  these  papers  be  preserved  in 
book  form,  in  order  to  give  greater  future  accessibility  thereto. 


The  inil)lio;ition  of  books  in  lla\\;iii  has  not  licrctofore  proved 
profitable  from  a  commercial  standpoint,  as  a  rule,  owing  to  the  limited 
editions  for  which  there  is  a  demanil ;  but  the  increased  book-reading 
constituency  in  llawaii  appears  to  justify  the  venture;  while  the  dis- 
semination of  knowledge  of  what  actual  conditions  were,  during  "the 
good  old  days  when  the  natives  led  the  simple  life,  free  from  the  ills  of 
civilization  and  the  greed  of  land  grabbing  missionaries"  would  seem 
to  be  a  duty  to  the  memory  of  those  who  devoted  their  lives  to  the 
Hawaiian  people,  and  have  now  passed  on.  The  suggestion  of  pub- 
lication of  ^Ir.  Bishop's  Reminiscences  in  book  form  has  therefore  been 
adopted. 

A  BRIEF  BIOGRAPHY  OF  SERENO  E.  BISHOP. 

In  order  that  a  knowledge  of  the  man,  his  personality  and  en- 
vironment, as  well  as  of  his  writings  may  also  be  preserved,  the  fol- 
lowing brief  biography  of  Mr.  Bishop  has  been  compiled  to  accompany 
these  Reminiscences. 

The  pioneer  band  of  American  missionaries  to  Flawaii,  numbered 
seven  men,  who,  with  their  waves,  left  Boston  October  23,  1819,  and 
arrived  at  Kailua,  Hawaii,  April  4,  1820,  after  a  voyage  around  Cape 
Horn  of  164  days. 

The  second  company  consisted  of  six  married  couples  and  two  single 
persons.  They  sailed  from  New  Haven,  Conn.,  Nov.  19,  1822,  and 
arrived  at  Honolulu,  April  27,  1823,  in  158  days. 

Among  the  second  company  was  Rev.  Artemas  Bishop,  a  native  of 
Pompey,  N.  Y.,  where  he  was  born  Oct.  30,  1795.  He  graduated 
from  Union  College  in  1819  and  Princeton  Theological  Seminary  in 
1822.  He  was  married  in  November,  1822,  to  Elizabeth  Edwards,  who 
was  born  at  Marlborough,  Mass.,  June  17,  1796.  Mrs.  Bishop  had  been 
a  girlhood  friend  of  Mrs.  Lucy  G.  Thurston,  wdio  had  preceded  her  to 
Hawaii  as  a  missionary,  some  four  years  earlier. 

The  Bishops  were  first  permanently  stationed  at  Kailua,  Hawaii,  in 
1824,  being  transferred  to  Ewa,  Oahu,  in  1836,  and  to  Honolulu  in 
1855,  where  Mr.  Bishop  died,  Dec.  18,  1872.  Mrs.  Bishop  died  at 
Kailua,  Feb.  28,  1828,  the  first  death  in  the  mission  band.  She  left 
two  infant  children,  one  being  the  subject  of  this  sketch,  Sereno  Ed- 
wards Bishop,  who  w^as  born  at  Kaaw^aloa,  Hawaii,  Feb.  7,  1827. 

Mr.  Bishop,  Sr.,  subsequently  married  Delia  Stone,  who  was  a  mem- 


ber  of  the  third  company  of  missionaries,  Dec.  1,  1828.  She  survived 
her  husband,  dying  at  Honokihi,  April  13,  1875. 

The  life  of  a  "Sandwich  Island"  Mission  boy  in  the  twenties  and 
thirties  was  an  abnormal  one. 

The  mission  house  was  usually  in  a  thickly  inhabited  village,  so  that 
the  missionary  and  his  wife  could  be  close  to  their  work  among  the  peo- 
ple ;  but  such  were  the  open  indecencies  of  the  surrounding  heathen  life 
that  the  mission  children  were  kept  cooped  up  where  they  could  see 
and  hear  but  little  of  what  was  going  on  outside. 

While  the  life  work  of  the  parents  was  being  conducted  in  the  Ha- 
waiian language,  for  the  reason  above  given  the  children  were  not  per- 
mitted to  learn  that  language. 

With  hundreds  of  children  all  about  them,  they  had  no  playmates 
except  the  children  of  other  missionaries,  most  of  whom  were  scattered 
over  the  Islands,  meeting  only  a  few  times  a  year. 

The  life  of  the  missionaries,  as  well  as  of  their  wives,  was  a  strenu- 
ous one.  There  was  a  foreign  language  to  learn ;  a  written  language  to 
create ;  the  scriptures  and  other  books  to  translate ;  schools  to  be  estab- 
lished and  taught ;  medical  attention  to  be  given  to  a  population  num- 
bering thousands ;  churches  to  be  built  and  services  to  be  conducted 
therein ;  visits  to  be  made  to  outlying  villages  (there  were  only  three  mis- 
sionaries on  the  entire  west  coast  of  Hawaii)  ;  admonition  to  be  given 
to  backsliders  ;  the  opposition  of  hostile  foreign  beach  combers  to  be 
counteracted,  and  the  amenities,  decencies  and  industries  of  civliza- 
tion  to  be  taught  by  precept  and  example  to  a  people  virgin  to  both. 

There  did  not  seem  to  be  hours  enough  in  a  day  to  accomplish 
what  had  to  be  done.  The  day  began  at  four  A.  M.  with  no  inter- 
mission until  dark,  while  the  evenings  were  lighted  by  kukui-nut  torches, 
single  wick  whale  oil  lamps  or  home-made  tallow  candles. 

In  the  midst  of  this  strenuous  life  the  mission  children  were  not 
suffered  to  fall  below  the  same  standard  of  activity.  The  same  early 
morning  hours  found  them  at  their  lessons,  and,  under  the  tuition  of 
their  parents,  they  made  such  rapid  progress  that  at  the  age  of  nine, 
the  subject  of  this  sketch  had  finished  arithmetic  and  progressed  into 
algebra ;  had  finished  Blake's  Natural  Physiology ;  was  studying  Latin 
and  botany ;  was  an  adept  speller  and  was  taking  lessons  in  drawing. 

Owing  to  the  then  lack  of  advanced  schools  in  Hawaii,  the  earlier 
mission  children  were  all  "sent  home"  around  Cape  Horn,  to  "be  edu- 
cated." 


This  was  the  darkest  clay  in  the  Hfe  history  of  the  mission  child. 
Pecuharly  dependent  upon  the  family  life,  at  the  age  of  eight  to  twelve 
voars,  they  were  suddenly  torn  from  the  only  intimates  they  had  ever 
known,  and  banished,  lonely  and  homesick,  to  a  mythical  country  on  the 
other  side  of  the  world,  where  they  could  receive  letters  but  once  or 
twice  a  year ;  where  they  must  remain  isolated  from  friends  and  relatives 
lor  years  and  from  which  they  might  never' return. 

In  accordance  with  this  formula,  Sereno  Bishop  was  sent  away  in 
November,  1839,  when  only  twelve  years  of  age.  He  graduated  from 
Amherst  College  in   1846  and  from  Auburn  Theological   Seminary  in 

1851,  and  was  married  to  Cornelia  A.  Sessions  on  May  31,  1852.  They 
celebrated  their  golden  wedding  in  Honolulu  in  1902.  An  item  of 
"human  interest"  in  this  connection  is  that  the  young  couple  became 
acquainted  by  meeting  at  the  house  of  a  mutual  acquaintance,  when  Mr. 
Bishop  read  aloud  the  installments  of  "Uncle  Tom's  Cabin,"  then  ap- 
pearing serially  in  a  New  York  weeky. 

Young  Bishop  early  decided  to  be  a  missionary,  and  accordingly 
when  offered  the  position  of  seaman's  chaplin  at  Lahaina,   Maui,  in 

1852,  he  immediately  accepted  and  proceeded  to  his  post,  via  Cape  Horn 
and  San  Francisco,  arriving  January  16,  1853.  On  the  way  out  a  three 
weeks'  stay  was  made  at  Rio  Janeiro,  Brazil,  where  particular  notice 
was  taken  of  the  grand  avenue  of  royal  palms,  from  which  upon  another 
occasion,  Dr.  Judd  carried  away  a  couple  of  seeds  which  he  subse- 
quently planted  at  the  "Bates"  place,  now  Samuel  Baldwin's,  on  Nuuanu 
street,  Honolulu.  One  grew  and  still  stands.  From  this  one  seed  have 
come  all  the  royal  palms  in  the  Islands. 

To  those  who  know  Lahaina  but  as  a  sugar  plantation  town,  it  may 
be  said  that  it  was  then  the  center  of  shipping  activity  of  the  Pacific, 
being  the  port  of  call  of  over  300  American  whale  ships,  besides  other 
commercial  and  national  vessels.  It  also  still  divided  honors  with  Hono- 
lulu as  the  seat  of  government,  and  was  the  center  of  a  large  popula- 
tion, both  native  and  foreign.  It  was  at  Lahaina,  only  a  few  years 
before,  that  the  commander  of  a  United  States  warship  forced  the  repeal 
of  a  law  against  vice,  by  threats  of  violence,  and  that  five  cannon  balls 
were  fired  at  the  house  of  the  resident  missionary,  the  Rev.  William 
Richards,  because  of  his  influence  with  the  native  government  in  sup- 
port of  laws  against  immorality. 

The  writer's  mother,  who  was  born  at  Lahaina  and  spent  her  earlier 


years  there,  once  told  him  that  two  of  these  cannon  balls,  which  fell  in 
the  Richards'  yard,  were  for  years  playthings  for  herself  and  the  other 
mission  children. 

The  Bishops  remained  nine  years  at  Lahaina,  where  five  children 
were  born  to  them,  two  little  boys  being  left  in  the  Lahaina  Mission 
church  yard. 

With  the  rise  of  Honolulu  in  importance  as  a  seaport,  Lahaina 
declined,  and  in  1862  Mr.  Bishop  transferred  his  residence  to  the  iso- 
lated station  at  Hana,  Maui,  where  for  three  and  a  half  years  he  served 
as  a  missionary  of  the  American  Board.  The  journey  had  to  be  made 
overland  on  horseback,  occupying  several  days,  the  children  being  car- 
ried in  a  canvas  "manele,"  on  the  shoulders  of  a  couple  of  stout  Ha- 
waiians.  The  only  other  whites  living  in  Hana  were  Mr,  and  Mrs. 
Wm.  Needham  and  their  daughter  Hattie. 

In  1865,  still  in  the  service  of  the  Board,  he  became  principal  of  the 
Lahainaluna  industrial  school,  then  the  only  one  of  high  school  grade 
available  to  Hawaiians,  in  which  position  he  continued  until  July,  1877. 

The  writer  well  remembers  his  vigorous  and  kindly  nature  at  this 
period.  He  visited  our  home  at  Makawao,  about  1872,  and  wishing  to 
try  out  a  horse  which  he  contemplated  buying,  invited  me,  a  fourteen- 
year-old  boy,  to  accompany  him  home,  which  I  did  on  a  little  roan  pony 
with  a  white  face  and  one  white  eye.  There  was  neither  road  nor  fence 
across  the  plain,  now  occupied  by  the  Hawaiian  Commercial  Planta- 
tion, at  Maalaea  Bay,  and  access  to  Lahaina  was  by  a  steep  and  rough 
trail  over  the  mountain,  rising  to  an  elevation  of  over  a  thousand  feet. 
We  made  the  distance,  some  thirty  odd  miles,  in  four  and  a  quarter 
hours.  Mr.  Bishop  bought  the  horse.  Incidentally,  from  Lahaina  I 
went  to  Honolulu  by  the  schooner  Nettie  Merril,  originally  a  Boston 
pilot  boat,  departing  during  a  heavy  Kona.  During  the  course  of  em- 
barkation boats  were  twice  capsized  in  the  surf,  one  containing  the  cap- 
tain of  the  schooner,  Ezra  Crane,  father  of  the  present  manager  of 
The  Hawaiian  Gazette  Co.  The  captain  could  not  swim  and  was  rescued 
from  under  the  boat  by  the  native  crew. 

I  have  a  most  vivid  memory  of  the  whale  boat  coasting  down  the 
huge  breaker,  suddenly  shearing  ofif  with  terrific  speed  along  the  front 
of  the  wave,  into  the  mounting  face  of  which  the  steersman  and  five 
oarsmen  instantly  and  simultaneously  dived,  the  boat  being  overwhelmed 
with  its  lone  occupant. 

Mr.  Bishop  remained  at  Lahainaluna  for  twelve  years,  when  he  re- 


sigTied,  in  July.  1877,  on  account  of  the  strain  on  his  health  caused  by  a 
continuous  indoor  life.  Moreover,  the  school  had  theretofore  been  taught 
exclusively  in  Hawaiian  and  it  havinpf  been  decided  to  change  to  Eng- 
lish, Mr.  Bishop  thought  it  better  that  the  change  should  be  inaugurated 
by  some  one  else. 

While  at  Lahainaluna,  he  was  one  of  the  first  to  make  the  ascent 
to  the  top  of  West  ^laui,  IMount  Eke,  where  there  is  a  sheer  descent 
into  lao  \'alley  of  approximately  3000  feet,  and  froin  which  he  obtained 
a  view  of  all  the  islands  from  Hawaii  to  Oahu.  Mr.  Bishop  was  wont 
to  say  that  after  visiting  all  the  islands  and  their  most  spectaculai 
features,  he  considered  this  view  from  Eke  the  most  wonderful  and 
beautiful  of  all.  Mr.  Bishop  considered  that  the  work  which  he  did 
among  the  native  students  at  Lahainaluna  was  among  the  most  fruitful 
of  his  life.  He  left  his  mark  at  Lahainaluna,  physically,  in  the  shape  of 
the  grand  avenue  of  monkey  pods  on  the  road  to  Lahaina,  which  he 
personally  planted. 

From  Lahainaluna  IMr.  Bishop  removed  to  Honolulu,  where  he  lived 
until  his  death,  Alarch  23rd,  1909. 

As  evidence  of  Mr.  Bishop's  versatility,  he  now  joined  the  staff  of 
the  Hawaiian  Government  Survey  Department,  and  for  four  years  was 
in  its  active  service,  both  in  the  field  and  of^ce.  Among  the  more  im- 
portant work  done  by  him,  was  the  compilation  of  the  first  detail  map 
of  the  Island  of  Kauai,  and  the  mapping  of  the  complicated  land  titles 
and  water  rights  of  Nuuanu  Valley,  in  Honolulu.  After  this  he  con- 
tinued independently  in  the  profession  for  eight  years  more. 

At  this  time  he  bought  a  piece  of  land  on  Liliha  street,  laid  it  out 
into  lots  and  streets,  and  sold  the  lots.  So  far  as  I  know  this  was  the 
first  "addition"  to  the  city  on  recognized  modern  lines.  Kuakini  street 
was  opened  and  named  by  Mr.  Bishop  at  this  time ;  that  being  the 
name  that  he  was  known  by  among  the  Hawaiians  in  his  youth,  it  being 
derived  from  the  Governor  of  Hawaii,  who  lived  at  Kailua  when  Mr. 
Bishop  was  a  boy  there. 

While  a  vigorous  theologian,  he  was  not  entirely  of  the  old  school. 

For  example,  he  immediately  accepted  Darwin's  theory  of  evolu- 
tion, at  a  time  when  such  theory  was  considered  by  the  religious  world 
in  general  to  be  rank  heresy.  Differences  in  denominational  creeds  did 
not  appeal  to  him.  One  of  his  standard  positions  was  that :  "all  the 
creed  that  a  Christian  needs  is  'I  love  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ.'  " 

Mr.  Bishop  was  of  an  intensely  analytical  and  logical  nature,  and  a 


close  student  both  of  socialogical  questions  and  the  laws  of  nature. 
Geology,  more  particularly  volcanology,  especially  interested  him. 

An  amusing-  incident  grew  out  of  an  article  published  by  him,  in 
1901,  dealing  with  Diamond  Head,  Punchbowl,  and  the  other  tufa 
craters  in  the  vicinity  of  Honolulu,  in  which  he  gave  an  estimate  in 
round  numbers  of  their  respective  ages.  Some  time  later  a  ma-li-hi-ni 
asked  a  ka-ma-ai-na  how  long  ago  Diamond  Head  was  an  active  vol- 
cano.     "Just  20,008  years  ago,"  was  the  prompt  reply. 

"How  do  you  arrive  at  that  exact  figure?" 

"Why,  just  eight  years  ago  Sereno  Bishop  said  it  was  20,000  years 
old ;  therefore,  it  must  now  be  20,008  years  old." 

In  illustration  of  his  breadth  of  learning  and  wide  information,  a 
book  canvasser  called  at  the  house  one  day  and  expatiated  upon  the 
value  of  an  encyclopedia  which  he  represented.  A  little  grand  daughter 
listened  to  the  talk  and  finally  broke  in  with  the  remark :  "We  don't 
need  that  book.     When  we  want  to  know  anything  we  ask  grandpa." 

In  1887,  Mr.  Bishop  assumed  the  editorship  of  the  "Friend,"  a 
monthly  journal,  founded  in  Honolulu  in  1843,  "the  oldest  publication 
west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains."  This  connection  continued  until  May, 
1902. 

Originally  devoted  especially  to  the  interests  of  seamen  and  the 
advocacy  of  temperance,  the  Friend  had  become,  practically,  the  un- 
official mouth  piece  and  recorder  of  the  Protestant  religious  life  and 
progress  of  the  Islands.  Sereno  Bishop  added  to  this,  vigorous  edi- 
torial advocacy  of  civic  righteousness  and  progress  and  development  in 
social,  mercantile  and  governmental  affairs. 

As  the  conflict  developed  during  the  latter  eighties  and  early  nine- 
ties, between  reactionary  tendencies  and  the  progressive  element  of  the 
community,  which  finally  culminated  in  the  overthrow  of  the  monarchy 
and  annexation  to  the  United  States,  Mr.  Bishop  developed  a  remark- 
able faculty  of  analysis  of  the  complicated  situation  and  a  powerful, 
virile  use  of  English  which  carried  conviction  as  to  the  knowledge  of 
the  subject  and  sincerity  of  the  author;  the  accuracy  of  his  statements 
and  the  soundness  of  his  conclusions.  Flis  contributions  were  not  con- 
fined to  the  columns  of  the  "Friend,"  but  extended  to  the  local  press  and 
to  magazines  on  the  mainland.  He  it  was  who,  in  an  article  contributed 
to  a  mainland  magazine,  coined  the  phrase  descriptive  of  Hawaii,  since 
universally  used,  "The  Cross  Roads  of  the   Pacific."      Most  import- 


10 

ant  of  all.  he  became  the  correspondent  of  the  Washington,  D.  C, 
Evening  Star,  under  the  name  of  "Kamehameha." 

The  high  standing  of  the  Star ;  the  clear  and  fearless  statements  of 
fact  and  the  sledge-hammer  logic  of  the  conclusions  reached,  were  in- 
valuable as  an  educative  influence  on  the  American  public  during  the 
mterregfnum  between  the  overthrow  of  the  monarchy  in  1893  and  the 
consummation  of  annexation  in  1898,  and  were  a  powerful  factor  in  the 
achievement  of  the  final  result. 

Mr.  Bishop  had  previously  commanded  local  respect  and  attention 
as  a  scientific  thinker  and  writer,  but  he  achieved  international  fame  in 
this  respect  in  1883. 

Early  in  September  of  that  year  there  suddenly  began  a  continued 
series  of  the  most  gorgeous  and  beautiful  sunsets  and  sunrises.  The 
most  remarkable  feature,  however,  was  the  "after  glow,"  extending  for 
hours  after  sunset  and  before  sunrise.  At  Honolulu  it  did  not  con- 
tinue so  late  as  in  more  northern  latitudes ;  but  for  an  hour  or  more 
after  sunset  the  whole  western  heavens  glowed  with  the  intensity  of  an 
incandescent  electric  light,  throwing  a  weird  and  ghastly  reflection 
on  the  landscape.  The  writer  retains  a  most  vivid  recollection  of  the 
grandeur  and  strangeness  of  the  scene,  in  connection  wath  the  odd 
circumstances  that,  being  then  a  member  of  a  baseball  team,  we  were 
able  to  play  ball  much  later  than  had  previously  been  the  case. 

Another  remarkable  feature  was  that  throughout  the  day  there  were 
halo-like  rings  possessing  a  metallic  glitter,  around  the  sun. 

The  w^iole  world  w-as  agog  with  wonder  and  inquiry  as  to  the 
cause  of  the  phenomena.  There  were  the  usual  suggestions  of  the  ap- 
proaching end  of  the  world  and  endless  speculations,  but  no  theory 
which  would  hold  water,  until  from  far  Hawaii,  over  the  signature  of 
Sereno  E.  Bishop,  appeared  an  article,  illustrated  with  drawings  demon- 
strating the  argument,  propounding  an  explanation  which  was  eventually 
unanimously  accepted  by  the  scientific  world  as  correct. 

It  appeared  that  on  August  26,  1883,  one  of  the  most  tremendous 
volcanic  explosions  recorded  in  history  occurred  on  the  Island  of  Kra- 
katoa,  off  the  coast  of  Java.  Varying  estimates  were  made  that,  from 
one  to  twelve  cubic  miles  of  material,  were  blown  into  fragments,  the 
finer  dust  being  projected  so  high  that  it  reached  sufficiently  beyond  the 
attraction  of  gravitation  to  lag  behind  the  revolution  of  the  earth  and 
the  lower  atmosphere,  thereby  in  the  course  of  a  few  days  extending 
around  the  earth  and  shortly  completely  enveloping  it.      Mr.  Bishop 


11 

evolved  the  theory  that  the  reflection  of  the  sun's  rays  on  these  minute 
particles  was  the  cause  of  all  the  phenomena,  andthe  theory  was  adopted, 
the  circles  about  the  sun  being-  named  in  his  honor  the  "Bishop  Rings." 

In  1896  his  alma  mater,  Amherst  College,  conferred  upon  him  the 
degree  of  Doctor  of  Divinity,  in  recognition  of  his  literary  and  scientific 
attainments. 

Sereno  E.  Bishop  was  one  of  those  of  whom  it  is  true,  that  "the 
world  is  wiser  and  better  by  reason  of  his  having  lived  in  it." 

LoRRiN  A.  Thurston. 

Honolulu,  Sept.  30,  1916. 


/Memories  of  Kailua 


THE  writer  was  born  noar  Kailua,  and  passed  bis  first  nine  years  there,  until 
removal  to  Ewa  in  1836.  Life  in  an  early  missionary's  home  was  pecu- 
liar. Kecollections  of  it  will  no  doubt  interest  many  persons. 
In  the  early  thirties,  Kailua  was  a  large  native  village,  of  about  4000  in- 
habitants rather  closely  packed  along  one  hundred  rods  of  shore,  and  averaging 
twenty  rods  inland.  It  had  been  the  chief  residence  of  King  Kamehameha, 
who  in  1S19  died  there  in  a  rudely  built  stone  house  whose  walls  are  probably 
still  standing  on  the  west  shore  of  the  little  bay.  Near  by  stood  a  better  stone 
house  occupied  by  the  doughty  Governor  Kuakini.  All  other  buildings  in  Kailua 
were  thatched,  until  Kev.  Artemas  Bishop  built  his  two-story  stone  dwelling  in 
IS.Sl  and  Rev.  Asa  Thurston  in  1833  built  his  wooden  two-story  house  at  Lania- 
kea,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  inland.  Many  of  the  native  cottages  were  commodious 
and  neat  inside,  belonging  to  natives  of  more  or  less  rank.  But  the  great 
majority  were  small,  and  betokened,  great  poverty,  both  outside  and  within. 
There  was  an  immense  church  on  the  same  ground  where  now  stands  the  old 
stone  church.  This  was  erected  by  Governor  Kuakini  about  1828.  It  was  a 
wholly  native  structure,  framed  with  immense  timbers  cut  and  dragged  from 
the  great  interior  forest  by  Kuakini  superintending  his  subjects  in  person.  The 
thatch  was  of  the  very  durable  la-i  or  ti  leaf.  Most  of  the  native  huts  were 
thatched  with  the  stiff  pili  grass.  The  better  ones  were  thatched  with  lau-hala 
(pandanus  leaf)   or  with  la-i. 

KAILUA    IN    THE    TWENTIES. 

Kailua  was  the  capital  of  the  Island.  It  is  situated  on  the  west  coast, 
twelve  miles  north  of  Kealakekua,  where  Captain  Cook  perished.  It  lies  at  the 
base  of  the  great  mountain  Hualalai,  8275  feet  high.  The  entire  coast  consists 
of  lava  flows  from  that  mountain,  of  greater  or  less  age.  Here  and  there  in 
the  village  were  small  tracts  of  soil  on  the  lava,  where  grew  a  few  cocoanut, 
kou,  and  pandanus  trees.  There  were  no  gardens,  for  lack  of  water.  Heat 
and  general  aridity  characterized  the  place.  But  it  pleased  the  natives,  on 
account  of  the  broad  calm  ocean,  the  excellent  fishing,  and  the  splendid  rollers 
of  surf  on  which  they  played  and  slid  all  day. 

North  of  the  town,  the  whole  region  seemed  to  be  occupied  by  an  ocean  of 
black  billowy  lava  which  at  some  recent  period  had  flowed  down  from  the 
mountain.  This  bounded  that  end  of  the  village.  A  vast  breadth  of  this  lava- 
sea  had  invaded  the  ocean  for  miles,  beyond  the  older  shore  line  of  Kailua.  A 
wide  tongue  of  lava  had  bent  around  and  partially  enclosed  the  little  cove  with 
its  deep  sand  beach  where  was  the  chief  landing  of  the  town. 

SURAaVAL  OP  IDOL  WORSHIP. 
On  this  lava  breadth,  back  of  Kamehameha 's  house,  was  a  heiau,  or  temple- 
platform  of  stone,  where  were  standing  five  tall  wooden  idols.  We  used  occa- 
sionally to  go  there  and  look  at  their  huge  shark-mouths  and  other  grotesque- 
ness.  I  suppose  that  out  of  respect  to  the  deceased  Conqueror,  these  gods  of  his 
had  been  permitted  to  survive  the  general  destruction  of  the  idols  of  Hawaii. 
No  doubt  the  fear  of  them  was  still  strong  in  the  minds  of  the  people.     I  never 


heard  what  finally  became  of  them,  but  have  heard  that  after  we  left  Kailua, 
Governor  Kuakini  suffered  a  relapse  into  idol-worship,  and  that  Father  Thurston 
descended  upon  the  formidable  old  chief,  and  berated  him  with  such  severity  that 
he  submitted  and  repented.  I  well  remember  the  tremendous  governor.  He  was 
an  enormous  man  of  great  stature,  and  proportioned  like  Mr.  Paul  Isenberg,  Jr. 
His  weight  was  estimated  at  500  pounds.  I  used  to  see  him  mounted  on  a  strong 
"calico"  horse  whose  back  bent  under  his  weight,  and  which  seemed  to  trot  with 
difficulty.  All  the  natives,  high  and  low,  stood  in  great  awe  of  him,  and  crouched 
abjectly  in  his  presence,  crawling  on  hands  and  knees.  Kuakini  paid  us  occa- 
sional visits,  occupying  a  very  broad  arm  chair  my  father  had  made.  He  used  to 
take  some  notice  of  the  small  boy,  whom  many  of  the  natives  called  after  his 
name.  But  his  calls  were  long  and  tedious,  if  infrequent.  His  wife,  Keoua,  was 
like  himself,  a  royal  chief  of  highest  rank,  and  not  quite  equally  ponderous.  I 
remember  seeing  the  princely  pair  lolling  on  their  own  pile  of  rich  Niihau  mats, 
with  many  attendants  busily  kneading  their  bodies  and  limbs  (lomi-lomi).  Ages 
of  nourishing  diet  and  massage  for  digestion  had  bred  a  royal  Hawaiian  race  of 
immense  stature  and  girth. 

APPEARANCE  OF  CHIEFS  AND  PEOPLE. 

The  relative  rank  of  other  natives  could  be  approximately  estimated  by 
their  stature  and  corpulence.  There  were  quite  a  number  of  large  fat  men 
and  women  of  some  rank  among  our  neighbors.  The  leading  women  met  weekly 
at  our  house,  most  of  them  wearing  the  lei-pa-laoa,  consisting  of  a  thick  bunch 
of  finely  plaited  hair  passed  through  a  large  hole  in  a  hooked  polished  piece  of 
whale-tooth,  and  tied  around  the  neck,  forming  an  insignium  of  rank.  They  also 
carried  small  kahilis  to  brush  away  the  flies.  Any  chief  of  high  rank  was 
attended  by  one  or  more  fly-brushers,  by  a  spittoon-bearer,  and  other  personal 
attendants.  The  spittoon  holder  was  the  most  honored,  being  responsible  to  let 
none  of  the  spittle  fall  into  the  possession  of  an  evil-minded  sorcerer,  who  might 
compass  the  death  of  the  Alii  therewith.  Broad,  elastic  cocoanut  leaf  fans  were 
in  constant  play. 

Hawking  and  spitting  were  continued  in  any  gathering  of  natives,  and  were 
apt  seriously  to  disturb  public  worship  at  church. 

But  the  great  crowd  of  the  common  people  were  miserably  lean,  and  often 
very  squalid  in  appearance.  They  were  too  much  in  the  sea  to  appear  filthy, 
although  the  heads  of  both  high  and  low  were  thoroughly  infested.  It  was  a 
daily  spectacle  to  see  them  picking  over  each  other's  heads  for  dainties.  Their 
vicinity  rendered  necessary  the  frequent  use  of  a  fine-toothed  comb  on  us  chil- 
dren, much  to  our  discomfort.  But  I  believe  our  ancestors  at  no  remote  period 
were  little  better  off. 

SOURCE  OP  FOOD  SUPPLY. 

The  people  had  ample  cultivable  land  in  the  moist  upland  from  two  to  four 
miles  inland  at  altitudes  of  one  thousand  to  twenty-five  hundred  feet.  It  is  a 
peculiarity  of  that  Kona  coast  that  while  the  shore  may  be  absolutely  rainless 
for  months  gentle  showers  fall  daily  upon  the  mountain  slope.  The  prevailing 
trade-winds  are  totally  obstructed  by  the  three  great  mountain  domes  and  never 
reach  Kona.     There  are  only  the  sweet  land  breeze  by  night,  and  the  cooling 


14 

sea-breeze  by  day.  The  latter  comes  in,  loaded  witli  the  evaporations  of  the  sea, 
and  floats  high  up  the  mountain  slopes.  As  it  rises,  the  rarification  of  the  air 
precipitates  more  and  more  of  its  burden  of  vapor,  so  that  at  two  thousand 
and  three  thousand  feet,  there  are  daily  copious  rains,  and  verdure  is  luxuriant. 
The  contrast  is  immense  and  delicious  between  the  arid  heat  of  the  shore,  and 
the  moist  cool  greenness  of  the  near-by  upland.  The  soil  is  most  fertile,  being 
formed  from  the  decay  of  recent  lava  flows.  There  the  natives  found  their  chief 
means  of  subsistence,  and,  in  good  seasons,  were  sufliciently  fed.  In  bad  seasons 
there  were  drought,  and  more  or  less  of  "wi,"  or  famine.  The  uala  or  sweet 
potatoes,  and  the  taro,  which  constituted  their  chief  food  grew  best  on  the  lower 
and  warmer  ground,  where  was  more  liability  to  drought. 

CAUSES  OP  DESTITUTION. 
The  chief  causes  of  destitution  were  the  ceaseless  oppression  of  the  chiefs, 
and  the  attendant  shiftlessness  of  the  people.  No  one  owned  his  land,  and 
occupied  it  solely  at  the  will  or  caprice  of  his  chief,  who  might  and  often  did 
without  notice  deprive  him  of  the  products  of  his  toil,  and  even  of  the  land 
itself.  The  village  was  much  infested  by  miserably  lean  pigs,  whose  scant  food 
came  by  seavengering.  Occasionally  a  pig  was  fattened  in  a  pen.  But  the  eye 
of  the  chief's  retainer  was  usually  upon  any  such  pigs,  and  it  was  likely  to  be 
snatched  away,  even  after  being  cooked.  No  one  dared  to  remonstrate.  Hence 
the  village  was  a  place  of  great  and  squalid  poverty.  No  man  or  woman  could 
earn  the  smallest  coin.  No  money  was  in  circulation.  The  women  very  com- 
monly plaited  mats  of  lau-hala,  and  there  was  much  beating  of  tapa,  or  bark- 
cloth.  It  is  a  dreary  memory  of  childhood,  that  dismal  resonance  of  the  tapa- 
mallets  all  around  the  village. 

STYLES   OF    CLOTHING. 

The  common  multitude  wore  no  foreign  cloth.  Their  few  garments  were 
wholly  of  tapa.  The  younger  women  were  rarely  seen  uncovered  beyond  decency, 
although  old  crones  went  about  with  the  pa-u  only.  The  smaller  children  had 
nothing  on.  The  men  always  wore  the  half-decent  malo,  and  nothing  more. 
At  meetings,  they  wore  the  little  kihei,  or  shoulder  cape.  Before  1836,  simple 
cotton  shirts  would  not  unfrequently  be  seen  in  the  church.  I  never  saw  but 
two  Hawaiians  wearing  trousers  in  Kailua.  One  was  Kuakini  and  the  other 
Thomas  Hopu,  from  the  Cornwall  School,  who  came  out  with  Bingham  and 
Thurston.  The  national  female  costume  was  the  pa-u,  which  was  worn  by  all 
at  all  times.  It  was  a  yard  wide  strip  of  bark-cloth  wound  quite  tightly  around 
the  hips  reaching  from  the  waist  to  the  knees,  and  secured  at  the  waist  by 
folding  over  the  edges.  Foreign  cloth  was  also  used.  At  one  great  ceremonial, 
a  queen  had  her  body  rolled  up  in  a  pa-u  of  one  hundred  yards  of  rich  satin. 

SOURCES  OF. DRINKING  WATER, 

The  drinking  water  of  the  people  was  very  brackish,  from  numerous  caves 
which  reached  below  the  sea  level.  The  white  people,  and  some  chiefs  had 
their  water  from  up  the  mountain  where  were  numerous  depressions  in  the  lava, 
full  of  clear,  sweet  rain  water.     There  were  also  many  tunnel-caves,  the  chan- 


15 

nels  of  former  lava-streams.  The  air  from  the  sea,  penetrating  these  chill 
caverns,  deposited  its  moisture,  and  much  distilled  water  filled  the  holes  in  the 
floor.  Sometimes  the  fine  rootlets  of  ohia-trees  penetrating  from  above,  festooned 
the  ceilings  of  these  dark  lava-ducts  as  with  immense  spider  webs.  If  in  a  dry 
season,  water  was  lacking  on  the  open  ground,  it  could  always  be  found  higher  up 
on  the  mountain  in  such  caves.  Twice  a  week  one  of  our  ohuas  or  native 
dependants  went  up  the  mountain  with  two  huewai,  or  calabash  bottles,  sus- 
pended by  nets  from  the  ends  of  his  mamaki  or  yoke,  similar  to  those  used  by 
Chinese  vegetable  venders.  These  he  filled  with  sweet  water  and  brought  home, 
having  first  covered  the  bottles  with  fresh  ferns,  to  attest  his  having  been  well 
inland.  The  contents  of  the  two  bottles  filled  a  five-gallon  demijohn  twice  a 
week. 

DOMESTIC    ECONOMY    OP    THE    MISSIONARIES. 

For  cooking  and  cleaning  purposes,  the  brackish  water  sufficed.  I  liked  it 
for  drink  as  a  child,  although  it  later  became  revolting.  Our  people  took  our 
clothes  up  the  mountain  to  be  washed.  The  wealth  of  clothing  hung  out  on  the 
lines  was  a  wonder  to  the  people,  who  had  none.  On  one  day  when  my  father 
was  about  to  sail  to  Honolulu,  his  six  new  shirts  hung  out  on  the  line  together. 
A  great  amazement  pervaded  the  minds  of  the  villagers  at  the  incredible 
opulence  of  their  spiritual  father,  and  the  premises  were  surrounded  with  crowds 
to  gaze  at  the  marvel.  Our  house  occupied  about  an  acre  of  land,  half  of  it  in 
yards  for  our  native  ohuas,  and  for  domestic  animals,  cows,  pigs,  and  poultry. 
The  other  half  where  the  children  played  was  surrounded  by  a  high  wall  topped 
by  a  projecting  paling  to  bar  out  native  intruders.  Four  men  and  their  wives 
constituted  our  force  of  servants.  For  wages  they  received  their  living.  We 
had  a  block  of  land  up  the  mountain  where  the  men  cultivated  food  for  us  and 
themselves.  I  believe  it  is  the  same  land  now  owned  by  Miss  Baird,  as  reported 
in  October  Friend.  We  had  up  there  flourishing  orange  trees  and  grape  vines, 
and  were  well  supplied  with  taro,  sweet  potatoes,  bananas  and  sugar  cane.  Very 
oddly  we  had  not  learned  to  cook  bananas. 

STATUS   OF   SERVANTS   OP   THE    MISSION. 

The  position  of  house-servants  to  missionaries  was  one  greatly  coveted  by 
the  natives,  who  were  miserably  poor.  They  were  exempt  from  the  grinding 
oppressions  of  the  chiefs  and  their  retainers.  They  always  had  abundance  to 
eat  and  wear,  and  were  people  of  importance  in  the  community.  My  personal 
nurse  in  infant  years  was  Maunalua,  the  wife  of  our  very  capable  and  energetic 
cook  Kalaikini.  They  left  us  in  1832  to  be  schooled  at  the  new  Lahainaluna 
Seminary.  Kalaikini  had  great  business  capacity,  and  became  an  excellent 
mason  and  builder  in  Lahaina.  Under  my  father's  guardianship,  most  of  his 
numerous  children  had  survived,  and  a  large  family  grew  up.  The  like  was 
the  case  with  a  majority  of  the  old  native  servants  of  the  missionaries,  while 
most  of  the  children  of  other  natives  died  in  infancy  through  mismanagement. 
A  grand-daughter  of  Kalaikini  is  now  a  millionaire  of  much  social  XJOsition,  and 
wide  travel. 


16 


TlIK    MISSION    FOOD    SUPPLY. 


At  one  time,  in  the  twenties,  the  two  mission  families  at  Kailua  had  a 
severe  experience  of  famine  with  the  people,  and  were  unable  to  procure  the 
ordinary  food.  It  was  a  blessed  God-send  when  rain  came,  and  a  plentiful  crop 
of  wild  mustard  sprang  up,  furnishing  abundance  of  boiled  greens.  I  think  we 
always  had  enough  food  to  eat,  such  as  sweet  potatoes,  taro,  poi,  goat's  milk, 
bananas,  sugar  cane,  fresh  pork,  chickens,  turkeys  and  fish.  Irish  potatoes  we 
never  saw,  nor  beef  except  salted,  procured  from  whalers.  Wild  cattle  abounded 
on  Mauna  Kea,  on  the  other  side  of  the  island.  We  and  the  Thurstons  each  kept 
a  few  cows  which  grazed  on  the  sparse  herbage  of  the  lower  slope.  They  were 
from  the  wild  stock  introduced  from  California  by  Vancouver,  and  yielded  little 
milk,  which  was  reserved  for  butter.  A  good  flock  of  goats  gave  a  good  supply 
of  milk  for  the  table,  and  the  kids  were  delicious  eating.  My  step  mother  was 
a  food  cook,  and  we  often  had  puddingi  of  rice  and  of  pia,  or  arrow-root,  which 
was  an  abundant  wild  product  of  this  country. 

CONDITION    OP   FLOUR. 

Eice  came  from  China,  generally  becoming  very  weevly.  Our  scanty  sup- 
plies of  flour  came  from  Boston,  ordered  by  our  fiscal  agent,  Mr.  Levi  Cham- 
berlain. Coming  around  Cape  Horn,  before  the  art  of  kiln-drying  had  been 
learned,  it  was  commonly  mouldy,  and  full  of  large  white  worms.  After 
careful  sifting,  the  good  lady  would  proceed  to  incorporate  into  the  flour  an 
equal  bulk  of  boiled  sweet  potato  thoroughly  rubbed  in,  so  as  seldom  to  betray 
its  presence.  The  bread  was  fairly  light,  and  far  better  than  no  bread,  though 
we  children  got  little  of  it,  and  no  butter  at  all.  Mrs.  Thurston's  bread  used  to 
be  much  darker.  I  think  she  worked  poi  into  it.  Sour  milk  was  abundant  and 
helped,  with  salaeratus,  to  make  the  bread  light.  Mr.  Chamberlain  allowanced 
each  mission  family  one  barrel  of  flour  per  annum.  I  remember  witnessing 
my  father  and  Mr.  Thurston  in  the  act  of  dividing  a  barrel  of  flour,  which  may 
have  been  an  extra  bonus.  They  sawed  it  in  half.  The  inside  was  solidly  caked, 
mouldy  for  two  inches  in,  and  thoroughly  wormy.  It  was  all  eaten  except  for 
the  mouldy  exterior. 

LITERARY   AND   MEDICAL   WORK    OF    THE    MISSIONARIES. 

Messrs.  Thurston  and  Bishop  both  enjoj^ed  vigorous  health,  and  labored 
hard  in  their  calling.  What  we  children  saw  was  for  one  thing  their  daily  toil 
at  their  tables  in  translating  the  Scriptures  from  the  original  Greek  and  Hebrew 
into  the  Hawaiian  vernacular,  their  manuscripts  being  forwarded  for  revision 
after  mutual  comparison,  to  Mr.  Eichards  at  Lahaina,  or  Mr.  Bingham  at 
Honolulu.  There  was  also  much  preparation  of  school  books  and  of  hymns. 
These  studies,  however,  were  constantly  interrupted  by  calls  from  natives  at 
all  hours,  very  commonly  for  medicine.  Mr.  Bishop,  being  centrally  located,  had 
most  of  this  work.  He  had  shelves  full  of  medicine  bottles,  also  a  chest  of 
drugs  which,  when  opened,  dispensed  a  sickening  odor  of  aloes.  A  prominent  drug 
was  red  precipitate  of  mercury,  which  he  used  to  dust  upon  the  fearful  syphilitic 
ulcers  which  disfigured  so  many  of  the  people's  limbs  and  faces.     Salts,  blue- 


REV.    AIJTKMAS    BISHOP 
Missiiin;irv   to    Il:nviiii:    I'iitlii'r   of    Scrciio    K.    liisliii]) 


17 

pill  and  calomel  were  leading  drugs  which  I  heard  much  of.  Blood-letting  was 
a  constant  remedy  in  which  Father  Bishop  was  an  adept.  Binding  the  arm, 
he  would  prick  the  lancet  into  the  swollen  vein,  and  the  dark  blood  would  spurt 
three  feet  into  the  basin  held  to  receive  it.  That  is  obsolete  practice,  yet  he  un- 
doubtedly relieved  much  misery,  and  saved  many  lives,  for  the  people  confided 
in  him,  and  could  not  be  frightened  by  their  kahunas  from  seeking  his  minis- 
tration, although  multitudes  of  them  perished  by  the  malpractice  of  these 
sorcerers. 

RELIGIOUS   AND    EDUCATIONAL   WORK. 

Both  these  missionaries,  in  addition  to  the  regular  Sabbath  and  week-day 
services  of  the  town,  alternately  held  similar  services  in  the  villages  within 
six  miles  each  way,  going  by  canoe,  or  often  on  foot,  having  no  horse  until 
1835.  They  also  did  an  arduous  labor  in  superintending  the  very  inefficient  work 
of  the  native  teachers  in  the  schools  of  the  region.  Every  few  months  was  held 
in  the  great  church  a  grand  field-day,  called  Hoike,  or  exhibition,  when  all  the 
pupils  of  the  schools  in  the  district  assembled,  and  displayed  their  acquirements. 
We  children  thought  these  high  times,  when  platoons  of  gaily-rigged  women  and 
half-naked  men  would  stalk  to  the  front  and  pronounce  the  lessons  prepared. 
Sometimes  they  would  be  commended,  but  occasionally  a  stern  rebuke  would  be 
administered  to  the  teacher.  These  performances  would  often  last  all  day,  and 
the  attending  crowds  never  seemed  to  weary.  Great  progress  was  made  in 
those  schools,  through  much  and  long  toil  which  has  culminated  in  the  present 
universal  literacy  of  the  Hawaiian  people. 

THE  MISSION  HOME  IN  1831. 

My  earliest  memory  of  our  home  was  that  of  two  thatched  cottages,  set 
closely  side  by  side,  and  raised  upon  a  low  stone  platform.  One  was  thatched 
with  la-i,  the  other  with  pili-grass.  On  my  fourth  birthday,  in  February,  1831, 
my  father  led  me  a  few  rods  inland  to  see  the  stone  house  he  was  building. 
I  remember  the  awe  with  which  I  gazed  into  the  gloomy  depths  of  the  still 
open  cellar.  A  Mr.  Castle  was  the  carpenter.  Most  of  the  lumber  used  was 
koa,  from  the  forest  inland.  The  floors  were  of  wide  boards,  sawed  by  hand, 
under  Mr.  Castle's  superintendence.  He  afterwards  made  shingles  for  the 
house  out  of  the  same  timber,  although  it  was  at  first  thatched  with  la-i.  The 
shingled  roof  yielded  a  supply  of  rain-water  in  the  rainy  season.  The  house 
was  well  built  and  commodious,  with  three  rooms  in  each  story,  and  verandahs  on 
the  seaward  side.  There  was  also  an  ell  inland  containing  the  dining-room 
and  kitchen.  In  the  kitchen  was  a  brick  oven,  also  an  old  iron  stove  of 
antiquated  form.  In  the  fireplace  were  the  usual  equipments  of  crane  and 
pendent  hooks  for  kettles. 

SURF-RIDING  AT  KAILUA, 

Dr.  Andrews  succeeded  us  in  1837  in  the  occupancy  of  the  house.  In  1838, 
his  son  was  born  there.  Dr.  Geo.  P.  Andrews,  now  of  Honolulu.  Of  the  five 
years  spent  in  this  house  I  have  vivid  and  many  pleasant  recollections.     From 


18 

tho  upper  vonuulah,  my  older  sister  and  myself  often  v.atched  the  active 
gambols  of  the  crowd  of  natives  sliding  on  the  great  rollers  of  the  surf,  which 
wo  could  see  through  the  stems  of  a  grove  of  cocoanut  trees.  That  now  nearly 
forgotten  sport  was  then  in  its  fullest  activity.  In  the  absence  of  horses,  eques- 
trian sport  had  not  displaced  it.  Each  one  swam  out  with  the  light  surf  board 
under  the  arm,  diving  under  the  incoming  combing  rollers.  Beaching  the  point 
where  the  waves  began  to  comb  over  they  adjusted  themselves  adroitly  on  the 
front  of  the  wave  in  a  prostrate  position  on  the  board.  With  a  few  rapid 
strokes  of  the  hands  and  feet,  they  were  in  motion,  and  the  wave  itself  did  the 
rest,  shooting  them  forward.  The  sea  spurted  in  front  of  the  darting  board, 
while  the  surf  foamed  over  them  behind  as  they  slid  down  the  deep  hill  of  the 
wave,  which  ever  came  pushing  up  under  them.  It  required  great  skill  to  main- 
tain the  precise  position  on  the  slope  of  the  wave,  which  was  necessary,  and 
sometimes  a  less  practiced  one  would  be  overtaken  by  the  comber  and  left 
behind.  But  a  majority  of  the  performers  were  able  to  kneel  on  their  boards, 
and  many  of  them  to  stand  erect  after  getting  started. 

SURFING  AND   CANOES. 

This  was  a  universal  sport  of  the  chiefs  and  common  people  alike.  The 
ponderous  chiefs  had  very  large  boards  of  light  wood.  In  the  Bishop  Museum 
may  be  seen  today  an  immense  surf  board  of  the  cork-like  wili-wili  wood,  on 
which  the  famous  Paki  used  to  disport  himself  at  Lahaina  fifty  years  ago.  I 
doubt  whether  Kuakini,  with  his  500  pounds,  was  agile  enough  to  attempt  it. 
In  handling  canoes  the  natives  were  most  adroit.  Kona,  with  its  great  koa 
forests  inland  abounded  in  canoes.  There  were  no  boats.  The  people  were 
skilled  fishermen  and  often  went  many  miles  to  sea,  in  pursuit  of  the  larger 
deep-sea  fish.  A  name  given  to  Mt.  Hualalai  behind  us,  was  "Kilo-waa, "  or 
Canoe-descrier.  The  canoes  were  of  elaborate  form  and  smoothness.  Most  of 
them  were  single  canoes  with  outriggers.  Many  large  ones,  however,  were 
rigged  double,  six  or  eight  feet  apart,  with  a  high  platform  between  them. 
All  the  fastenings  were  of  carefully  plaited  sinnet  or  cocoanut  fiber,  the  lash- 
ings being  laid  with  great  care  and  skill.  The  mast  was  stepped  in  the  platform. 
The  common  people  had  mat  sails.    Those  of  Kuakini 's  canoes  were  of  sail-dvick. 

THE    THURSTON    HOME. 

I  think  it  was  a  year  later  than  ours,  that  Mr.  Thurston  built  his  wooden 
house  at  Laniakea,  a  quarter  mile  inland  and  perhaps  150  feet  higher.  It  was 
a  very  rocky,  arid  site.  The  walled  enclosures  must  have  occupied  two  acres. 
A  little  back  in  the  premises  was  a  lofty  pile  of  clinker  stones,  which  may  have 
been  natural,  or  perhaps  a  heiau  or  place  of  idol-worship.  Around  the  base  of 
this  pile  on  the  barren  rocks  grew  a  number  of  the  singular  pilo-pilo  plants 
very  luxuriant.  They  have  large  plumy  flowers  which  emitted  a  strong  odor 
like  prussie  acid.  The  fleshy  legume  was  on  the  end  of  the  long  pistil,  and 
could  be  pickled  as  a  caper.  During  the  shorter  moist  season,  the  common  weeds 
of  the  place  were  mustard,  and  a  thorny  poppy  with  a  large  white  flower. 
This  w^as  probably  introduced  from  Mexico  with  cattle.     Purslane  abounded.     A 


19 

common  weed  in  Kailua  was  the  no-hu,  which  we  bare-footed  children  held  in 
dread  on  account  of  its  large  seeds  with  four  sharp  prongs,  one  of  which  was 
always  in  a  vertical  position.  The  bright  yellow  flower  was  a  very  pretty  one; 
we  called  them  daisies,  and  the  running  plants  briars. 

Just  back  of  the  Thurston  house  was  a  deep  pit,  which  was  the  mouth  of 
an  immense  cave  extending  to  the  shore,  ending  in  a  pond  of  brackish  water 
at  sea-level.  We  occasionally  joined  a  party  of  visitors  in  exploration  of  this 
cave  with  lamps.  There  were  one  or  two  difficult  passages,  and  one  lofty  cham- 
ber, with  a  small  opening  above,  admitting  a  glimpse  of  light.  There  were 
many  stalactites  and  stalagmites  of  small  dimensions.  From  the  mouth  of  the 
cave  a  continuation  extended  inland,  but  the  entrance  of  this  was  blocked  by 
debris.  I  remember  a  visit  from  a  shipmaster  and  his  wife  who  started  to 
explore  the  cave.  The  lady  came  on  with  us,  but  the  brave  captain,  who  would 
coolly  rush  his  boat  on  a  whale,  dared  not  push  into  the  dread  darkness,  and 
retreated.  I  think  Mrs.  Thurston  kept  her  milk  pans  on  the  cool  mouth  of 
the  cave. 

THE   MISSION   DOMESTIC   ANIMALS. 

There  was  a  large  cow  pen,  of  great  interest  to  us  children,  with  its  calves, 
and  the  well  made  frames  to  hold  the  necks  of  the  cows  while  milked.  Their 
legs  were  tied  to  stancheons  to  prevent  kicking,  and  then  the  indispensable  calf 
was  applied  to  induce  the  cow  to  give  down  her  milk.  Two  quarts  per  cow  was 
considered  a  large  yield.  They  were  from  the  wild,  long-horned  Mexican  breed, 
which  can  be  handled  only  with  the  lasso  and  heavy  whip. 

A  very  large  black  boar  in  a  pen  was  also  an  object  of  interest  and  much 
fear.  He  may  have  been  of  some  improved  breed.  Most  of  the  native  pigs  were 
of  the  razor-back  species,  with  immense  heads  and  bristling  spines.  Their  dogs, 
which  were  their  meat  as  well  as  pigs,  were  of  small  size  with  upright  ears.  I 
never  saw,  except  in  a  picture,  a  dog  with  drooping  ears  until  perhaps  ten 
years  old.  Cats  we  kept  in  plenty.  An  old  black  puss  was  a  beloved  pet  who 
after  a  protracted  absence,  when  we  reached  home  came  running  and  jumped 
all  over  us.  Not  long  after  she  mysteriously  disappeared.  The  Thurston  cats 
were  yellow. 

On  the  road  between  our  house  and  the  Thurstons'  was  the  goat-pen  used 
by  both  families.  It  contained  a  large  flock,  which  were  driven  down  to  it 
every  afternoon  to  be  milked.  The  gambols  of  the  kids  were  entertaining.  In 
milking,  the  goat  was  laid  down  on  her  side.  A  little  to  the  north  of  the  road 
was  a  well  some  sixty  feet  deep,  which  the  missionaries  had  dug  through  the 
lava  many  years  before,  but  the  water  found  was  brackish.  Nearer  the  shore  the 
road  led  past  some  caves,  or  rather  lava-bubbles,  which  were  of  sufiicient  area  to 
form  convenient  places  for  beating  tapa.  The  mallets  were  generally  ham- 
mering away. 

LIFE    OP   THE    MISSION    CHILDREN. 

I  have  delightful  recollections  of  our  intercourse  with  the  Thurston  chil- 
dren.    There   were  three,  Persis,  Lucy  and   Asa.     Later   were  born  Mary  and 


20 

Thomas.  Porsis  is  the  only  survivor,  now  the  venerable  Mrs.  Taylor  in  her 
eightieth  year,  who  has  had  great  experience  of  social  and  religious  activity. 
Lucy  was  a  girl  of  the  sweetest  amiability  who  died  in  New  York  City,  February 
24,  1841.  Asa  was  nearly  my  own  age,  a  boy  of  great  activity  and  a  pleasant 
playmate.  After  graduating  from  Williams  College  he  married  in  Honolulu 
and  left  one  son,  the  distinguished  Lorrin  A.  Thurston.  Both  of  the  families 
were  under  very  careful  and  systematic  discipline.  Once  a  week  on  Wednes- 
days was  a  holiday  afternoon  when  the  five  children  played  at  each  house  on 
alternate  weeks,  and  at  5  o'clock  attended  a  half-hour's  English  prayer  meeting, 
after  our  elders  had  been  to  the  native  prayer-meetings.  The  religious  instruc- 
tion at  both  houses  was  very  thorough;  we  were  all  very  familiar  with  the 
bible  and  a  great  deal  of  religious  exhortation  was  addressed  to  us,  perhaps  not 
wholly  adapted  to  our  tender  minds.  Our  parents  deligently  did  their  duty 
according  to  their  old-fashioned  Calvinistic  lights. 

CHILDREN  DID  NOT   LEARN   HAWAIIAN. 

We  children  were  not  permitted  to  learn  any  of  the  native  tongue  until 
later  years.  The  reason  of  this  was  to  prevent  mental  contamination.  There 
was  no  reserve  whatever  upon  any  subject  in  the  presence  of  children  in  the 
social  and  domestic  conversation  of  the  native  people.  The  vilest  topics  were 
freely  discussed  in  their  presence  and  the  children  grew  up  in  an  atmosphere 
of  the  grossest  impurity.  The  same  strict  tabu  was  enforced  in  nearly  all  the 
mission  families.  It  grew  out  of  very  unhappy  experiences  in  the  families  of 
the  early  missionaries  in  the  Society  Islands,  a  visiting  deputation  from  whom 
had  earnestly  exhorted  our  younger  missionaries  strictly  to  keep  their  children 
apart  from  the  natives.  I  remember  that  when  I  first  attended  a  public  school  in 
Bochester  at  the  age  of  thirteen,  I  was  confounded  by  the  prevalent  grossness  of 
speech  among  the  boys,  when  by  ourselves,  although  they  never  talked  so  before 
the  other  sex. 

LITERARY  INSTRUCTION  OF   CHILDREN. 

An  exceptional  feature  of  the  family  life  was  the  diligent  early  literary  in- 
struction of  the  children.  Both  of  the  mothers  were  able  teachers,  although  Mrs. 
Thurston  was  disabled  by  maternity  and  some  serious  ill  health  from  engaging 
actively,  as  Mrs.  Bishop  did,  in  teaching  the  native  schools.  The  children  of 
the  latter  were  thoroughly  teught.  There  was  some  concert  between  the  two 
families,  and  a  degree  of  rivalry.  Before  leaving  Kailua  at  the  age  of  nine,  I 
had  been  carried  with  the  other  four  children  through  all  the  arithmetic  I  ever 
learned  and  into  elementary  algebra.  We  had  also  all  gone  through  Blake's 
Natural  Philosophy,  a  very  good  elementary  book  on  physics,  for  which  I  had 
an  especial  turn.  We  had  made  some  progress  in  easy  Latin.  My  sister  and 
myself  in  the  old-fashioned  way,  had  "passed"  through  the  whole  of  Pollok's 
"Course  of  Time."  We  were  all  adepts  in  spelling.  There  was  some  botany 
and  some  exercise  in  drawing.  Altogether  it  was  quite  a  little  university. 
Books  were  scarce,  and  were  daily  exchanged  between  the  two  families.  Asa 
brought  down  the  package  of  books  from  the  hill  and  I  trotted  back  with  them. 


■er  TP!rW'l!:W'PPPPPP!?^'¥''!Pl!:WW'PI^W¥^^^  ^ 


S.    E.    BISIIOI'    IX    1851 
(Prom     a     DiiKUi'n-i'otyiJe) 


CORNELIA    A.     SESSIONS    IN     1851, 

MARRIED   S.   E.   BISHOP  IN   ]85'2. 

(Prom    a    Daguerreotype) 


21 

STUDYING    UNDER    DIFFICULTIES. 

Our  mother  always  went  to  lier  large  native  school  at  9  a.  m.,  and  finished 
teaching  her  own  children  before  that  hour.  Latterly  we  had  to  rise  at  four 
o'clock,  and  work  an  hour  with  slate  and  pencil  on  the  arithmetical  problems 
of  "Colburn's  Sequel,"  in  which  we  delighted.  We  had  one  tin  whale-oil  lamp 
between  us,  with  a  single  wick.  Both  of  us  became  near-sighted,  but  otherwise 
had  sound  eyes.  Soon  after  five  we  had  breakfast.  Our  stepmother  was  a 
notable  worker.  Before  four  o'clock  her  voice  would  be  heard  calling,  "Mr.  B., 
I  think  it's  past  four.  Look  at  your  watch!"  Mr.  B.  would  open  his  tinder- 
box,  seize  steel  and  flint,  deftly  strike  a  light,  and  perhaps  pronounce  it  half- 
past  three.  He  himself  rose  at  five.  I  saw  my  first  "lucifer"  matches  in  1838. 
Mr.  B.  split  and  dipped  his  own  sulphur  matches,  and  burnt  his  own  tinder. 
The  natives  produced  fire  by  swiftly  rubbing  a  hard  pointed  stick  into  a  groove 
in  soft  dry  wood.     They  also  used  an  old  file  with  a  gun  flint. 

For  some  reason  I  was  once  sent  up  the  hill  with  the  books  at  an  unusual 
hour  before  daylight.  I  found  the  three  Thurstons  at  their  lessons,  seated  at  a 
table  built  around  a  post  in  the  center  of  the  sitting  room.  They  were  using 
a  tallow  candle,  which  was  a  novelty  to  me.  Each  one  was  enveloped  in  a  large 
tapa,  after  the  manner  of  the  natives  in  cool  weather.  Tapa,  like  newspaper, 
was  a  good  defense  against  cold,  whether  as  blanket  or  wrapper.  Its  defect  was 
inability  to  resist  moisture.  We  had  few  toys.  There  were  cask-hoops  to 
drive  w'ith  a  stick,  small  kites,  also  little  bows  and  arrows.  We  had  jack, 
knives  and  learned  to  whittle.     My  knife  I  was  prone  to  lose. 

SUNDAY    REGIME. 

Sunday  was  a  very  solemn  day.  We  were  all  rigged  in  our  best,  and  went 
to  church  at  9  a.  m.  There  was  Sunday  school  for  an  hour.  During  the  last  few 
months  at  Kailua,  I  was  promoted  to  the  function  of  teaching  a  class  of  natives, 
to  the  extent  of  hearing  them  each  recite  a  number  of  verses  which  they  had 
memorized.  There  was  always  a  large  congregation  in  the  immense  church. 
Knowing  no  Hawaiian,  we  white  children  came  provided  with  books  which  we 
diligently  read  during  the  sermon.  Mr.  Thurston  and  Mr.  Bishop  did  duty  in 
Kailua  on  alternate  Sabbaths,  the  other  one  walking  to  out-stations  a  few  miles 
distant.  On  the  quarterly  Communion  Sabbaths  they  officiated  together,  when 
there  were  usually  a  large  number  of  natives  baptized.  These  were  great  occa- 
sions. I  well  remember  the  impressive  appearance  of  the  two  stalwart  mis- 
sionaries walking  together  in  their  black  gowns  and  white  * '  bands. ' ' 

DESTRUCTION  AND  RECONSTRUCTION  OP  KAILUA  CHURCH, 
During  our  absence  at  general  meeting  in  Honolulu  in  1835,  the  great  church 
was  burned  by  some  incendiary,  and  the  services  were  then  conducted  in  a 
large  canoe-shed  of  the  Governor,  which  was  vacated  for  the  purpose.  There 
must  have  been  something  of  a  revival  of  religion  at  that  time,  as  an  unusual 
number  of  people  were  baptized,  and  some  of  them  were  weeping.  Some  young 
missionaries  had  recently  arrived,  fresh  from  Finney's  great  revivals,  among 
them  Titus  Coan  and  Lowell  Smith,  and  had  imparted  the  flame  to  their  older 
brethren.     The    energetic    Kuakini    immediately    set    about    building    the    great 


stone  church  now  standing  on  the  site  of  the  old  one.  AVe  did  not  remain  at 
Kailua  to  see  it  completed.  I  remember  that  the  corners  were  built  up  with 
large  square  blocks  of  pahoehoe  lava,  -which  were  transported  by  the  pople  from 
some  hoiau  at  a  distance.     They  were  smoothly  hewn,  evidently  with  great  labor. 

REVIV.\L  OP  HEATHENISM  BY  KALAKAUA. 
I  regret  to  record  that  about  in  1886,  King  Kalakaua  held  a  grand  political 
meeting  in  that  church,  and  caused  his  henchman  orator,  Kaunamano,  to  proclaim 
that  while  the  worship  of  Jehovah  was  proper,  Hawaiians  must  not  neglect  the 
worship  of  the  lesser  gods,  who  were  so  much  nearer,  and  exerted  so  much  power 
over  their  lives.  This  was  done  in  order  to  promote  sorcery  and  bring  the  nation 
into  political  subjection  to  the  king  himself  as  the  chief  sorcerer.  He  had  in  fact 
made  himself  a  god,  and  taught  the  people  to  pay  him  divine  honors.  The  sacri- 
lege of  that  idolatrous  proclamation  at  Kailua  was  the  greater  in  that  the  spot 
was  the  one  where  the  first  proclamation  of  Christ  in  Hawaii  had  been  made  in 
1S20  by  Bingham  and  Thurston. 

A'ISITS   TO    KAAWALOA. 

Our  nearest  missionary  neighbors  outside  of  the  town  of  Kailua  w-ere  the 
Ruggleses,  who  lived  at  Kaawaloa,  twelve  miles  south.  Their  dwelling  was  at 
Kuapehu,  two  miles  up  the  mountain,  a  most  verdant  and  attractive  spot.  It 
later  became  the  residence  of  Rev.  John  D.  Paris.  Kaawaloa  proper  was  a  vil- 
lage on  the  north  side  of  Kealakekua  Bay.  I  was  born  there  at  the  house  of 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Ely,  only  a  few  rods  from  the  rock  where  Captain  Cook  was 
slain  and  where  his  monument  now  stands.  We  often  visited  Kaawaloa,  prob- 
ably twice  a  year,  going  by  water  in  a  double  canoe,  generally  starting  two  or 
three  hours  before  daylight,  so  as  to  carry  the  land  breeze  a  good  part  of  the 
way.  There  were  a  number  of  paddlers  in  each  of  the  two  canoes,  who  would 
make  the  long  craft  fly  swiftly  through  the  sea.  The  steersman  in  the  stern 
would  give  the  signal  by  a  slap  of  his  paddle  against  the  canoe,  and  all  the 
rowers  would  shift  their  paddles  in  unison  from  one  side  to  the  other. 

"We  children  generally  laid  upon  the  raised  platform  with  the  mother,  though 
sometimes  in  the  bottom  of  a  canoe.  We  were  apt  to  be  seasick,  and  then 
go  to  sleep,  sometimes  awaking  to  see  the  waves  dashing  on  a  coast  of  black 
lava  cliffs.  We  would  run  up  the  little  bay  and  step  ashore  upon  Cooke's  rock, 
whence  it  was  only  a  few  rods  to  the  nice  premises  of  the  good  Princess  Kapio- 
lani.  These  were  prettily  thatched  cottages  on  a  platform  of  white  masonry 
which  was  studded  with  black  pebbles.  Kapiolani's  quarters  were  neatly  fur- 
nished within.  She  was  generally  there  to  receive  us  with  the  most  cordial 
hospitality.  Immediately  behind  the  house  was  a  precipice  perhaps  two  hun- 
dred feet  high.  This  seems  to  have  been  caused  by  a  former  breaking  off  of  the 
coast  line  for  many  miles.  Great  lava  flows  had  subsequently  poured  over  the 
precipice  to  the  north  and  south,  so  as  to  enclose  the  bay,  leaving  half  a  mile 
of  the  precipice  at  the  head  of  the  bay  untouched. 


.  23 

THE  RUGGLES  FAMILY  AND  HOME. 

The  next  tMng  was  to  surmount  the  formidable  pali.  There  were  plenty 
of  natives  to  carry  up  the  lady  and  children  in  the  lack  of  animals.  From  the 
summit,  two  miles  of  slope  brought  us  to  the  delightful  home  of  the  Ruggleses, 
where  we  were  again  lovingly  welcomed.  Mrs.  Ruggles  was  a  tall,  sweet-faced 
woman  of  kindliest  character.  Mr.  Ruggles  was  a  pleasant  man  of  small  stat- 
ure, who  was  often  absent  from  home  touring  among  the  natives,  his  health 
requiring  such  activity.  There  was  a  luxuriant  garden,  with  luscious  grapes  and 
figs  and  coffee  trees  in  fruit.  There  were  also  orange  trees,  and  in  the  vicinity 
many  old  ohia  trees  with  the  ripe  apples  bestudding  their  gnarled  trunks.  The 
mission  dwelling  was  a  large  thatched  house,  with  several  glass  windows.  A 
matter  of  special  delight  was  the  company  of  two  very  agreeable  children  of 
our  own  ages,  named  Huldah  and  Samuel,  of  whom  we  were  always  very  fond. 

HOW  FAST  DAYS  WERE  KEPT. 

The  Euggles  family  returned  to  America  about  1834,  and  we  saw  no  more 
of  them.  Mr.  Ruggles  had  done  good  service  as  a  teacher  and  preacher  for 
fourteen  years.  Their  places  were  taken  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cochran  Forbes, 
four  of  whose  grandchildren  now  reside  in  Honolulu.  Mr.  Forbes  was  a  forceful 
and  zealous  missionary.  There  are  memories  of  pleasant  visits  with  them  also, 
both  at  Kuapehu  and  at  Kailua.  On  one  occasion  a  fast  day  is  remembered, 
such  as  we  observed  at  Kailua  four  times  a  year  by  omitting  the  noon  meal. 
The  Forbes  were  more  rigid,  and  no  breakfast  was  served.  Discovering  this, 
Mrs.  Bishop  made  for  the  safe,  and  seizing  some  cold  chicken  and  taro,  enabled 
her  hungry  family  to  break  their  fast.  She  was  always  to  be  relied  on  in  the 
commissariat. 

VISIT  TO  WAIMEA  IN   1832. 

We  once  extended  our  visiting  to  the  inland  elevated  station  of  Waimea, 
in  the  beginning  of  1832,  Mr.  Bishop  being  delegated  to  initiate  Rev.  Dwight 
Baldwin,  M.  D.,  in  his  new  field.  We  traveled  to  Kawaihae  by  canoe,  meeting 
the  Baldwins  at  the  house  of  Mr.  John  Young,  the  aged  lieutenant  of  Kame- 
hameha.  The  ladies  and  children  were  carried  up  the  hill  for  ten  miles  by 
natives  in  maneles.  I  particularly  recollect  the  feeble  appearance  of  Mrs. 
Baldwin  with  her  young  babe  as  her  bearers  passed  us  on  the  road.  In  due 
time  we  reached  the  Waimea  plateau,  at  that  time  covered  with  dense  scrub 
forest  for  some  miles  west  of  the  mission  station.  We  found  two  good-sized 
cottages,  of  which  each  family  took  possession.  There  must  have  been  some 
hardship  from  lack  of  crockery  and  furniture.  We  had  an  old  iron  stove  which 
helped  keep  us  warm  in  the  cold,  rainy  mountain  winter.  There  was  also  a 
large  fire  occasionally  lighted  in  the  center  of  the  main  room,  whence  the  smoke 
must  have  escaped  through  the  roof.  I  think  we  children  quite  enjoyed  the 
novel  experiences.  The  Baldwins,  being  new-comers,  must  have  found  it  very 
hard.  On  one  occasion  the  two  missionaries  were  absent  for  several  days  on  a 
visit  to  the  people  of  Kohala.  That  must  have  been  a  dreary  time  for  the 
young  wife. 


24 

RECOLLECTIONS   OF   WAIMEA   AND    OF    MR.   LYONS. 

For  the  Bishops,  the  coolness  brought  recuperation  and  health  after  the 
heat  of  Kailua.  On  one  morning  we  were  told  that  "frost"  had  been  seen  on 
the  grass  just  before  sunrise.  With  snow  mantling  Mauna  Kea  nearly  to  its 
base  on  the  Waimea  plain  as  it  sometimes  did,  a  strong  southerly  breeze  might 
have  chilled  our  locality  to  that  degree.  We  burned  a  good  deal  of  wood,  mostly 
the  yellow  ahakea,  or  "false  sandalwood,"  which  emitted  a  pleasant  odor.  Our 
altitude  was  nearly  2700  feet.  Several  rounded,  green  hills  lay  to  the  north  of 
us,  which  must  have  been  tufF-cones,  the  relics  of  former  explosive  eruptions. 

We  made  another  visit  to  Waimea  in  183G,  shortly  before  removing  to 
Oahu.  The  Eev.  Lorenzo  Lyons  was  then  occupying  the  station,  having  been 
there  over  three  years.  The  infant  Curtis  was  running  about  the  house.  This 
was  a  building  of  thatch,  but  with  a  foreign  style  of  frame,  with,  four  rooms. 

JOHN  YOUNG  AND  HIS  FAMILY. 

On  the  route,  at  Kawaihae,  we  had  again  enjoyed  the  hospitality  of  the 
aged  Mr.  Young,  who  is  very  bald.  I  remember  several  fine-looking  young 
women,  his  daughters.  A  coffin  was  suspended  under  the  ridge  of  the  house. 
It  was  the  old  chief's  habit,  whenever  he  went  to  Honolulu,  to  provide  him- 
self with  a  new  coffin,  in  order  to  be  so  far  in  readiness  for  the  change  which 
was  approaching.  I  trust  that  he  was  otherwise  not  unprepared.  A  still  con- 
spicuous object  at  Kawaihae  was  the  great  Heiau  of  Puukohala,  built  by  Kame- 
hameha  in  1791,  and  consecrated  to  his  war-god  by  the  sacrifice  therein  of  the 
corpse  of  his  rival,  Keoua.  John  Young  had  been  captured  in  1790.  Vancouver 
first  came  two  years  later,  forty  years  before  my  first  sight  of  those'  arid  hills 
and  the  mighty  Mauna  Kea  behind  them. 

A   SOJOURN  WITH  THE   LYONS. 

This  second  visit  was  made  en  route  to  Hilo  and  the  volcano,  via  the 
mountain  road  to  Laupahoehoe.  The  lady  and  children  were  provided  with 
maneles,  or  litters,  borne  by  natives,  who  were  paid  in  trade  and  food.  We  had 
gone  a  few  miles,  when  by  an  accident  the  writer's  arm  sustained  compound 
fracture,  which  caused  a  return  to  Mr.  Lyons 's  house  and  further  burden  of 
four  weeks  upon  their  extremely  cordial  hospitality.  There  were  hardly  any 
children's  books,  but  I  devoured  a  considerable  part  of  Eollins'  Ancient  His- 
tory while  the  bone  was  knitting,  and  formed  a  strong  attachment  for  both 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lyons,  who  were  most  amiable  as  well  as  devoted  and  capable 
missionaries.  Mrs.  Lyons  died  at  Honolulu  in  the  summer  of  1837,  amid  the 
profound  grief  of  the  assembled  missionaries. 

CAMPING   ON  MAUNA   KEA. 

Starting  again,  we  camped  for  the  night  on  a  splendid  slope  of  Mauna 
Kea,  amid  lovely  koa  glades,  and  groups  of  wild  cattle.  A  long  open  hut  was 
constructed  for  our  large  party,  in  front  of  which  an  immense  fire  was  built  for 
warmth.  Fresh  beef  had  been  procured  from  the  Paniolos,  and  abundant  steaks 
were  broiled  on  the  coals.     It  was  a  delightful  experience.     From  Laupahoehoe, 


25 

then  a  populous  village,  we  proceeded  by  water  in  a  double  canoe,  in  which 
we  were  caught  in  a  slight  squall  midway  under  the  high  palis,  and  the  sail 
carried  away,  to  the  terror  of  the  lady  passenger  and  the  children. 

AT    HILO    AND    THE   VOLCANO    IN    1836. 

At  beautiful  Hilo  we  were  entertained  for  a  week  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Coan,  the 
Lymans  contributing  thereto.  Another  week  was  spent  in  going  to  Kilauea, 
where  we  passed  two  night  in  a  rain-storm  in  a  leaky  shanty,  which  our  natives 
had  imperfectly  patched  up.  Before  light  on  the  third  day  we  were  awaked,  and 
from  the  brink  of  the  descent  watched  the  brilliant  fires  below.  At  daylight 
we  descended  to  the  "black  ledge,"  on  which  we  went  out  half  a  mile,  and 
looked  down  into  an  immense  elongated  chasm  where  seemed  to  be  great  ac- 
tivity. The  features  of  the  volcano  I  at  once  recognized  as  those  familiar  in 
Ellis'  picture  made  twelve  years  earlier.  Those  features  had  mostly  become 
oblitrated  at  my  next  visit  in  1857.  The  crater  had  then  much  filled  up,  and 
the  fires  had  been  transferred  over  a  mile  south  to  Halemaumau. 

We  were  off  for  Hilo  before  noon.  Most  of  the  road  between  Kilauea  and 
Olaa  had  been  handsomely  corduroyed  over  the  Pahoehoe  with  the  trunks  of 
tree  ferns,  which  made  progress  rapid  down  hill.  The  then  large  population 
caused  much  travel  between  Hilo  and  Kau.  We  had  set  our  faces  homeward, 
taking  the  Hamakua  coast  and  Waipio  valley  on  our  route.  The  strongest  im- 
pression on  the  juvenile  mind  was  that  of  the  ocean  viewed  from  the  lofty 
pali,  and  the  mighty  walls  of  the  great  valley,  with  its  immense  waterfall. 

MISSIONARY    VISITS    TO    KAILUA. 

Some  mention  should  be  interesting  of  memories  of  visits  at  Kailua  from 
various  missionaries.  Such  visits  were  always  delightful  to  us.  Yet  the  ladies 
and  sometimes  the  children  were  apt  to  be  landed  from  their  schooners  in  sad 
plight,  after  the  hardships  of  the  voyage.  I  remember  two  fair  young  women 
being  brought  in  in  fainting  condition  in  the  litters  which  they  had  occupied 
on  the  deck  of  the  vessel.  These  were  Mrs.  Dr.  Chapin  and  Mrs.  Ephraim 
Spaulding.  The  Spauldings  made  us  a  long  visit,  during  which  I  formed  an 
intense  childish  attachment  to  Mr.  Spaulding,  who  was  a  sweet  and  devout 
man.  An  earlier  visit  is  recalled  made  by  the  Bingham  family  about  1833. 
Most  of  their  time  was  spent  on  the  upland  above  us.  Mrs.  Bingham  was 
much  of  an  invalid.  Father  Bingham  was  a  somewhat  stately,  courteous  gen- 
tleman, for  whom  I  had  much  liking  and  a  little  fear.  The  Baldwins  re- 
peatedly visited  us  from  Waimea.  Dr.  Baldwin  we  all  liked.  He  was  person- 
ally active,  even  breaking  into  a  run,  something  rarely  seen  in  grown  men  in 
Kailua.  My  childish  impressions  of  all  these  friends  was  wholly  favorable, 
accompanied  by  the  utmost  reverence  for  their  spirituality  and  devoutness. 

VIVID    MEMORIES    OP    AN   EX-QUEEN. 

Very  prominent  in  these  recollections,  is  an  aged  native  lady  named  Keku- 
puohe.  She  must  have  been  about  7.5  years  of  age  and  still  vigorous.  She  lived 
about  half  way  from  our  house  to  the  church,  in  premises  of  a  superior  sort, 


26 

befitting  her  rank.  She  hud  been  a  youthful  wife  of  the  elderly  King  Kalani- 
opuu.  or  Terreoboo  as  Captain  Cook  called  him.  She  was  by  her  royal  husband 's 
side,  when  Captain  Cook  was  trying  to  lead  him  to  his  boat,  and  saw  the  great 
navigator  slain.  Kekupuohe  had  a  strong  but  rather  pleasant  face  covered  with 
fine  wrinkles,  of  lighter  complexion  than  most  of  the  people.  Her  short,  thick 
white  hair  bristled  densely  around  her  forehead,  so  as  vividly  to  appear  in  my 
memory  today.  She  had  a  husband  of  inferior  rank,  a  large  fat  man  much  her 
junior,  of  whom  I  remember  chiefly  his  remarkable  skill  in  expectorating,  mak- 
ing shots  with  great  accuracy  at  some  yards  distance  through  the  door.  The  old 
lady,  being  royal,  guarded  herself  from  sorcery  by  the  use  of  a  spittoon. 

THE    NATIVE   VERSION    OP   COOK'S   DEATH. 

Being  ignorant  of  the  language,  I  heard  nothing  directly  of  her  story.  My 
father  often  spoke  of  the  circumstances  of  Cook's  death,  as  he  had  gathered  them 
from  many  different  eye  witnesses.  Their  testimony  all  concurred  in  imputing 
it  to  a  momentary  rage  provoked  by  Cook's  extreme  violence  and  injustice. 
They  had  universally  believed  him  to  be  an  incarnation  of  the  great  god  Lono, 
had  dedicated  to  him  their  best  heiau,  and  had  there  offered  to  him  solemn 
sacrifices  of  baked  pigs,  which  he  seemed  to  understand  and  accept.  But  they 
had  become  much  incensed  by  his  removing  the  palisades  of  the  sacred  heiau  to 
his  ship  for  firewood.  A  boat  had  consequently  been  stolen  from  his  ship  and 
broken  up.  Cook,  greatly  enraged,  embargoed  the  bay  with  patrol  boats,  and 
attempted  to  seize  the  king  and  hold  him  as  a  hostage.  Just  as  he  was  leading 
the  king  towards  the  boat,  the  news  arrived  that  a  high  chief  had  been  shot 
while  crossing  the  bay.  The  frenzied  people  immediately  slew  the  great  Dis- 
coverer, who  was  really  the  victim  of  his  own  madness. 

RECOLLECTIONS   OF   SOME   OF   THE    CHIEFS. 

Another  prominent  native  was  Naihe,  the  husband  of  Kapiolani,  who  lived 
at  Kaawaloa.  Like  Kuakini,  and  Hopu,  he  always  appeared  in  our  presence,  in 
pants    and    a    jacket. 

Naihe  appears  in  Hawaiian  history  as  an  orator,  and  spokesman  for  the  king 
and  chiefs.  I  never  knew  of  him  in  that  capacity.  He  was  a  rather  aged  man 
of  spare  form  and  ordinary  height,  and  of  considerable  quiet  dignity.  Kona  dis- 
trict was  the  residence  of  quite  a  number  of  chiefs  of  inferior  rank,  who  were 
supported  by  the  labor  of  their  many  serfs  from  the  produce  of  the  rich  uplands. 
Occasionally  a  chair  or  a  camphor  trunk  might  be  seen  in  the  nice  thatched  cot- 
tages of  such  natives  of  rank,  besides  the  mats,  tapas,  calabashes,  and  wooden 
bowls  and  trays  which  constituted  their  furniture.  Cloth  of  any  kind  was  scarce. 
Kuakini  was  disposed  to  monopolize  such  trade  as  came  from  occasional  whalers 
touching  at  Kaawaloa.  He  possessed  large  quantities  of  foreign  goods  stored 
up  in  his  warehouses,  while  his  people  went  naked.  I  often  heard  my  father 
tell  of  once  seeing  one  of  Kuakini 's  large  double  canoes  loaded  deep  with  bales 
of  broad  cloths  and  Chinese  silks  and  satins  which  had  become  damaged  by  long 
storage.  They  were  carried  out  and  dumped  into  the  ocean.  Probably  they  had 
been  purchased  by  the  stalwart  Governor  with  the  sandalwood  which,  in  the 
twenties  was  suchi  a  mine  of  wealth  to  the  chiefs,  but  soon  became  extirpated. 


27 


KUKUI    NUT    AND    STONE    LAMPS. 


My  recollection  is  that  very  few  of  the  people  in  those  early  days  possessed 
any  other  form  of  lamp  than  kukui  kernels  strung  upon  the  stiff  cocoanut  mid- 
ribs so  as  to  form  candles  about  twenty  inches  long.  These  were  held  in  the 
hand,  and  nut  after  nut  successively  knocked  off  as  it  became  burned  out.  I 
remember  at  our  night  embarkations  in  the  Governor's  canoes  near  his  house, 
that  we  were  lighted  by  torches  made  up  of  five  or  six  kukui  candles  wrapped 
together  in  lauhala  leaves,  and  burning  with  a  great  flare  and  smoke.  On  our 
journey  in  the  interior  of  Hawaii,  we  encountered  stone  lamps  which  were 
merely  a  small  hollowed  stone  containing  some  kind  of  grease  in  which  lay  a 
wick  of  twisted  tapa. 

HOW   FIRE   WAS  OBTAINED. 

The  people  commonly  procured  fire  by  friction  of  wood,  although  some  of 
them  had  old  files,  from  which  they  elicited  sparks  by  strokes  from  a  gun-flint. 
It  was  common  to  carry  fire  in  a  slow-burning  tapa-match,  especially  when  they 
wanted  to  smoke.  I  first  saw  fire  obtained  from  wood  at  our  camp  on  Mauna 
Kea.  A  long  dry  stick  of  soft  hau  or  linden  wood  was  used.  A  small  stiff 
splinter  of  very  hard  wood  was  held  in  the  right  hand,  and  the  point  rubbed 
with  great  force  and  swiftness  in  a  deep  groove  formed  in  the  soft  wood  by  the 
friction.  A  brown  powder  soon  appeared  in  the  end  of  the  groove,  began  to 
smoke  and  ignited.  This  was  deftly  caught  into  a  little  nest  of  dry  fibre  and 
gently  blown  into  a  flame,  which  soon  grew  into  an  immense  camp-fire. 

STONE  AND  STEEL  TOOLS. 

Iron  implements  were  not  very  abundant  at  that  time  among  the  people, 
although  the  neolithic  age  of  polished  stone  cutting  implements  had  ended 
soon  after  Cook  had  bought  "fathom"  hogs  for  a  knife  apiece  made  of  hoop- 
iron.  Large  numbers  of  the  natives  owned  little  adzes  formed  of  a  bent  steel 
plane-iron  tightly  lashed  to  a  hard-wood  handle  composed  of  a  small  branch 
with  a  piece  of  the  tree-stem  attached  to  it.  With  these  sharp  edged  adzes  they 
would  deftly  dub  away  and  carve  out  almost  any  desired  smoothing  of  timber. 
Another  common  iron  implement  was  the  o-o,  or  dagger.  The  ancient  form  of  o-o, 
then  still  in  common  use  was  a  long  stick  of  hardwood  with  a  flattened  point, 
held  paddle-fashioned  by  the  squatting  laborer,  who  would  rapidly  clean  the 
ground  of  weeds  and  break  up  the  soil  two  or  three  inches  deep.  The  iron  o-o 
was  a  great  improvement,  being  a  thin  oval  blade-point  with  a  socket  into  which 
the  long  handle  was  inserted.  Even  this  was  far  behind  the  hoe,  with  which 
penetrating  blows  could  be  struck,  notwithstanding  Edwin  Markham's  melan- 
choly's lament.  The  "Man  with  the  Hoe"  had  many  centuries'  advantage 
over  the  kanaka  with  the  oh-oh-,  especially  the  wooden  one.  But  a  Hawaiian 
preferred  to  dig  on  his  haunches. 

AN   ANTI-MISSIONARY    FOREIGNER. 

There  was  a  white  blacksmith  named  Rice  located  in  Kailua,  who  must  have 
done  a  considerable  business  in  hammering  out   o-os      and   bending  plane-irons 


28 

for  the  natives,  ^[r.  Rico  was,  like  nearly  all  the  non-missionary  whites  of  those 
davs,  of  irregular  habits,  ami  naturally  hostile  to  the  missionaries,  whose  efforts 
tendered  to  restrict  immoralities.  Poor  Kice  suffered  in  his  own  family.  I  re- 
member to  have  heard,  without  understanding,  what  it  meant  that  Rice  had  a 
terrible  time  in  the  elopement  of  his  young  half-white  daughter.  He  vainly 
searched  for  her  on  the  premises  of  a  white  trader,  who,  as  he  soon  after  learned, 
had  her  headed  up  inside  of  a  cask  in  his  shed.  Such  an  escapade,  however, 
in  those  days  carried  with  it  no  loss  of  character  to  a  damsel  in  any  native  com- 
munity. Her  only  inconvenience  would  be  the  flogging  her  irate  white  parent 
administered.  We  were  all  greatly  pleased  to  hear  not  long  after  we  left  Kailua 
that  Mr.  Rice  had  become  converted  and  an  earnest  Christian  under  the  minis- 
trations of  Father  Thurston,  who  had  himself,  like  Dr.  Lyman  Beecher,  been  a 
blacksmith.  Doubtless  the  anvil  is  as  favorable  to  breeding  missionaries  as  was 
the  saw  and  plane  in  Nazareth,  or  the  net  at  Bathsaida. 

NATIVE  FISHING  METHODS. 

The  natives  by  the  way  wove  admirable  nets  from  the  splendid  olona  fibre, 
which  they  stained  dark  brown  with  kukui  juice.  The  sinkers  were  pebbles,  the 
floats  of  wiliwili  wood.  Much  fishing  was  accomplished  with  both  seine  and 
hook.  The  ancient  bone  hooks  had  disappeared.  Steel  fish  hooks  were  a  leading 
article  of  trade.  The  fishermen  very  commonly  preferred  a  peculiar  form  of 
hook  which  they  filed  out  themselves  from  large  needles;  it  was  without  barb, 
the  point  being  bent  to  one  side  and  curving  inward.  The  fisherman's  craft  was 
one  of  great  skill  and  special  knowledge.  Canoes  of  all  sizes  were  constantly 
seen  on  the  sea,  often  going  out  to  great  distances  on  the  usually  smooth  ocean 
that  vast  blue  Pacific. 

CHARGES  AGAIXST  THE   MISSIONARIES. 

That  Kailua  storekeeper  needs  further  notice.  He  was  agent  for  a  leading 
merchant  at  Honolulu.  When  my  father  was  building  his  house,  he  used  to  give 
his  workmen  written  orders  on  the  trader  for  goods.  Many  orders  read,  "Please 
give  so  and  so  five  (more  or  less)  glasses."  These  "glasses"  were  miserable 
little  shaving  mirrors  which  distorted  the  features,  sold  at  25  cents  each.  In 
the  following  year  1832,  came  back  from  Boston  the  grave  inquiry  what  meant 
this  charge  against  Mr.  Bishop  of  trading  with  the  natives  in  liquor,  as  verified 
by  these  written  orders  for  "glasses,"  which  the  Kailua  trader  had  forwarded 
as  evidence  along  with  other  accumulations  of  equally  strong  testimony  to 
missionary  hypocrisy,  which  a  Honolulu  syndicate  caused  to  be  published  in 
Boston! 

NO  CONSCIENCES  "WEST  OF  CAPE  HORN. 

Missionaries  were  far  more  obnoxious  in  those  days  than  "missionaries' 
sons"  are  now,  being  even  better  people  than  the  latter,  and  their  white 
opponents  a  rather  hard  set.  Nearly  every  half-white  youth  of  early  days  in 
Hawaii  was  brought  up  in  an  atmosphere  pervaded  with  the  most  violent  vilifi- 
cation of  missionaries,  and  these  continual  calumnies  were  a  frequent  theme  of 


^>  ■■•->^^>-^;j4 

j^  jS^ 

f^fl 

^^^^Hj^^'    M 

-f     "■■ 

bRB 

•r%^ 

THE   OLD   MISSION   HOUSE   AT    KAILUA,    BUILT   BY  REV.   A.   BISHOP   IX    1831,    THE 
HOME    OF    S.    E.    BISHOP    UNTIL    1836. 


THE    OLD    MISSION    HOUSE    AT    LAHAINA.      HOME    OF    S.    E.    BISHOP    FROM    1853 
TO    1862.      (From    a    Daguerreotype.) 


29 

discussion  in  tlie  missionary  homes.  A  newspaper  in  Honolulu  called  the  * '  Sand- 
wich Island  Gazette,"  teemed  with  absurd  charges  and  misconstructions  of  all 
kinds,  which  I  used  to  read  with  much  juvenile  indignation.  It  was  certainly  a 
great  hardship  for  those  poor  fellows  who  had  comfortably  "hung  up  their  con- 
sciences at  Cape  Horn,"  and  were  living  in  serene  satisfaction  after  the  heathen 
ethical  code,  to  have  these  perverse  missionaries  pick  their  consciences  off  from 
the  Horn,  bring  them  along  to  Hawaii,  wind  them  up  and  set  them  running.  One 
may  forgive  "the  boys"  for  displajnng  some  resentment  at  being  caused  to  feel 
what  sinners  they  were  making  of  themselves  among  the  kanakas.  The  two 
elements  could  not  come  into  contact  without  much  noisy  efferescence. 

Money  in  those  days  was  hardly  a  medium  of  exchange  among  the  natives, 
most  of  whom  were  not  familiar  with  the  appearance  of  coin. 

"What  coin  was  in  circulation  was  entirely  Spanish,  in  dollars,  quarters  and 
reals,  all  probably  coined  in  Spanish  America.  In  my  boyhood  I  never  saw  a 
British  or  United  States  coin  of  any  sort.  Gold  was  not  at  all  in  circulation.  I 
did  see  once  or  twice  a  Spanish  doubloon.  Our  purchases  from  the  natives  were 
paid  for  usually  with  school  books  and  slates,  but  sometimes  with  a  few  yards 
of  blue  or  white  cotton  cloth,  or  with  fish-hooks  or  horn  combs.  Labor  was  hired 
in  the  same  way. 

POVERTY  OP  THE  COMMON  PEOPLE. 

Up  to  1839  on  Oahu,  the  regular  wage  of  ordinary  labor  was  one  real  or 
$0,125  a  day,  usually  paid  by  orders  on  a  store.  There  was  great  poverty, 
although  provident  natives  in  good  seasons  generally  had  plenty  to  eat.  But 
and  one  who  had  a  good  supply  of  food,  would  at  once  be  visited  and  lived 
upon  by  all  his  kindred.  Thus  all  thrift  and  saving  was  discouraged  and  un- 
known. The  only  way  to  prosper  was  to  be  a  chief  with  a  good  tract  of  land 
and  a  body  of  retainers  or  serfs.  Nearly  all  except  the  chiefish  ones  were  serfs 
cultivating  small  allotments,  held  subject  to  the  will  of  their  masters.  The  mas- 
ters were  not  commonly  severe,  yet  there  was  much  cruel  oppression,  and  little 
sense  of  human  rights. 

AGRICULTURAL   CONDITIONS. 

Eecurring  to  the  use  of  agricultural  implements,  I  never  in  early  boyhood 
saw  a  plow  a  scythe,  or  a  sickle,  and  I  think,  not  a  spade  or  shovel.  My  im- 
pression is  that  although  the  soil  of  Kona  is  exceedingly  fertile,  no  plowing  is 
possible  on  account  of  rocks.  Most  of  the  lava  streams  which  entirely  covered 
the  land  were  of  the  a-a,  or  clinker  variety.  Holes  would  be  made  with  an  o-o 
Into  these  rough,  brittle  stone-heaps  and  a  slip  of  sweet  potato  vine  inserted, 
which  would  grow  luxuriantly.  Much  of  the  lava  had  undergone  sufficient  decay 
to  form  patches  of  very  rich  soil  in  which  taro,  sugar-cane,  and  bananas  grew 
luxuriantly.  There  were  many  breadfruit  trees  on  the  upland,  although  their 
fruit  did  not  constitute  any  large  part  of  the  people  's  food.  We  had  no  wheeled 
vehicles,  not  even  a  wheel-barrow.  During  our  last  year  at  Kailua  a  black  pony 
came  and  was  used  by  the  two  mission  families.  The  two  clergymen  rode  it  in 
turn  on  their  short  trips  to  preaching  stations,  and  the  ladies  jogged  along  occa- 
sionally on  a  side  saddle.    None  of  the  natives  in  those  days  had  horses,  except 


30 

the  princely  class  of  chiefs,  and  they  were  general!}-  carried  on  large  litters  by 
scores  of  human  bearers. 

CUSTOMS    OF   THE    CHIEFS. 

Objects  mucli  in  evidence  among  the  natives,  when  visiting  or  at  meetings 
as  well  as  in  their  homes  were  their  fans,  and  their  fly-brushes  or  kahilis.  The 
fans  were  made  from  the  ends  of  young  cocoanut  leaves.  The  broad  end  being 
elastic,  threw  the  air  far  more  efficiently  than  the  stiff  fans  now  commonly 
braided.  Get  an  old-fashioned  native  fan  for  comfortable  use.  Small  fly-brushes 
were  used  by  all  the  people.  They  were  about  four  feet  long,  the  upper  half 
of  the  stick  having  the  tail  feathers  of  fowls  tied  on.  The  kahilis  of  the  chiefs 
were  larger  and  more  elaborate.  The  long  handles  were  often  beautifully  en- 
cased with  tubes  and  rings  of  human  bone  and  whale-tooth,  also  turtle  shell,  all 
finely  polished.  A  high  chief  always  had  two  or  more  attendants  armed  with 
such  fly-brushes.  These  chiefs  were  often  unceremonious  in  their  visits.  At  some 
early  date,  before  my  birth,  my  mother's  little  sitting  room  was  once  invaded 
by  a  bevy  of  ladies  led  by  a  royal  dame,  all  fresh  from  their  sea-bath,  and  in 
nature's  array.  They  brought  their  garments  with  them,  and  proceeded  to  dress 
while  they  chatted  and  paid  the  compliments  of  the  day.  Those  were  the  good 
old  times. 

STYLES  OF  MISSIONARY  CLOTHING. 

Our  parents  were  simply  clothed  in  garments  of  light  material,  black  being 
mostly  reserved  for  Sunday.  I  think  their  cheaper  garments  were  nearly  all  cut 
and  sewed  by  their  wives,  and  could  not  have  been  very  stylish.  They  very  com- 
monly appeared  in  the  old-fashioned  short  jacket.  I  never  saw  a  frock-coat  at 
Kailua,  only  the  claw-hammer.  I  was  at  one  time,  about  1835,  much  impressed 
with  the  unbecoming  appearance  of  some  grey  cotton  coats  of  the  latter  denomi- 
nation which  the  two  missionaries  wore  for  some  time.  The  waists  were  very 
short  and  the  claw  hammers  extremely  scant. 

These  coats  with  vests  to  correspond  came  from  an  assortment  of  ready 
made  slops  sent  out  by  the  treasurer  of  the  American  Board  to  our  fiscal  agent, 
who  worked  them  off  on  the  poor  missionaries.  Mr.  Chamberlain's  own  com- 
ment upon  these  goods  was,  that  "much  of  this  clothing  did  not  appear  to  be 
adapted  to  the  human  form."  It  had  probably  been  supplied  in  Boston  by  some 
thrifty  contractor,  and  passed  without  due  inspection. 

DAILY   LIFE    OF    A    LADY    MISSIONARY. 

Mrs.  Bishop  was  an  extremely  active  and  efficient  lady.  Eising  at  four  a.  m., 
accomplishing  all  domestic  duties  and  schooling  her  children  before  nine  o'clock, 
she  went  at  that  hour  into  a  school  adjoining  our  premises,  and  taught  the  native 
children  for  six  solid  hours,  occasionally  running  into  the  house  to  see  that  all 
was  straight.  She  had  a  native  male  teacher  as  assistant.  Her  husband's  school 
work  was  mainly  superintendence  of  other  schools  in  the  town  and  outside.  A 
considerable  part  of  his  time  was  occupied  in  Bible  translation,  in  which  he  was 
aided  by  Gov.  Kuakini  and  other  leading  natives,  as  "pundits,"  or  experts  in 


31 

their  own  tongue.  Mrs.  Bishop  pretty  thoroughly  wore  herself  out  by  her  energetic 
labors,  which  caused  our  removal  in  1836  to  the  cooler  climate  of  Ewa,  Oahu, 
with  its  refreshing  trade  winds.  The  trades  never  reached  Kailua.  Those  cool 
breezes  banked  up  against  Mauna  Kea  and  Mauna  Loa  with  the  lofty  upland 
between  them.  Sometimes  a  trade  wind  of  extra  force  would  tear  over  the 
uplands  north  of  Hualalai,  and  was  called  a  "Mumuku, "  but  that  big  mountain 
effectually  sheltered  Kailua  from  such  rushing  gales.  We  knew  only  the  land 
and  sea  breezes,  with  an  occasional  Kona  or  westerly  storm  in  the  winter,  at- 
tended by  a  heavy  rain. 

"GENERAL    MEETINGS"    OF    THE    MISSION. 

Very  prominent  in  the  old  mission  life  were  our  annual  visits  to  Honolulu 
in  attendance  upon  what  was  called  the  "General  Meeting."  That  was  an 
annual  assembling  at  the  capital  of  all  the  missionary  families,  occupying  from 
four  to  six  weeks.  The  hospitality  of  the  missionaries  residing  at  Honolulu  was 
severely  taxed  in  entertaining  their  rural  associates.  Many  of  the  latter  fami- 
lies secured  native  cottages  and  kept  house  in  them.  Our  experiences  at  these 
times  were  varied  and  noteworthy.  Especially  so  were  the  voyages  to  Honolulu 
and  return.  In  these  days  of  rapid  transit  from  port  to  port  in  large  and  com- 
fortable steamers,  no  idea  can  be  gained  of  the  wretched  miseries  of  those  early 
and  protracted  voyages  in  small  schooners.  As  a  child's  experiences  I  recall 
them  as  among  the  severest  physical  sufferings  of  a  fairly  comfortable  life. 
They  must  have  been  much,  worse  to  the  lady  missionaries. 

INTER-ISLAND    TRANSPORTATION. 

As  the  time  of  General  Meeting  approached,  Mr.  Chamberlain  would  charter 
such  coasting  vessels  as  were  available  to  convey  the  missionaries  from  the  dif- 
ferent ports.  Nearly  all  those  vessels  were  small,  varying  from  thirty  to  fifty 
tons,  schooners  or  brigs.  They  were  mostly  owned  by  the  kings  or  chiefs,  and 
commanded  by  white  or  native  skippers  and  mates.  They  were  usually  in  very 
filthy  condition,  swarming  with  cockroaches  and  reeking  of  bilge  water.  We 
white  passengers  generally  occupied  the  decks,  on  which  our  mattresses  were 
spread,  but  had  to  dispute  our  scant  space  with  a  swarming  crowd  of  natives, 
with  their  calabashes  and  dogs.  The  cabins  were  extremely  narrow,  and  in- 
tolerable for  stench.  I  have  made  a  two-days '  passage  on  one  of  the  larger  of 
these  vessels  when  the  crowd  of  sitting  natives  was  so  dense  that  the  sailors 
could  pass  along  the  ship  only  by  walking  on  the  gunwales  of  the  bulwarks.  And 
many  of  these  people  were  constantly  smoking  the  very  coarse  tobacco  of  their 
OAvn  raising. 

THE    TRIP   TO   LAHAINA. 

Added  to  these  discomforts  was  the  usually  violent  seasickness  which  the 
former  aggravated.  Bometimes  the  winds  would  favor,  and  the  passage  be  com- 
paratively short,  only  two  or  three  days.  Usually  there  would  be  calms  and 
adverse  winds,  and  our  miseries  would  be  protracted  for  a  week,  more  or  less. 
The  native  skippers  would  be  indifferent  to  making  progress,  and  the  helmsman 
would  fall  asleep  at  his  tiller,  so  that  the  morning  would  find  us  farther  from 


32 

our  destination  than  the  night  before.  In  those  days  it  was  never  supposed  that 
a  vessel  could  beat  up  the  Molokai  channel  to  Lahaina.  That  passage  was 
always  made  around  Lanai,  occupying  an  average  of  three  days.  A  good  part 
of  two  days  and  nights  would  be  spent  in  getting  past  the  great  bluff  at  the 
southwest  point  of  Lanai.  That  dark  bluff  is  a  very  familiar  and  unpleasant 
memory  of  my  boj'hood.  Our  vessel  would  lose  the  light  sea-breeze  after,  per- 
haps sighting  I.ahaina,  when  the  prevailing  current  would  gently  sweep  us  back 
under  the  frowning  bluff,  to  linger  out  another  twenty-four  hours.  It  was  tire- 
some, with  a  broiling  sun  roasting  us  on  the  unsheltered  deck,  where  we  lay 
faint  with  nausea. 

A   PESTHOLE   CABIN. 

Once  I  remember  a  drenching  rain  coming  suddenly  upon  us  when  all  the 
passengers  hastily  tumbled  down  into  the  noisome  cabin.  The  floor  space  of 
this  pest-hole  was  about  eight  feet  by  six,  with  a  berth  on  each  side.  These 
spaces  were  filled  by  the  adults,  and  we  children  were  distributed  among  them. 
I  remember  lying  uneasily  across  the  limbs  of  Mrs.  Thurston,  who  counseled 
resignation,  as  she  practiced.  On  this  passage,  probably  in  1834,  I  think  that 
we  did  not  call  at  Lahaina,  but  passed  outside  of  Kahoolawe  on  to  Kailua. 
Generally,  there  was  another  delay  in  working  up  to  Kailua,  with  a  strong, 
adverse  current  thwarting  us  between  the  light  land-breeze  of  night,  and  sea- 
breeze  of  daj'.  The  meetings  were  in  May,  so  that  we  generally  escaped  all 
violent  winds,  and  seldom  shipped  a  sea.  But  the  swell  was  commonly  high, 
and  the  motion  of  the  little  craft  most  uneasy. 

CHIEFLY  ETIQUETTE. 

I  remember  at  one  embarkation  at  Kailua  observing  the  great  strength 
shown  by  Mr.  Thurston  as  he  tossed  mattresses  up  from  the  boat  to  the  deck, 
These  fathers  with  their  sick  wives  and  children,  had  no  time  to  indulge  them- 
selves in  feeling  ill.  Among  our  native  passengers  on  one  occasion  was  a  little 
child  of  high  rank,  attended  by  a  comely  maid  of  perhaps  thirteen.  The  child 
ordered  a  drink  of  water  which  the  maid  brought  in  the  slender  tin  cylindei: 
used  to  dip  the  water  through  the  bunghole  of  the  cask.  The  child  imperiously 
resented  such  a  container.  The  maid  then  distended  her  own  cheeks  with  the 
water,  and  applying  her  lips  to  the  child's  mouth  transferred  the  contents  to 
the  latter.  This  was  received  with  entire  satisfaction.  Doubhtless,  her  little 
highness  was  used  to  drink  in  no  other  way,  when  so  luxurious  a  beaker  was 
available. 

INTER-ISLAND    LIFE    AT    SEA. 

I  do  not  think  that  the  natives  suffered  from  seasickness  like  the  whites. 
Probably  their  habit  of  frequently  going  out  in  canoes,  and  perhaps  their  daily 
tossing  on  the  waves  in  bathing,  made  them  insensible  to  the  unrelenting  swing 
of  the  vessel.  They  seemed  to  enjoy  themselves  on  the  crowded  deck,  chatting, 
eating  and  smoking  their  horrible  tobacco.  To  us  the  odors  were  distressing. 
To  me,  especially,  the  smell  of  tar  became  so  identified  with  nausea  and  bilge 


33 

water,  that  in  sitting  in  the  Bethel  under  Chaplain  Diell's  preaching,  the  savor 
of  tar  from  the  neighboring  ship  yard  would  always  produce  nausea.  Only  a 
long  voyage  around  Cape  Horn  weaned  me  of  that  peculiar  aversion  to  tar,  and 
made  its  odor  not  unwelcome.  But  bilge  water  I  never  came  to  like,  especially 
that  of  a  sugar-carrier. 

THE    DELIGHTS    OF    LAHAINA. 

We  took  some  interest  in  the  land  scenery  of  the  voyage,  especially  in  the 
easier  descent  towards  Honolulu,  with  and  not  against  the  trades.  On  one  night 
when  well  outside  of  Kailua,  we  were  awakened  to  observe  a  strong  red  light 
over  the  summit  of  Mauna  Loa,  a  reflection  on  the  sky  from  some  glowing  lake 
or  fountain  in  Mokuaweoweo.  In  crossing  Hawaii  Channel,  the  broken  chasms 
of  lofty  Haleakala  seemed  wonderful  in  contrast  with  our  smooth  dome  of 
Hualalai.  Once  we  swept  rapidly  past  little  black  Molokini,  and  soon  raised  the 
strange  succession  of  mountain  pyramids  along  West  Maui,  landing  quickly  at 
Lahaina  with  its  rich  groves  of  breadfruit  and  cocoanuts.  Lahaina  always 
brought  us  warm  hospitality  from  the  family  of  Eev.  W.  Eichards,  who  was 
fellow-passenger  with  my  father  around  Cape  Horn  in  1823.  Many  things  com- 
bined to  make  Lahaina  a  delightful  stopping  place.  One  was  the  prevailing 
greenness  in  contrast  with  the  aridity  and  black  lavas  of  Kailua.  Another  was 
the  noble  grape  vines  hanging  around  the  substantial  stone  mission  house.  These 
would  be  loaded  with  ripe  fruit.  Maternal  prohibitions  failed  to  keep  our  crav- 
ing fingers  from  the  rich  clusters. 

REMINISCENCES  OP  THE  RICHARDS. 

But  the  most  interesting  thing  at  that  house  were  some  of  its  inmates. 
There  were  three  cheerful  boys  of  the  age  of  myself  and  Asa  Thurston,  named 
William,  Charles  and  James,  with  whom  we  had  glorious  times.  There  was  one 
memorable  night  when  we  five  boys  were  all  in  one  bed,  and  talked  to  a  late 
hour.  It  was  there  that  I  was  introduced  to  my  first  absorbing  knowledge  of 
real  juvenile  stories,  in  the  Youths'  Companion  of  sixty-five  years  ago.  I  still 
take  that  paper,  and  quarrel  with  my  grand-daughters  for  the  first  reading  of 
it.  The  seven  children  of  that  delightful  Richards'  house  long  ago  joined  their 
parents  in  the  better  land,  except  the  oldest  daughter,  now  residing  in  a  Boston 
suburb.  William  died  young  as  a  missionary  in  China.  Father  Richards  was 
a  very  influential  missionary,  and  left  a  strong  mark  upon  the  political  and 
educational  systems  of  Hawaii  before  his  premature  death  in  1847.  He  built  the 
first  stone  mission  house  in  the  Islands,  a  very  commodious  one,  in  which  all 
my  children  were  afterwards  born. 

THE  FIRST  STONE  CHURCH. 

Mr.  Richards  also,  in  conjunction  with  the  notable  Governor  Hoapili,  built 
the  first  stone  church  in  the  Islands  in  1831.  It  was  a  very  substantial  and 
commodious  structure,  which  I  remember  attending  before  the  rough  masonry 
had  received  any  coat  of  plaster.  The  new  galleries  were  crowded  with  people. 
We  walked  to  church  through  the  cocoanut  grove  north  of  the  edifice.    The  trees 


34 

woro  then  youn<j,  and  I  wondcrod  at  tho  nearness  of  the  great  fronds  and  the 
clusters  of  nuta  to  the  ground,  being  used  only  to  the  more  ancient  and  lofty 
trees  of  Kailua.  These  Hoapili  trees,  in  their  turn,  are  now  aged.  As  we  de- 
corously walked,  the  three  Richards  boys  solemnly  marched  abreast  in  front  of 
us.  There  were  no  other  missionaries  in  Lahaina,  except  Miss  Ogden,  a  nobly 
good  woman,  whoso  motherly  aid  greatly  supported  the  rather  feeble  Mrs. 
Richards.  Mr.  Spalding  and  Dr.  Chapin  came  there  in  18.32,  a  little  later. 
Probably  Rev.  Lorrin  Andrews  had  just  started  the  Seminary  at  Lahainaluna, 
of  which  I  had  charge  forty  years  later. 

REMINISCENCES   OF   KALAKUA. 

We  heard  much  of  Hoapili-wahine,  or  Kalakua,  but  I  do  not  remember  to 
have  seen  her.  She  was  of  royal  birth,  and  a  wife  of  Kamehameha,  to  whom  sh& 
bore  Kinau,  the  mother  of  Kamehameha  IV  and  Kamehameha  V.  She  was  a 
firm  and  devoted  Christian,  and  earnestly  sought  to  suppress  the  moral  dis- 
orders of  that  seaport.  She  and  Mr.  Richards  leaned  much  upon  each  other.  I 
have  heard  that  on  one  occasion  the  missionary  sought  to  relieve  the  old  queen 
by  bleeding,  but  was  unable  to  find  the  vein  in  the  mass  of  fat  enclosing  it. 
On  another  occasion,  he  asked  her  why  she  did  not  plant  cocoanuts  upon  an 
unoccupied  tract  at  the  north  end  of  the  town.  She  wanted  to  know  of  what 
use  they  would  ever  be  to  her  at  her  age.  "But  where  will  be  the  nius  of  your 
grandson.  Lot?"  (Kamehameha  V).  The  old  lady  instantly  dispatched  her 
schooner  to  Puna  for  a  cargo  of  the  nuts,  which  became  the  immense  grove  now 
bounding  Lahaina  on  the  north. 

LIFE   IX   OLD  HONOLULU. 

We  usually,  after  a  day  or  two  in  hospitable  Lahaina,  made  the  remaining 
run  to  Honolulu  in  a  night,  or  little  more,  with  the  fresh  trades  behind  us. 
This  town  was  not  then  an  attractive  place.  By  May  or  June  there  was  much 
heat  and  dust,  and  no  verdure  in  sight.  The  small  mission  herd  had  thoroughly 
depastured  the  plain  which  extended  unbroken  by  house  or  tree  to  Punahou, 
while  brown  Punchbowl  with  its  dry  slopes  frowned  darkly  above.  Mr.  Cham- 
berlain's great  oxen  stalked  slowly  about  with  skinny  ribs  and  projecting  hip 
bones.  There  are  still  two  buildings  standing  of  that  old  mission  colony.  One 
is  the  ancient  Bingham  home,  which  was  transported  around  the  Horn  in  1821. 
The  other  is  the  stone  Chamberlain  house,  still  retaining  its  antique  little  win- 
dows, and  surrounded  by  the  same  coral  walls.  The  garret  of  this  was  the 
"Depository,"  where  were  a  variety  of  goods  for  the  needs  of  the  missionaries. 
Mr.  Chamberlain  was  an  extremely  busy  and  rather  precise  person,  yet  cordial 
and  agreeable,  and  admirably  fitted  to  his  position.  Having  often  to  arbitrate 
between  contending  claims  of  the  sisters  to  the  scanty  supplies  of  necessary 
goods,  he  encountered  some  grumbling,  but  bore  it  patiently,  although  sometimes 
thought  to  be  rather  arbitrary.  I  recall  one  complaint  that  he  allowed  two 
barrels  of  flour  a  year  to  each  of  the  Honolulu  families,  while  the  rest  of  us 
got  only  one.  It  seemed,  on  the  whole,  however,  that  he  was  justified  by  the 
fact  that  the  former  households  had  to  entertain  much  more  company.     At  one 


35 

house,  the  printer  Sheppard's,  where  we  took  tea,  when  we  got  home  it  was 
remarked  as  a  w^aste  of  precious  flour,  that  hot  short  cake  was  the  chief  food 
served.    I  have  had  a  weakness  for  that  viand  ever  since. 

HONOLULU    "A   HARD    OLD    CAMP." 

These  reminiscences  seem  to  have  got  away  from  Kailua  to  Honolulu.  They 
seem  likely  to  continue  in  that  inviting  field.  Honolulu  was  a  hard-looking  old 
camp  in  those  days.  A  drawing  of  it  in  the  early  thirties,  afterwards  engraved 
at  Lahainaluna,  is  to  be  seen  in  the  Honolulu  Beading  Eoom.  It  gives  some 
notion  of  the  facts.  Most  of  the  dwellings  were  native  thatched  cottages,  chiefly 
I)ili-grass.  They  were  irregularly  scattered  in  enclosures  of  rotten  adobe  walls. 
One  main  street,  now  King  street,  of  good  width,  extended  from  the  present 
corners  of  South  and  Bethel  streets.  Quite  a  lane  followed  the  course  of  Mer- 
chant street.  Fort  and  Nuuanu  streets  had  no  existence.  There  was  a  lane  up 
Punchbowl  to  Beretania,  and  along  Beretania  to  Union.  A  number  of  other 
narrow  lanes  ran  here  and  there.  There  were  irregular  fragments  of  street  near 
the  waterfront  from  Fort  to  Nuuanu,  where  were  three  or  four  stores  of  traders, 
mostly  stone  or  adobe  structures  of  one  story. 

DREARY,    UNCOMFORTABLE    AND    UNSANITARY. 

There  were  scarcely  any  trees  in  the  town.  A  few  hau  trees  were  in  some 
premises.  About  1836,  Pride  of  India  appeared.  Occasionally  cocoanuts  and 
pandanus  were  seen.  The  only  drinking  water  was  drawn  from  the  shallow 
wells  dug  through  the  coral  to  tide  level.  Being  slightly  brackish,  it  was  dis- 
tasteful to  us,  who  were  used  to  mountain  water.  Probably  it  was  rather  insani- 
tary. The  mission  dooryards  were  nearly  devoid  of  veget-ation,  the  manienie,  or 
Bermuda  grass,  not  having  become  common.  Nothing  could  be  less  attractive  than 
the  general  aspect  of  the  town,  of  which  its  present  inhabitants  can  form  little 
idea.  Of  foreign-built  houses  there  were  few  in  1832,  when  my  definite  memory 
begins.  The  King  lived  chiefly  at  Lahaina,  but  had  a  house  on  the  Fort-wall 
here,  and  perhaps  near  the  present  Capitol.  Near  the  south  corner  of  that  en- 
closure was  a  fairly  good  stone  house  occupied  by  Auhea,  or  Kekauluohi,  the 
mother  of  the  late  King  Lunalilo.  A  dwelling-house  of  some  importance  was 
that  of  the  British  Consul,  Eiehard  Charlton,  later  occupied  by  his  successor, 
General  Miller,  which  stood  there  for  seventy  years,  adjacent  to  the  ex-queen's 
premises. 

CHARLTON— A  BETE  NOIR  TO  DECENT  PEOPLE. 

This  Charlton  was  a  conspicuous  person,  a  beefy,  red-faced  Britisher,  loud 
and  aggressive.  He  made  himself  much  feared  and  hated  by  nearly  all  classes 
of  the  population.  His  actions  are  largely  set  forth  in  the  histories  of  Bingham 
and  Jarvcs.  I  well  remember  him,  having  repeatedly  gone  with  my  mother  in 
her  calls  upon  Mrs.  Charlton  and  her  sister,  Mrs.  Taylor,  who  were  very  estimable 
English  ladies.  In  the  presence  of  the  ladies  Mr.  Charlton  laid  aside  his  violent 
deportment  and  aggressive  language.  He  was  notorious  as  a  reckless  falsifier 
of  truth.    He  was  a  man  of  loose  life  and  a  free  drinker.     There  was  probably 


36 

no  white  man  horo  more  obnoxious  to  the  missionaries  or  to  the  chiefs,  and  few 
persons  more  disreputable  in  public  and  private  life.  Charlton  was  bete  noir 
to  all  decent  or  quiet  people  in  Honolulu. 

CnURCn  SERVICES  IN  1838. 
Up  to  1838  there  was  only  one  church  edifice  in  Honolulu  except  the  Sea- 
men's Bethel,  which  was  built  in  1834  or  1835.  The  immense  thatched  native 
church  was  conspicuous  at  Kawaiahao,  standing  seaward  of  the  present  building, 
and  at  right  angles  to  it.  It  was  certainly  very  large.  I  have  some  very  defi- 
nite memories  of  church  attendance  there,  sitting  centrally  near  the  high  pulpit, 
where  Father  Bingham  presided  in  much  dignity.  He  was  animated  and  im- 
pressive in  address,  and  manifestly  of  weightiest  authority  with  his  congrega- 
tion. But  his  sermons  were  much  protracted,  and  many  of  the  natives  fell  asleep. 
The  audiences  were  large,  and  nearly  filled  the  great  length  of  the  building. 
The  pulpit  was  in  the  center  of  the  Waikiki  side,  near  by  were  two  or  three  old- 
fashioned  high  pews,  occupied  by  royal  chiefs,  and  a  few  settees  in  front.  The 
body  of  the  people  sat  on  mats  on  the  ground. 

INHARMONIOUS    SINGING. 

Well  in  front  was  quite  a  company  of  singers,  led  by  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Judd, 
among  whom  were  several  large  and  fleshy  women.  I  remember  thinking  that 
their  voices  were  inharmonious,  and  much  given  to  improper  slurring  of  the 
notes.  The  people  were  dressed  much  like  those  already  described  at  Kailua, 
and  with  little,  if  any,  more  array  of  clothing.  I  have  less  recollection  of  in- 
dividual chiefs  there  than  of  those  at  Kailua.  I  recall  having  once  been  con- 
ducted to  the  famous  Eegent  Kaahumanu,  at  her  house.  She  was  sitting  in  a 
large  chair,  on  a  dais,  probably  a  state  occasion,  and  seemed  like  a  great  per- 
sonage. Probably  not  many  weeks  later,  I  well  remember  seeing  her  on  her 
deathbed  in  Manoa  Valley.  It  was  night.  She  lay  in  a  dying  state  on  a  high 
pile  of  mats,  in  a  thatched  house,  with  many  people  around  her.  She  passed 
away  that  evening,  which  the  record  gives  as  June  5,  1832. 

A    MISSION    REINFORCEMENT. 

I  was  then  five  years  old,  and  retain  a  number  of  particulars  vividly  stamped 
on  memory.  One  of  these  was  in  the  Bingham's  parlor,  at  a  reception  of  the 
"new  missionaries,"  just  arrived  by  the  Avrick,  from  Boston.  Among  those 
young  recruits,  I  especially  recall  the  marked  features  of  the  Eev.  W.  P.  Alex- 
ander, who  was  sitting  on  the  Ewa  side  of  the  inner  door  of  the  parlor.  Among 
the  newcomers  were  the  Lymans,  Armstrongs,  Hitchcocks,  Forbeses,  Emersons 
and  others,  since  prominent  in  Hawaiian  annals.  The  long  years  have  lapsed, 
and  their  grandchildren  have  come  to  the  front,  with  many  of  their  little  ones, 
a  fourth  generation,  around  them.  That  was  a  reinforcement  to  the  mission  of 
exceptional  strength,  both  in  mental  ability  and  evangelistic  fervor.  Through 
several  of  those  young  men,  the  powerful  revival  work  of  Charles  G.  Finney  be- 
gan to  spread  its  high  spiritual  kindling  in  the  toiling  workers  in  Hawaii.  They 
gladly  responded  to  that  quickening  breath  which  cheered  and  inspired  them 
to  fresh  and  apostolic  fervor. 


37 

The  earliest  memory  whose  date  I  can  give  is  that  of  a  visit  with  my  father 
to  the  United  States  sloop  Vineennes,  in  November,  1829,  when  I  was  two  and  a 
half  years  old.  Eev,  Charles  Stewart  was  the  ship's  chaplain.  The  memory  is 
that  of  a  fearful  being  at  the  door  of  the  captain's  cabin,  an  armed  sentry; 
and  of  Messrs.  Stewart,  Bishop  and  Captain  Finch,  seated  near  a  large  round 
table  laughingly  soothing  the  terrified  child.  Stewart's  books  are  the  most  in- 
structive records  of  Hawaii  in  the  twenties. 

DESTRUCTION   OF   KOU   TREES. 

Before  transferring  the  locality  of  these  reminiscences  from  Hawaii  to  Oahu, 
a  number  of  incidents  and  items  have  suggested  themselves  to  be  added.  Among 
these  are  the  various  forms  of  vegetation  in  our  rather  barren  yards  at  Kailua. 
There  were  two  or  three  young  kou  trees,  perhaps  ten  or  fifteen  feet  high  which 
we  children  would  climb.  The  bright  orange-hued  flowers  held  a  trace  of  honey, 
and  their  rather  fleshy  texture  was  not  unpalatable  to  chew.  The  large,  glossy 
cordate  leaves  formed  a  thick  and  beautiful  foliage.  The  small  nuts  contained 
sweet  kernels  which  repaid  some  effort  to  extract  by  pounding  between  stones. 
The  kou  used  to  be  the  most  beautiful  tree  in  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  as  well  as 
supplying  the  choicest  of  ornamental  wood.  Lahaina  was  once  fringed  with 
these  massive  spreading  trees.  One  of  the  finest  was  in  the  yard  of  Mr.  Eich- 
ards,  on  whose  great  low  boughs  we  boys  loved  to  climb.  About  1860,  a 
minute  insect  called  "red  spider"  came  to  infest  the  under-side  of  the  leaves  to 
such  an  extent  as  in  the  course  of  a  year  to  destroy  every  kou  tree,  not  only  in 
Lahaina,  but  throughout  the  group.  The  timber  of  the  dead  trees  was  cut  and 
used  for  furniture,  much  being  sent  to  Germany.  The  chiefs'  great  calabash 
bowls  of  kou  are  now  rare  and  choice.  Young  trees  of  the  species  exist  here  and 
there.  The  trees  have  always  succumbed  to  the  insect  pest  before  attaining  any 
considerable  size.  Perhaps  Professor  Koebele  might  discover  a  lady  bug  anti- 
dote. 

ABSENCE  OF  TREES  AND  FLOWERS. 

Another  climbable  tree  in  our  yard  was  a  castor-oil  of  unusual  size,  which 
lasted  four  or  five  years.  This  Palmo  Christi  was  a  common  weed  in  the  group, 
although  an  imported  plant.  A  number  of  papaya  trees  flourished  and  bore 
their  melon-like  fruit.  Among  the  rocks  were  pockets  of  soil,  through  which  cer- 
tain trees  and  plants  sent  down  deep  roots  so  as  to  survive  the  long  dry  seasons. 
We  had  two  healthy  shrubs  called  "Pride  of  Barbadoes, "  whose  rich  plumy 
blossoms  resemble  those  of  Poinciana  Eegia,  or  "Flame  Tree."  Of  other  flowers, 
I  remember  none  at  our  home.  There  were  beautiful  damask  roses  at  Kuapehu. 
On  reaching  the  Atlantic  States  in  May,  1840,  the  variety  and  brilliance  of  the 
garden  flowers  was  an  endless  marvel.  Kona  shore  was  never  a  land  of  flowers. 
Yellow  ilimas  were  the  brightest.  Even  now  the  imported  flowers  have  hard 
struggle  to  thrive  on  Oahu  except  in  high  altitudes,  where  they  do  flourish  won- 
derfully. Exceptions  are  the  lantana,  and  the  tropical  Poinciana  and  Bougain- 
villea,  with  some  luxuriant  creepers,  which  often  form  great  curtaining  splendors. 

Kailua  was  quite  exempt  from  dust.  Strong  winds  were  rare,  and  the  great 
stone  heaps  absorbed  any  loose  earth  that  might  be  flying.      On  the  lower  and 


38 

dryer  uplands,  perhaps  a  mile  distant,  were  a  few  clumps  of  lauhala.  One  of 
these,  conspicuous  in  the  distance  from  our  back  door,  simulated  in  the  twilight 
the  shape  of  a  lion,  and  was  an  object  of  childish  uneasiness,  despite  the  knowl- 
edge that  it  was  only  a  tree.  High  on  the  mountain  laid  the  great  forest  of  tall 
trees,  as  they  seemed  to  us,  and  below  them  the  uplands  checkered  into  patches 
enclosed  in  heavy  walls  or  piles  of  rocks.  In  the  distance  to  the  south  laid  a 
long  slope  on  which  were  many  scattering  trees.  South  Kona  looked  as  if  a  fine, 
attractive  region.  I  have  never  visited  it  except  along  the  coast.  Once  in  the 
evening  I  saw  a  huge  meteor  sweep  past  overhead  and  apparently  plunge  into 
those  southern  lands. 

EARLY  ASTRONOMY  AND  GEOLOGY. 

We  were  taught  a  little  astronomj',  although  in  those  days  the  nature  of 
"shooting  stars"  and  comets  w-as  unknown.  The  Thurston  children  repeatedly 
came  down,  and  in  the  early  evening  we  picked  out  on  a  globe  and  in  the  sky  a 
number  of  constellations,  and  learned  to  know  the  larger  planets  and  stars.  At 
Honolulu  we  saw  and  studied  a  fine  Orrey,  with  a  full  assortment  of  moons  in 
lively  revolution.  Dr.  Judd  had  there  also  a  little  elec+rical  cylinder  machine, 
from  which  Persis  would  bravely  lead  off  in  taking  small  shocks  for  the  string 
of  children  holding  hands.  The  connection  of  electricity  and  magnetism  was 
then  unknown.  I  believe  the  doctor  had  a  Leyden  jar.  Of  geology  we  never 
heard.  The  globe  had  been  created  in  six  ordinary  days,  and  there  was  no  mys- 
tery about  it.  Still  we  got  a  grounding  in  scientific  ideas  which  opened  the  way 
for  the  broader  modern  outlook.  We  had  some  notion  of  the  spacial  immensity 
revealed  by  astronomy,  but  none  of  the  immensity  of  time  as  now  disclosed. 
Six  thousand  years  was  the  limit  of  past  earthly  chronology. 

NATIVE  FRUITS  AND  VEGETABLES. 
Speaking  of  mountain  fruits,  we  children  had  met  with  wild  strawberries  on 
the  high  slopes  of  Mauna  Kea,  also  with  ohelos  at  Kilauea.  My  acquaintance 
■with  the  akala  or  mountain  raspberry  came  later.  In  1867  seven  or  eight  miles 
above  Kailua,  in  the  wet  depth  of  the  luxuriant  forest,  I  came  upon  a  giant  cane 
of  raspberries  forty  feet  in  length  hanging  through  a  tree-crotch.  On  the  end 
hung  a  cluster  of  berries  that  occupied  the  space  of  nearly  a  bushel  basket.  I 
picked  one  raspberry  which  measured  over  seven  inches  in  circumference.  This 
fruit  was  of  fine  flavor,  but  absolutely  devoid  of  sweetness.  I  fancy  thatt  the 
seeds  of  these  berries  had  been  at  some  time  transported  from  the  abounding 
berry  fields  of  the  American  coast  by  migratory  geese  or  other  birds  to  whose 
feet  or  feathers  they  had  become  attached.  Violets  also  have  been  found  on  the 
extreme  summit  of  West  Maui.  In  1836  I  saw  a  sumach  thicket  in  remote 
Hamakua,  which  must  have  preceded  Cook's  discovery.  Breadfruit,  taro,  ba- 
nanas, sweet  potatoes  and  sugar  cane  were  doubtless  imported  by  the  early  Ha- 
waiian immigrants. 

TAPA    AND    MAT    MAKING. 

Among  the  familiar  objects  of  Kailua  were  the  wide  strips  of  white  bark  of 
"wauke"  or  paper  mulberry,  which  were  often  spread  out  upon  the  black  lava  or 


39 

upon  beds  of  pebbles  in  the  process  of  preparation  for  pounding  out  into  tapa 
cloth.  Quantities  of  lauhala  or  pandanus  leaves  were  also  laid  out  in  prepara- 
tion for  weaving  into  coarse  mats.  A  locality  much  frequented  by  us  was  §; 
rocky  cove  at  the  shore  where  we  often  bathed,  wearing  flannel  gowns.  After 
the  bath  we  stepped  a  little  inland  to  a  house  where  the  native  women  would 
empty  over  us,  to  wash  out  the  salt,  calabashes  of  brackish  water  from  a  little 
pool  or  well  four  or  five  feet  down,  a  sort  of  cave  in  the  lava.  There  was  a 
variety  of  animal  life  in  the  small  pools  of  the  cove,  and  an  occasional  live  shell. 
The  beach  sands  abounded  in  damaged  shells  of  no  special  beauty,  but  desired 
by  children. 

INTRODUCTION  OF  TOMATOES  AND  GUAVAS. 
Among  weeds  on  the  shore,  in  the  moister  season,  purslane  abounded,  also 
mustard.  Pepper-grass  and  wild  tomatoes  appeared  about  1835.  Indigo  was  in- 
troduced into  gardens  on  Oahu  a  little  later,  and  in  the  course  of  fifteen  years 
became  a  detested  weed,  nearly  disappearing,  however,  after  1870.  Guavas  were 
choice  garden  fruits  in  the  later  thirties,  not  becoming  wild  until  some  twenty 
years  later.  Calling  at  the  end  of  1839  at  Eimeo,  near  Tahiti,  I  wondered  to  see 
the  hills  overgrown  by  wild  guavas.  Our  ship  took  on  a  supply  of  guava  fire- 
wood, some  of  which  went  to  the  captain's  lathe  for  "scrimshawing,"  in  which 
much  sperm-whale  jawbone  and  teeth  were  also  consumed.  This  reminds  me  of 
a  long  walk  over  the  black  lava  knobs  north  of  Kailua,  which  we  once  took  to  a 
little  sand  beach  where  lay  the  vast  rotting  carcass  of  a  whale,  probably  killed 
and  lost  by  some  whaler  cruising  in  those  waters.  We  used  to  look  from  the  vil- 
lage off  to  those  black  points  in  the  north  where  in  storms  enormous  clouds  of 
spray  like  great  ships  flew  up  from  the  angry  attacks  of  the  waves. 

EARLY  COWBOYS  AND   CATTLE. 

While  in  those  days  horses  were  rarely  seen  in  Kona,  there  were  quite  a  num- 
ber of  those  animals  in  use  on  Mauna  Kea  in  catching  wild  cattle,  by  "Panio- 
los"  or  Spanish  cowboys,  with  whom  were  also  natives  and  half -Spaniards. 
These  cowboys  manufactured  their  own  heavy  Spanish  saddles  and  bridles,  with 
their  lariats,  all  of  cowhide,  save  the  wooden  saddle  frame,  and  the  cruel  iron 
bits  and  spurs,  made  by  some  "armorer"  or  smith.  The  wild  Mexican  breed  of 
cattle  could  be  handled  only  with  the  merciless  lasso,  and  the  high-pommeled 
saddle  to  enable  the  trained  pony  to  lean  back  and  keep  up  the  strain  on  the 
noosed  beeve  or  bipi.  The  Australian  tame  English  breed  of  cattle  required 
only  the  whip,  and  so  the  Australian  saddle  has  no  pommel.  Horses  were  always 
called  lio  by  the  natives,  probably  a  shortening  of  the  Spanish  "caballo"  (ca- 
balleo). 

POSTAGE    AND    POSTAL    METHODS. 

My  father  wrote  and  received  a  good  many  letters.  All  were  sealed  with 
wafers  or  wax,  envelopes  being  unknown.  United  States  postage  was  twenty- 
five  cents  for  every  piece  of  paper,  large  or  small.  The  proper  folding  of  a  let- 
ter sheet  was  quite  an  art,  and  the  portions  of  the  outer  page  which  were 
turned  inside  would  be  carefully  filled  with  writing.     Stamps  being  unknown, 


40 

''Paid  25  Cents"  would  bo  written  ^Yith  a  pen  by  the  postmaster  at  the  seaport. 
At  one  time  several  large  volumes  of  an  encyclopedia  with  many  wonderful 
plates  came  from  somewhere  to  engage  our  interest.  Among  the  plates  espec- 
ially wonderful  wore  some  illustrating  anatomy.  That  particular  volume  soon 
mysteriously  disappeared,  no  doubt  being  deemed  unadapted  to  the  childish 
mind.  But  an  enduring  fascination  in  that  subject  was  there  created.  Such  is 
forbidden  fruit! 

YOUTHFUL    GRIEVANCES    AND    RELIGIOUS    LIFE. 

We  were  not  rich  in  toys.  At  a  visit  to  Honolulu  in  1835,  we  were  enabled 
to  see  a  considerable  assortment  of  cheap  toys  sent  out  for  the  Mission  children. 
We  awaited  the  distribution  with  intense  anxiety,  our  desires  being  especially 
fixed  upon  a  Noah's  Ark  with  its  inhabitants.  How  deep  then  was  our  chagrin 
and  resentment  when  the  Mater,  with  a  view  to  utility,  selected  for  us  a  dimin- 
utive iron  skillet.  I  think  that  was  one  of  the  most  serious  grievances  of  my 
early  life;  but  no  remonstrance  availed  or  was  tolerated.  That  skillet  became 
prominent  in  the  domestic  economy  as  a  glue  pot.  Utility  held  much  place  in 
our  education.  I  learned  sewing  with  my  sister,  and  became  somewhat  skilled 
with  the  needle,  an  art  not  wholly  useless  in  later  life.  But  I  never  learned  to 
throw  a  ball  straight — indeed  never  saw  a  ball  game  before  reaching  America. 

Most  prominent  in  our  education  was  religious  instruction,  although  for 
some  reason  we  never  made  the  slightest  acquaintance  with  the  Shorter  Cate- 
chism. Indeed  I  doubt  if  either  of  our  parents  had  ever  learned  that  famous 
compend  of  doctrine,  both  having  passed  their  childhood  in  the  pioneer  life  of 
the  Onondaga  and  Genesee  frontiers.  Family  prayers  came  twice  a  day.  The 
father  was  most  sincere,  devout,  and  impressive  in  petitions  and  discourse.  We 
all  read  verses  in  turn.  I  began  to  take  my  turn  soon  after  being  four  years  old. 
Some  "Practical  Observations"  always  followed  from  Scott's  Commentary.  The 
Bible  became  an  exceedingly  familiar  book,  both  in  its  history  and  in  its  general 
system  of  doctrine  as  in  those  days  interpreted.  Indeed  I  have  not  very  radically 
diverged  in  later  life  from  those  old  conceptions  of  Divine  truth.  Singing  was 
confined  to  our  weekly  prayer-meeting;  but  a  considerable  number  of  the  "Vil- 
lage Hymns"  were  memorized  in  childhood,  and  have  never  been  forgotten. 

DIFFICULTY    OF    TEACHING    ENGLISH. 

The  instruction  of  the  natives  was  conducted  exclusively  in  their  own  lan- 
guage. I  remember  only  one  child  to  whom  my  father  taught  English,  and  she 
was  a  grandchild  of  the  Governor.  Nearly  every  new  missionary  undertook  to 
teach  some  English  to  the  natives,  but  soon  became  satisfied  of  the  futility  of 
the  effort.  Foreign  visitors  very  uniformly  censured  the  missionaries  for  not 
so  teaching  the  natives,  and  opening  to  them  the  wide  treasures  contained  in  the 
English  language.  It  was  simply  impracticable.  Even  now  after  more  than 
forty  years  of  diligent  teaching  of  English  in  the  common  and  high  schools,  not 
one  native  in  five  so  taught  can  read  an  ordinary  English  newspaper.  Much 
success,  however,  has  been  secured  in  boarding  schools,  where  the  pupils  are  re- 
quired to  converse  only  in  English.  The  language  has  gradually  made  itself  at 
home  in  such  schools,  and  new  pupils  fall  into  its  use  almost  spontaneously. 


41 

A    MISSIONARY    ERROR. 

I  have  long  regarded  the  most  serious  error  of  the  missionary  work  as  pur- 
sued in  these  Islands  as  being  the  failure  to  begin  by  establishing,  as  fast  as 
possible,  training  schools  for  the  thorough  civilizing  and  Christianizing  of  youth 
to  become  leaders  of  their  people  in  all  good  things.  We  can  see  how  much  has 
been  accomplished  by  such  means  in  the  Gilbert  and  Marshall  Islands  by  a  very 
small  number  of  white  missionaries  located  on  Kusaie.  Each  trained  native 
couple  becomes  a  light  to  the  people.  Many  of  the  older  missionaries  were  deep- 
ly impressed  with  the  importance  of  that  line  of  work.  But,  unhappily,  a  theory 
prevailed  in  the  Board  of  Missions  in  Boston  that  the  true  work  of  the  mission- 
ary was  to  "preach  the  Gospel,"  and  not  to  impart  education  beyond  what  was 
necessary  to  read  and  understand  the  Bible,  except  that  a  few  native  preachers 
and  teachers  should  receive  special  training.  The  Eev.  Dr.  Rufus  Anderson, 
whose  influence  was  paramount,  always  frowned  upon  creating  any  such  system 
of  boarding  schools  as  have  gradually  grown  up  here  under  American  mission 
auspices  during  the  past  forty  years.  Mr.  Edward  Bailey  and  Miss  Ogden  es- 
tablished one  girls'  boarding  school  at  Wailuku  about  1840,  but  through  Dr. 
Anderson's  malign  influence  this  was  allowed  to  die  out.  At  his  visit  here  in 
1863,  he  supported  the  creation  of  one  boarding  school  for  training  wives  for 
pastors  and  missionaries.  Only  older  girls  were  allowed  in  that  school.  I  per- 
sonally witnessed  Dr.  Anderson's  severe  manifestation  of  disapproval  of  board- 
ing schools  for  female  children.  He  was  a  good,  mainly  a  wise  man  and  of  im- 
mense capacity  for  controlling  and  ruling;  but  wedded  to  his  own  theories.  Had 
training  schools  for  young  boys  and  girls  been  conducted  forty  years  earlier,  I 
believe  that  Hawaiian  civilization  would  have  been  greatly  accelerated. 

REMOVAL    TO    EWA. 

Eeverend  Artemas  Bishop,  in  the  summer  of  1836,  removed  with  Ms  wife 
and  two  children  from  Kailua,  Hawaii  to  Ewa,  Oahu.  A  chief  cause  for 
the  change  of  parish  was  the  impaired  health  of  Mrs.  Bishop,  in  whom  hard 
work  as  a  school  teacher  in  a  very  warm  climate  had  produced  some  de- 
gree of  nervous  prostration.  This  gradually  abated  in  the  cooler  breezes  of 
Ewa,  with  abstinence  from  school  work,  although  the  energetic  missionary  still 
applied  herself  to  active  labors  among  the  women,  who  met  on  our  prem- 
ises in  great  numbers. 

CHURCH    BUILDING   BY    LOWELL    SMITH. 

Our  predecessors  at  Ewa  were  Eev.  and  Mrs.  Lowell  Smith,  specially  cap- 
able and  devoted  missionaries  who  had  been  only  two  years  in  the  field. 
Mr.  Smith  had  built  a  comfortable  house  of  adobe  bricks,  thatched  with 
grass  and  well  plastered  inside  and  out.  He  had  also  erected  the  adobe 
walls  of  a  church,  capable  of  holding  an  audience  of  about  one  thousand 
people.  I  think  the  roof  a^so  was  on.  Mr.  Smith  took  up  his  residence 
in  Honolulu,  at  first  engaging  in  organizing  and  superintending  day-schools, 
but  soon  organizing  a  second  parish  in  the  capital,  and  building  the  old  Kau- 
makapili  church.     The  architecture    of    this    as  well  as  the   Ewa  church  was 


42 

simple  aud  homely.  The  adobe  walls  fifteen  feet  high  were  covered  by  a 
steeply  pitched  roof,  which  extended  out  in  a  verandah  on  all  four  sides, 
in  order  to  protect  the  base  of  the  mud  walls  from  being  destroyed  by  rain- 
drip.  The  timbers  of  the  roof  were  long  beams  dragged  from  the  mountains 
entirely  by  human  strength,  the  labor  being  secured  by  volunteering,  under 
the  leadership  of  the  chiefs. 

THE    MISSION   PREMISES   OP   EWA. 

Our  removal  from  Kailua  was  with  many  i)iii)edhnriit(i.  There  were  four 
cows  and  heifers,  and  a  flock  of  a  dozen  goats.  A  good  sized  canoe  was 
brought  for  use  in  transportation  between  Honolulu  and  Pearl  Eiver.  Among 
other  things  were  a  few  cuttings  of  tree-figs  from  Kuapehu,  the  ends  of 
which  were  inserted  into  sweet  potatoes  to  prevent  drying.  From  these  pro- 
ceeded a  small  grove  of  fig  trees,  which  afterwards  yielded  abundant  fruit. 
The  mission  house  was  located  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Waiawa  creek,  about 
one-fourth  mile  northwest  of  the  present  railway  station  at  Pearl  City. 
There  was  nearly  an  acre  of  ground  enclosed  in  an  adobe  wall.  Some  dis- 
tance seaward  was  a  glebe  of  a  couple  of  acres  of  taro  swamp,  a  little  below 
where  the  railway  bridge  now  crosses  the  creek.  A  small  cattle  pen  was 
enclosed  about  twenty  rods  north.  An  old  wall  of  the  natives  separated  the 
upland  from  the  planted  lands  and  kept  out  the  pigs  and  afterward  the 
cattle.  Copious  springs  of  most  delicious  water  abounded  throughout  the  dis- 
trict of  Ewa,  a  small  one  being  in  our  own  grounds. 

ADOBE  BUILDINGS. 

Adobes  furnished  an  excellent  material  for  cheap  building.  The  rich  soil 
was  very  clayey.  A  species  of  bunch  grass  called  makuikui,  thickly  covered 
the  lower  uplands.  The  dry  fibre  of  its  leaves  lay  in  great  accumulations  of 
many  years'  growth.  This  very  tough  fibre  was  gathered  in  great  quan- 
tities and  trodden  by  the  natives  into  the  wet  clay.  This  fibrous  mortar 
after  standing  over  night,  was  retrodden  and  moulded  into  huge  bricks  to 
be  dried  in  the  sun.  So  tough  was  the  resulting  concretion,  that  it  was 
nearly  impossible  to  drive  a  nail  into  a  well  made  adobe.  I  have  always 
fancied  that  makuikui  grass  to  be  worth  study  as  a  valuable  fibre  plant. 
It  has  nearly  become  extinct,  being  a  favorite  food  of  animals.  Probably  it 
can  still  be  found  in  Ewa  among  the  cliffs. 

PENALTY  FOR  GOAT   STEALING. 

My  father's  cows  were  the  first  cattle  that  had  ever  run  on  the  Ewa  up- 
lands. Waiawa  valley  above  us  lay  knee  deep  with  the  richest  of  grass,  where 
our  cows  rioted.  Our  goats  took  to  the  higher  ground,  where  they  flourished, 
being  driven  in  and  penned  at  night.  This  flock  of  goats  was  suddenly 
multiplied  in  a  remarkable  manner.  One  day  'they  were  found  missing,  and 
no  trace  discovered  by  any  search.  A  flock  of  two  hundred  goats  had  been 
driven  over  from  Waialua  to  Honolulu  and  our  poor  little  drove  of  thirty 
absorbed   on   the   road.     The   skins   of    ours   were    speedily  identified   in  town 


43 

by  a  peculiar  mark  on  the  ears.  The  thief  was  brought  before  Governor 
Kekuanaoa,  who  sentenced  him  to  make  scriptural  reparation,  namely  four- 
fold. He  had  to  sell  a  fine  horse,  buying  with  the  proceeds  one  hundred 
and  twenty  goats,  which  he  very  humbly  delivered.  An  enlarged  stockade 
had  to  be  built  for  their  accommodation.  The  kids  would  often  stick  their 
noses  between  the  poles  when  hungry  hogs  on  the  watch  would  bite  off  their 
muzzles. 

"ROBBING    THE    POOR    NATIVES." 

We  made  constant  use  of  goat's  milk  for  the  table  and  cooking.  Kid's 
flesh  was  a  savory  diet.  Goat's  mutton  was  too  rank  and  went  to  the  use 
of  our  native  servants.  Cow's  milk  was  all  reserved  for  butter,  some  of 
which  was  contributed  to  our  hospitable  friends  at  the  capital.  The  herd 
gradually  multiplied  and  in  a  few  years  became  large.  Mrs.  Bishop  finding 
herself  incapacitated  for  teaching,  finally  devoted  herself  to  butter-making, 
which  brought  in  a  good  income  relieving  the  American  Board  of  their  support. 
As  the  result  the  missionary  couple  when  aged,  had  accumulated  enough  for 
their  own  support,  and  left  about  $7,500  apiece  to  their  two  children.  A 
third  of  this,  however  grew  from  avails  of  city  lots  in  Eochester,  N.  Y.  orig- 
inally a  piece  of  primeval  forest  inherited  by  Mrs.  Bishop.  As  missionaries 
went  forty  years  ago,  these  old  people  were  counted  among  the  * '  rich  mis- 
sionaries" who  had  "robbed  the  poor  Hawaiians. " 

MORAL  CONDITIONS  IN  EWA  AND  WAIANAE. 

I  was  in  Ewa  three  and  a  half  years,  being  then  sent  "home"  to  the 
States,  after  the  custom  of  missionaries'  children.  During  that  time  I  wit- 
nessed a  constant  and  arduous  devotion  of  my  parents  to  spiritual  and 
educational  labor  for  the  native  people.  My  father's  parish  was  a  large  one, 
extending  from  Salt  Lake  to  Kaena  Point,  including  the  districts  of  Ewa 
and  Waianae,  with  a  population  of  seven  or  eight  thousand,  exclusively  Ha- 
waiians. Owing  to  their  contiguity  to  a  large  sea-port,  the  moral  condition 
of  the  people  was  more  corrupt  than  at  Kailua.  In  Ewa,  a  considerable  body 
of  hopeful  christians  had  been  gathered  into  the  church.  Most  of  the  people 
gave  a  friendly  attention  to  religious  teaching.  The  proprietary  chief  of 
Ewa  was  the  pious  Premier  Kinau,  whose  influence  secured  the  general  ad- 
herence of  the  people  to  the  missionary.  It  was  otherwise  in  Waianae,  whose 
proprietary  chief  was  Liliha,  or  "Madam  Bobie,"  who  had  long  been  hostile 
to  the  Protestant  missionaries.       The  Waianae  people  were  accordingly  averse. 

LIVING    CONDITIONS    AT    EWA. 

We  had  a  most  excellent  near  neighbor  in  Kanepaiki,  the  old  head  man, 
or  Konohiki  of  Ewa,  for  whom  I  formed  a  decided  affection.  He  was  very 
efiScient  in  completing  the  unfurnished  church,  and  in  building  a  large  adobe 
school-house,  not  far  from  the  present  District  school.  In  a  year  or  two,  a 
very  competent  teacher  came  from  Lahainaluna  Seminary,  a  fine  looking 
native,   named   Haaliliamanu.     He   grew   to   be   high   in   the   King's   favor   and 


44 

became  a  "Hulumanu, "  or  member  of  the  King's  personal  staff.  Here  and 
there,  in  the  vicinity,  lived  native  men  or  women  of  a  class  above  the  common 
makaainanas,  although  hardly  chiefs,  yet  in  possession  of  such  "ilis"  of  land 
as  to  enable  them  to  keep  a  few  dependents.  Of  such  a  kind  was  old  Deborah 
who  had  a  very  lazy  horse,  always  at  our  service  when  needed  for  a  trip  to 
town.  Throughout  the  district  of  Ewa  the  common  people  were  generally  well 
fed.  Owing  to  the  decay  of  population  great  breadths  of  taro  marsh  had 
fallen  into  disuse,  and  there  was  a  surplus  of  soil  and  water  for  raising  food. 

KAILUA  AND   EWA   CONTRASTED. 

The  dwellings  of  the  common  natives,  I  think,  were  In  poorer  condition 
than  those  in  Kailua.  Doubtless  the  moister  climate  caused  more  decay 
of  the  thatch.  The  people  were  also  probably  more  drunken  and  dissolute. 
As  in  Kailua,  there  was  no  dwelling  of  a  native  not  of  the  old  Hawaiian 
style.  Three  miles  west  at  Waipahu,  stood  a  partially  framed  house,  occupied 
by  Mr.  Thomas  Hunt.  The  clothing  of  the  common  people  was  mostly  in  the 
old  native  costume.  A  few  more  men  wore  cotton  shirts  when  out  on  a 
week-day,  and  now  and  then  legs  were  incased  in  pants  when  at  church.  No 
beasts  of  burden  were  in  use.  All  burdens  were  carried  on  the  old  native 
yoke  or  mamaka,  just  as  Chinese  now  carry  them  in  the  streets  of  Honolulu. 
As  in  Kailua,  numbers  of  lean  swine  hung  around  the  outer  walls  of  the 
villages,  or  were  occasionally  enclosed  in  pens.  Owning  no  land  and  de- 
pendent on  the  caprice  of  their  superiors,  the  common  people  were  shiftless 
and  indolent,  living  from  hand  to  mouth. 

MONET   WAGES   UNKNOWN. 

Money  wages  for  labor  were  nearly  unknown.  Perhaps  along  the  wharves 
in  Honolulu,  laborers  might  earn  a  real  or  hapawalu  a  day.  Domestic  serv- 
ants or  ohuas  were  glad  to  be  employed  for  their  keep.  It  needed  quite  a 
number  of  them  to  perform  the  work  of  a  small  household.  Expenses  were 
light.  In  the  later  thirties,  the  missionaries  began  to  be  paid  regular  stipends 
of  four  hundred  dollars  for  each  couple,  and  a  small  addition  for  each  child. 
This  was  found  to  be  comparative  opulence,  with  our  very  plain  way  of  living. 
Our  servants  cultivated  the  little  glibe,  and  so  fed  us  and  themselves.  Pig- 
pen, cow-pen  and  goat-pen  contributed  with  broods  of  fowls  and  turkeys. 

PIA  AS  A  DIET. 
Supplies  of  bananas,  sugar  cane,  melons,  squashes  and  other  eatables  were 
bought  for  books,  slates  etc.  A  very  common  article  was  pia,  or  arrow  root, 
which  came  in  the  form  of  balls  in  a  dirty  condition,  imperfectly  separated 
from  the  fibre  of  the  tubers.  This  we  would  wash  and  strain,  leaving  the 
snow-white  sediment  to  be  dried  in  the  sun.  Pia  was  a  favorite  diet  with 
the  little  mission  children  in  Honolulu,  and  probably  wholesome.  I  had  a 
special  aversion  for  it,  owing  to  an  unhappy  infantile  experience.  It  was 
with  a  distressing  loathing  that  I  used  to  see  little  tots  gorging  themselves  on 
their  home  steps  with  the  brown  jelly  in  their  tin  cups.  It  was  colored  with 
molasses.       But  those  little   Clarks  and  Judds  all  grew  up  healthy.     A  chief 


45 

use  of  pia  was  for  starching  clothes.  To  separate  the  starch  from  the  potato- 
like tubers  required  only  grating,  straining  and  washing.  The  tubers  grew 
wild,  probably  an  imported  plant,  with  an  arrow-shaped  leaf. 

TRIPS  TO  WAIALUA. 

Our  family  made  repeated  trips  to  the  home  of  Rev.  John  S.  Emerson  at 
"VVaialua  during  those  years.  There  was  then  no  road  save  a  foot  path  across 
the  generally  smooth  upland.  We  forded  the  streams.  Beyond  Kipapa  gulch 
the  upland  was  dotted  with  occasional  groves  of  Koa  trees.  On  the  high 
plains  ti  plant  abounded  often  so  high  as  to  intercept  the  view.  No  cattle 
then  existed  to  destroy  its  succulent  foliage.  According  to  the  statements 
of  the  natives  a  forest  formerly  covered  the  whole  of  the  then  nearly  naked 
plains.  It  was  burned  off  by  the  natives  in  search  of  sandal-wood  which 
they  detected  by  its  odor  when  burning.  There  were  no  bridges  in  Wailua. 
I  think  we  crossed  the  creeks  in  canoes,  swimming  the  horses.  The  Emer- 
sons  were  living  in  the  then  new  stone  house,  which  is  still  standing,  much 
dilapidated.  The  wooden  upper  story  was  added  later.  At  one  time  I 
spent  several  weeks  there  very  pleasantly  with  my  mother.  Both  Mr.  &  Mrs. 
Emerson  were  very  kind.  Mr.  Emerson  heard  my  Virgil  lessons,  and  inducted 
me  into  the  mystery  of  scanning  hexameters.       He  was  an  apt  teacher. 

HOME-MADE  MOLASSES  AND  FILTERS. 
The  only  disagreeable  thing  I  remember  was  a  certain  monotony  of  diet 
at  supper,  which  consisted  chiefly  of  pai-ai  and  molasses.  Mr.  Emerson 
made  his  own  molasses,  grinding  a  few  bundles  of  cane  in  a  little  wooden  mill 
turned  by  oxen,  and  boiling  down  the  juice  in  an  old  whaler's  try-pot.  The 
syrup  was  so  thick  as  to  run  with  difficulty  from  the  bottle,  and  extremely 
sweet.  All  our  molasses  at  Ewa  was  supplied  by  Mr.  Emerson.  On  one  occa- 
sion the  missionary  took  his  ox-cart,  and  with  several  natives,  went  some 
distance  along  the  beach  to  the  northward,  where  we  broke  out  and  loaded 
the  cart  with  a  quantity  of  large  blocks  of  creamy  sandstone,  from  twelve 
to  fifteen  inches  thick.  It  was  found  beneath  the  sand  in  the  water,  and  was 
in  80  soft  a  condition  as  to  be  cut  like  cheese.  After  a  few  day's  exposure, 
it  petrified  to  great  hardness,  just  as  lime  mortar  does  by  carbonating  in  the 
air.  After  getting  it  to  the  house,  all  hands  went  to  work  and  hollowed 
and  shaped  the  blocks  into  conical  drip  stones.  I  was  furnished  with  mallet 
and  gouge,  and  hollowed  out  a  passable  drip  stone  not  very  well  proportioned. 
Such  stones  were  much  used  for  filtering  and  cooling  water  in  those  days. 

NO    BRIDGES    UNTIL    1840. 

Our  journeys  to  Honolulu  were  infrequent,  at  first  by  canoe,  but  latterly 
on  horseback,  my  father  having  become  the  possessor  of  a  horse  or  two.  The 
road  was  only  the  native  trail,  winding  up  the  various  palis  on  the  way. 
There  were  no  bridges  in  these  islands  until  after  1840.  We  emerged  from 
Moanalua  valley  a  quarter  mile  above  the  present  road,  fording  the  fish  pond 
beyond  Iwilei,  and  wading  through  the  mud  flats  near  the  present  Railway 
wharves.     Every   two   or   three   months   Mr.   Emerson    would   call   at   our   house 


46 

on  his  way  to  town.  Rov.  Lowell  Smith  was  also  a  frequent  guest,  loving  to 
visit  his  old  parish,  aud  helping  to  inspire  the  people  in  spiritual  things.  He 
was  an  alert  and  genial  missionary,  very  einglcminded  and  full  of  zeal.  In 
riding,  he  always  wore  a  thin  black  claw-hammer  coat,  with  the  skirts 
carefully  pinned  forward  to  keep  them  from  contact  with  the  back  of  the 
horse.  Those  old  Ewa  missionaries  would  have  marveled  could  they  have  had 
a  vision  of  present  conditions,  with  swift  railway  trains  sweeping  through 
the  country,  vast  cane  fields  intersected  by  rail-tracks  and  huge  irrigation 
pipes  climbing  the  uplands  from  the  immense  steam  pumps.  My  father,  who 
died  in  1872,  never  saw  a  railway,  nor  even  a  large  steamer.  During  half  a 
century  his  only  trip   abroad  was  on  a  missionary  errand  to  the   Marquesas. 

PEARL  OYSTERS  AND  CLAMS. 

The  lochs  or  lagoons  of  Pearl  River  were  not  then  as  shoal  as  now.  The 
subsequent  occupation  of  the  uplands  by  cattle  denuded  the  country  of  herb- 
age and  caused  vast  quantities  of  earth  to  be  washed  down  by  storms  into 
the  lagoons,  shoaling  the  w^ater  for  a  long  distance  seaward.  No  doubt  the 
area  of  deep  water  and  anchorage  has  been  greatly  diminished.  In  the  thirties 
the  small  pearl  oyster  was  quite  abundant,  and  common  on  our  table.  Small 
pearls  were  frequently  found  in  them.  No  doubt  the  copious  inflow  of  fresh 
water  favored  their  presence.  I  think  they  have  become  almost  entirely  ex- 
tinct, drowned  out  by  the  mud.  There  was  also  at  Pearl  Eiver  a  handsome 
speckled  clam,  of  delicate  flavor,  which  contained  milk  white  pearls  of  ex- 
quisite luster,  and  perfectly  spherical.  I  think  that  clam  is  still  found  in  the 
Ewa  lochs. 

A  VISITATION  OF   SMALLPOX. 

But  the  greatest  change  in  Ewa  is  in  the  almost  extinction  of  the  native 
population.  Some  4,000  Asiatic  laborers  have  taken  their  places,  and  few 
Hawaiians  are  to  be  seen.  The  few  who  remain  have  abundant  means,  renting 
their  lands  to  the  industrious  Chinese.  The  greatest  destruction  of  Hawaiian 
population  took  place  in  the  summer  of  1853,  by  an  invasion  of  small-pox. 
This  broke  out  in  Honolulu.  Eev.  A.  Bishop  immediately  procured  a  supply 
of  vaccine  matter,  which  proved  to  be  spurious.  He  then  proceeded  to  inocu- 
late the  people  with  small-pox,  thus  saving  hundreds  of  lives,  and  himself 
coming  down  with  varioloid,  having  formerly  been  vaccinated.  But  more  than 
half  of  the  population  of  Ewa  perished  in  a  few  weeks.  The  earliest  cases 
were  pathetic.  A  young  woman  in  Kalauao  was  visiting  in  Honolulu,  and  con- 
tracted the  malady.  She  hastened  home  in  terror  and  summoned  her  friends 
and  kindred  from  all  the  villages  of  Ewa  to  bid  her  farewell.  They  all 
came  and  kissed  her,  then  returned  to  their  homes  and  all  died.  The  young 
woman  herself  recovered. 

The  population  of  the  other  islands  were  nearly  all  saved  by  means  of 
thorough  vaccination  before  the  pestilence  had  time  to  spread,  athough  about 
eighty  died  at  Lahaina  before  they  could  be  protected.  I  was  then  living 
there.      At    that    time    no    one     had     thought     of     objecting    to     vaccination. 

I  think  that  at  Ewa,  we  saw  much  less  of  the  higher  class  of  chiefs  than 


47 

while  living  at  Kailua.  Their  residence  was  at  Lahaina^  or  at  Honolulu, 
where  I  seldom  saw  them.  I  do  not  remember  ever  in  my  childhood  to  have 
seen  Kauikeaouli  (King  Kamehameha  III)  or  his  sister  Nahienaena,  both  of 
whom  I  often  heard  mentioned.  There  was  one  chief  whose  face  was 
familiar,  named  Kealiiahonui  who  was  conspicuous  for  his  stature  and  per- 
sonal beauty.  He  was  brought  to  Honolulu  in  1823  by  the  then  tyrannical 
Regent  Kaahumanu,  who  took  him  and  his  father,  King  Kaumualii  of  Kauai 
as  her  joint  husbands.  At  her  conversion  in  1825,  she  put  away  her  younger 
husband.  I  was  also  familiar  with  the  person  of  Auhea  Kekauluohi,  the  mother 
of  King  Lunalilo. 

HOW  ROYALTY  TRAVELED. 

The  Premier  Kinau,  half  sister  of  the  King,  I  often  saw.  On  one  memor- 
able occasion,  she  and  her  husband,  the  redoutable  Governor  Kekuanaoa, 
visited  Waiawa  where  we  lived.  They  had  been  making  a  sort  of  royal 
progress  around  the  island,  and  were  travelling  in  great  state.  They  had 
come  through  that  day  twenty  miles  from  Waialua,  and  were  received  by  the 
Konohiki  and  people  under  a  great  lanai  covered  with  cocoanut  leaves,  where 
they  sat  upon  the  large  sofa  on  which  they  traveled.  This  sofa  was  mounted 
upon  an  immense  platform  composed  of  long  poles  crossing  each  other  in  such 
a  manner  that  fifty  men  at  once  could  lift  and  trot  off  with  their  royal  load. 
The  mission  family  went  up  and  paid  our  respects  in  company  with  the 
principle  people  of  the  district. 

There  w-as  a  great  gathering  of  people  both  those  of  Ewa,  and  those  who 
accompanied  the  chiefs  from  Waialua.  Our  people  prostrated  themselves 
and  crawled  up  into  the  royal  presence. 

The  head  man  of  Waialua  was  quite  conspicuous  in  active  attendance  on 
the  great  personages,  and  was  got  up  in  superior  costume.  Our  own  head 
man  Kanepaiki  seemed  to  be  absent,  until  I  at  last  espied  him  squatting  at 
some  distance  among  the  common  natives,  dressed  in  an  old  dirty  shirt  and 
malo.  Expressing  my  surprise,  my  father  explained  that  the  high  chiefs 
would  think  much  more  of  him  for  his  humility  than  of  the  ostentatious 
gentleman  from  Waialua.  I  had  never  seen  Kanepaiki  so  poorly  dressed. 
Possibly  the  fact  of  Kinau  being  owner  of  Ewa  made  some  difference,  relegat- 
ing him  to  the  position  of  a  mere  servant,  whereas  the  Waialua  man  had 
been  acting  as  entertainer. 

ARRESTING    A    PRINCE. 

Kinau   was  a  tall  and  portly  chiefess,  weighing  from   250   to   300   pounds. 

Her  features  were  coarse  and  unattractive,  yet  not  forbidding.  She  then 
liad  three  sons  and  a  daughter.  Two  of  the  sons  became  the  Kings  Kameha- 
meha IV  and  V.  An  older  son  Moses,  died  in  youth,  after  having  developed 
a  violent  and  uncontrollable  nature,  of  which  I  once  witnessed  a  sample  in 
his  childhood.  We  were  embarking  for  Kauai  early  in  1839  in  company  with. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Amos  F.  Cooke  and  the  old  governor  of  Kauai,  Kaikioewa,  who 
was  the  official  Kahu,  or  guardian  of  little  Prince  Moses.  The  youngster  had 
made   up   his   mind    to   go   with   his   guardian.      He    came   down    to   Robinsons' 


4S 

wharf  where  we  were  about  to  set  sail,  and  laid  hold  of  the  side  of  the  brig, 
yelling  and  howling.  His  guardian  all  the  time  continued  to  dissuade  and 
oxpostulate.  No  one  dared  to  use  force  upon  the  furious  child.  This  con- 
tinued for  more  than  two  hours,  until  nearly  night.  Finally  his  father,  the 
governor  Kokuauaoa,  sent  down  a  file  of  soldiers  with  orders  to  arrest  and 
convey  the  little  prince  home  to  the  palace  near  by.  This  released  us  from 
further  detention,  and  we  set  sail.  It  was  a  tiresome,  but  very  curious  ex- 
perience. To  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cooke  it  was  doubtless  an  instructive  experience, 
since  about  a  year  later,  as  I  think,  they  were  placed  in  charge  of  the 
"Eoyal  School"  for  the  children  of  the  chiefs,  over  whom  they  maintained 
a  family  rule  of  gentle  but  firm  discipline,  to  which  the  little  princes  had 
been  strangers. 

A   ROYAL   LUAU. 

To  revert  to  the  royal  visit  at  Waiawa,  several  days  had  been  previously 
occupied  in  preparing  food  for  the  entertainment  of  the  chiefs  and  their 
great  retinue,  taxing  all  the  resources  of  the  people.  Probably  the  food  was 
taken  from  the  patches,  always  the  best  ones,  which  were  set  apart  for  the 
use  of  the  Landlord,  and  cultivated  by  the  weekly  labor  of  all  the  natives. 
Not  far  inland  from  our  house  were  dug  three  immense  "imu"  ovens.  These 
were  deep  and  broad  pits,  holding  twenty  or  thirty  barrels  each  of  tare.  One 
or  two  cords  of  wood  were  piled  in  each  pit  and  covered  with  lava  stones 
perhaps  two  feet  deep.  The  burning  of  the  wood  brought  most  of  the 
stones  to  no  more  than  red  heat.  When  the  wood  was  consumed  the  hot 
stones  were"  leveled  and  the  taro  piled  upon  them  together  with  sweet  pota- 
toes, and  large  hogs  wrapped  in  banana  leaves.  The  interiors  of  the  hogs 
were  first  filled  with  red  hot  stones,  as  well  as  cavities  opened  between  the 
shoulder  blades  and  ribs.  Other  meats  were  added,  such  as  goats  fowls  and 
fish,  the  smaller  being  wrapped  in  ti-leaves. 

As  soon  as  the  piles  of  vegetables  and  meats  were  suitably  laid  up  in 
the  pits,  the  whole  mass  was  covered  deeply  with  fresh  grass  and  rushes.  The 
earth  dug  from  the  pits  was  then  piled  upon  the  grass,  covering  it  deeply, 
but  leaving  a  small  opening  on  the  summit  of  the  mound.  Into  this  was 
suddenly  poured  water  to  the  amount  of  three  or  four  barrels.  The  earth 
was  instantly  piled  into  the  opening,  sealing  in  the  violently  escaping 
steam  generated  by  the  red-hot  stones.  The  ovens  were  then  left  to  "stew 
in  their  own  juice"  for  several  hours.  On  opening,  the  contents  were  found 
to  be  most  thoroughly  cooked  by  the  steam.  The  meats  were  peculiarly  sav- 
ory. Probably  there  is  no  more  satisfactory  plain  cooking  in  the  world,  nor 
any  performed  with  greater  economy  of  fuel  than  in  the  Hawaiian  Imu. 
A  heavy  task  remained  to  clean  the  taro  and  pound  it  into  poi.  Much 
of  the  taro  next  to  the  stones  had  become  baked  into  a  tough  but  savory 
crust.  I  believe  that  the  New  England  "clam-bakes"  are  cooked  in  a  similar 
manner,   with  drift  wood   in  pits  in  the   sand   of   the   beaches. 


49 

SILK  AND   SUGAR  PRODUCTION. 

Our  visit  to  Kauai  on  the  occasion  mentioned  above,  extended  from  Koloa 
to  Hanalei.  Koloa  was  occupied  by  Mr.  Gulick,  Hanalei  by  Messrs.  Alexander 
and  Johnson.  Mr,  Gulick  lived  in  a  large  thatched  cottage  of  native  style. 
Of  special  interest  at  Koloa  was  a  silk  farm  conducted  by  Mr.  Titcomb  who 
had  a  few  acres  of  Multicaulis  mulberry  which  were  very  flourishing.  He  had 
also  a  considerable  quantity  of  silk-worms,  which  had  to  be  fed  on  fresh  mul- 
berry leaves.  We  saw  the  worms  making  cocoons,  and  the  various  processes 
of  reeling  the  silk  from  the  cocoons  into  beautiful  and  glossy  skeins.  That 
plantation  failed,  doubtless  in  part  from  lack   of  reliable   skilled  labor. 

There  was  also  a  little  sugar  plantation  at  Koloa,  managed  by  Mr.  Hooper, 
who  was  a  partner  of  William  Ladd  and  P.  A.  Brinsmade,  merchants  of 
Honolulu.  The  crop  could  not  have  exceeded  one  or  two  hundred  tons.  The 
mill  had  small  iron  rollers,  driven  by  water-power.  The  boiling  train  was 
composed  of  rather  flat  pans.  The  syrup  was  crystallized  in  large  jars  like 
conical  flower-pots,  with  a  hole  at  the  apex,  corked  with  cane-bagasse,  which 
when  opened,  allowed  the  molasses  to  drain  out.  A  large  pile  of  sugar 
gathered  from  such  pots  awaited  transportation.  I  gratefully  remember  a 
generous  hunk  of  the  brown  crystals  graciously  bestowed  on  myself  by  Mr. 
Hooper,  who  must  have  been  a  good  sort  of  man.  I  think  that  sugar  plan- 
tation generally  brought  some  profit  to  its  owners,  and  had  a  history  con- 
tinuous with  the  modern  and  very  profitable  Koloa  Plantation.  It  was  the 
earliest  manufactory  of  sugar  in  these  Islands.  At  the  time  of  our  visit, 
the  native  labor  was  hired  at  twelve  and  a  half  cents  a  day,  payable  in  coarse 
cotton  cloth  at  twenty  five  cents  a  yard.  The  natives  were  eager  for  the 
wages,  never  before  having  earned  any.     No  coin  was  used,  only  token-money. 

A  VISIT  AROUND  KAUAI. 

Mr.  Gulick  raised  colts,  and  his  numerous  boys  all  became  expert  horse- 
men. The  oldest,  Halsey,  was  then  eleven  years  old,  a  boy  of  great  bright- 
ness and  loveableness.  Very  interesting  was  a  business  training  for  his 
boys,  instituted  by  Mr.  Gulick,  who  made  money  tokens  of  his  own,  with 
which  the  boys  traded  with  him  and  each  other.  This  cultivated  in  them 
ideas  of  property  value,  and  of  traffic,  which  were  serviceable  throughout  life. 
Orramel,  the  second  boy,  was  then  an  alert  lad  of  nine,  old  enough  to  be  a 
playmate.  Five  brothers  of  this  family  became  remarkable  as  a  peculiarly 
active  and  successful  set  of  foreign  missionaries.  All  still  surviving  ex- 
cept Halsey. 

Mounted  on  good  ponies  by  the  kindness  of  Mr.  Gulick  we  made  a  two 
days  ride  to  Hanalei.  I  remember  that  Mr.  and  Mrs.  H.  O.  Knapp  were  in 
our  party.  Mr.  Knapp  was  a  brother  of  a  lady  who  came  to  Kauai  a  few 
years  later  Mrs.  Dr.  J.  W.  Smith  of  Koloa.  I  remember  that  he  was  very 
neat  in  his  dress  and  wore  gloves  when  riding.  Mrs.  Knapp  afterwards  be- 
came the  stepmother  of  Sanford  B.  Dole,  a  lady  of  very  calm  and  quiet 
efficiency.  The  ride  was  a  delightful  one  through  a  rarely  beautiful  coun- 
try.     At   the  last  descent  into   the  splendid   Hanalei   valley  messengers  from 


50 

Mr.  Alexander  met  us  with  a  larf!;e  bucket  of  cow's  milk,  which  I  was 
thirsty  enough  to  drink,  although  rather  disliking  its  flavor,  being  used  only 
to  goat's  milk.  The  Bishops  found  hospitable  quarters  with  the  then  young 
Alexanders,  who  had  a  comfortable  stone  house.  They  had  three  little  boys, 
the  oldest  now  my  honored  friend  and  "puluna"  of  the  Coast  Survey,  and 
the  youngest  the  genial  sugar-kingj  Sam. 

ENTERTAINED   BY   ROYALTY. 

We  had  a  canoe  ride  up  the  "beautiful  river.  The  great  green  mountain 
towering  over  the  rear  of  the  valley,  made  a  lasting  impression.  I  have  not 
since  seen  the  place  in  62  years.  "We  returned  the  following  week  as  far  as 
Lihue.  There  were  one  or  two  deep  streams  to  cross  in  canoes,  swimming 
the  horses.  At  Wailua,  we  were  entertained  with  very  warm  hospitality  by 
the  Ex-queen  Debora  Tapule  who  had  formed  a  great  affection  for  my  own 
mother  in  "Waimea  in  1824.  On  leaving  she  gave  us  a  large  package  of 
choice  tapas  and  fine  Niihau  mats.  She  lived  in  a  very  large  thatched  cot- 
tage with  a  most  clean  and  comfortable  interior.  Eeaching  the  little  bay 
near  Lihue,  we  spent  there  some  thirty-six  hours.  It  was  long  before  the  days 
of  sugar  plantations  and  cattle  ranches.  The  natives  were  numerous  and 
the  only  inhabitants.  A  schooner  bore  us  speedily  to  Honolulu  with  a  fair 
wind,  which  was  unusual  in  sailing  "to  windward." 

SOCIAL   HONOLULU   IN    THE    THIRTIES. 

"While  at  Ewa  we  increased  our  acquaintance  with  the  few  white  families 
residing  in  Honolulu  not  of  the  Mission.  Mrs.  Charlton  and  Mrs.  Taylor 
have  already  been  spoken  of.  "We  were  once  at  dinner  at  the  house  of  a 
Mrs.  Capt.  Hinkley,  and  repeatedly  at  that  of  Mrs.  Cap+.  Carter,  a  most 
sociable  and  active  lady,  whose  many  descendants  have  greatly  prospered 
here.  We  had  much  acquaintance  with  the  families  of  Messrs.  Ladd  and 
Brinsmade,  who  had  some  church  connection  with  us  unlike  most  of  the 
foreign  residents.  We  saw  much  of  the  sister  of  Dr.  Wood  who  married 
Capt.  Little,  and  after  his  loss  at  sea,  became  Mrs.  Hooper  a  very  lively 
and  agreeable  woman.  I  remember  being  at  the  house  of  Mrs.  Corney,  whose 
two  aged  daughters  still  reside  in  Honolulu.  There  were  several  prominent 
white  men,  whose  faces  w-ere  familiar.  Consul  Jones,  old  Mr.  Eeynolds  and 
old  Mr.  Pitman,  James  Jackson  Jarvis  himself,  barely  of  age,  brought  his 
girl-bride  fresh  from  America,  to  our  house  and  spent  a  fortnight  in  a  very 
jolly  honeymoon  time.  Jarves  afterwards  edited  "The  Polynesian,"  wrote 
Hawaiian  History,  and  became  prominent  in  the  literature  of  Art. 

Mrs.  Captain  Dominis  one  afternoon  made  her  appearance  in  a  boat  on 
the  creek  near  our  house,  bringing  her  little  son  and  made  us  a  very  agree- 
able visit.  The  better  class  of  whites  in  Honolulu  in  the  thirties  were  wont 
to  gather  on  Sunday  mornings  at  the  Seamen's  Bethel,  where  Chaplain  Diell 
held  public  worship.  A  number  of  half-white  youths  also  attended,  some  of 
them  pupils  of  Mr.  Andrew  Johnstone,  who  taught  the  "Charity  School." 
Of  course  our  intimacies  were  with  the  circle  of  missionary  families.  Of 
these  were  the  Binghams  and  Dr.  Judd's  genial  household,  the  very  kind  and 


51 

hospitable  Chamberlains,  the  families  of  Messrs.  E.  O.  Hall  and  Henry  Dimond, 
who  had  charge  of  the  Printing  and  Binding  departments,  and  after  1837 
the  families  of  S.  N.  Castle  and  A.  F.  Cooke.  The  Lowell  Smiths  have  al- 
ready been  named.  Besides  these,  the  families  of  Eev.  Ephraim  Clark  and 
Eev.  Reuben  Tinker  were  intermittently  resident  in  Honolulu.  Altogether  it 
was  a  large  circle  of  warm  hearted  and  enthusiastic  missionaries,  bound  to- 
gether by  the  warmest  of  united  activity  and  purpose. 

THE    STRONG    MAN    OF    THE    MISSION. 

Of  this  mission  circle  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bingham  held  a  certain  leadership,  by 
virtue  of  longer  experience,  and  of  some  superiority  of  intellect  and  capacity. 
All  looked  up  to  Mr.  Bingham,  as  the  strongest  man  of  the  mission,  and  a 
leader.  He  possessed  much  calmness  and  courtesy  of  manner.  The  highest 
testimony  to  the  mental  and  moral  qualities  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bingham  was 
in  the  immense  personal  influence  which  they  acquired  over  the  minds  and 
hearts  of  the  leading  royal  chiefs.  This  ascendancy  made  him  extremely 
obnoxious  to  the  majority  of  the  foreigners,  who  detested  moral  restric- 
tions. As  a  child  I  always  held  him  in  high  honor  and  regard,  with  much 
liking,  mingled  with  a  little  awe.  There  was  another  missionary  couple  on 
Oahu  whom  we  often  met,  and  of  whom  I  have  the  pleasantest  memories 
the  Eev.  B.  W.  Parker  and  wife  of  Kaneohe.  Mrs.  Parker,  now  in  her 
nineties,  is  the  only  white  survivor  of  the  adult  residents  of  Honolulu  in  1836 
when  we  came  here. 

PERSECUTION   OF   THE   CATHOLICS. 

My  father  was  of  habitually  even  temper.  One  of  the  very  few  occasions 
when  I  ever  saw  him  betray  angry  excitement,  was  in  1836,  when  we  saw 
passing  opposite  our  house  at  Ewa  on  the  public  road  one  morning,  a  company 
of  perhaps  forty  Catholic  natives,  who  were  being  led  over  from  Waianae  to 
Honolulu  under  guard  to  receive  at  the  capital  sentence  to  labor  on  the  roads 
for  their  crime  of  worshipping  images,  contrary  to  the  royal  statutes. 
The  good  missionary  was  grieved  to  the  heart,  and  deeply  roused,  to  see  men 
and  women  in  his  parish  suffering  ignominious  punishment  for  the  practise 
of  their  religion,  even  though  he  believed  them  to  be  sadly  misguided.  He 
immediately  mounted  his  horse  and  rode  to  Honolulu  to  expostulate  with 
Kinau  and  Kekuanaoa.  His  remonstrances,  however,  were  ineffectual.  The 
native  rulers  had  adopted  a  determined  policy  of  suppressing  by  force  what 
they  deemed  to  be  real  idol-worship,  forbidden  in  the  second  Commandment. 
I  cannot  personally  testify  that  all  the  Protestant  missionaries  were  equally 
opposed  to  that  persecuting  policy,  although  I  suppose  that  they  were  so. 
This  arbitrary  course  of  the  chiefs  was  put  to  an  end  in  the  following  year 
by  the  visit  of  a  French  warship. 

VISITING   MISSIONARIES. 

Among  the  interesting  incidents  of  the  three  and  a  half  years  of  my  boy- 
hood spent  at  Ewa,  was  a  series  of  visits  from  a  large  party  of  Methodist  mis- 
sionaries on  their  way  to  labor  among  the  Oregon  Indians.     They  had  come 


52 

around  Cape  Horn  as  far  as  Honolulu,  and  were  detained  here  seeking  passage 
to  the  Columbia  and  "Willamette  rivers.  This  may  have  been  in  1838,  Many 
of  them  sojourned  with  us  at  Waiawa  for  more  or  less  time.  Two  quite 
pretty  and  lively  young  ladies  are  remembered,  who  were  on  their  way  to  marry 
missionaries  alroadj'  on  the  ground.  There  was  also  a  maturer  and  most  agree- 
able lady.  Miss  Pitman,  who  was  to  marry  a  leading  missionary  in  Oregon. 
A  Dr.  White,  I  think,  was  at  the  head  of  the  party.  I  believe  that  several 
of  these  good  people  helped  to  make  important  early  history  in  Oregon. 

I  think  that  none  of  the  Oregon  missionaries  of  the  American  Board  came 
out  by  this  route,  nor  were  their  names  familiar.  An  exploring  pioneer,  the 
Kev.  Samuel  Parker,  spent  some  time  among  us,  on  his  way  home,  and  is  well 
remembered.  The  name  of  their  station,  Walla  Walla,  was  familiar.  At  that 
time  Hawaii  had  some  commercial  intercourse  with  the  Columbia  River,  oi 
"Keomolewa"  as  our  natives  called  it.  Some  "spruce"  lumber  was  imported 
thence.  My  first  taste  of  an  apple  was  one  from  Oregon  in  1839.  My  fathei 
was  enthusiastic  in  once  more  tasting  the  familiar  fruit  of  his  boyhood  aftei 
seventeen  years.  I  did  not  relish  it.  Landing  in  Newport,  R.  I.,  in  May,  1840 
from  a  sis  months'  voyage  in  a  whaler  around  the  Horn,  I  eagerly  invested 
three  cents  in  four  russet  apples.  After  biting  into  two  of  them,  I  threw  the 
whole  over  a  fence.  But  I  had  been  for  several  weeks  luxuriating  upon  luscious 
oranges  bought  in  Pernambuco  for  twenty-five  cents  a  hundred.  However,  ] 
failed  to  appreciate  the  finest  apples,  peaches,  or  plums  until  the  long  sharj 
cold  of  winter.  I  longed  for  sugar  cane,  bananas,  and  melons.  By  Februarj 
apples  began  to  taste  good. 

MISSIONARY  REINFORCEMENT   OP   1837. 

To  my  own  mind,  the  most  exciting  event  that  Ewa  period,  was  th( 
arrival  in  May,  1837,  of  the  "Mary  Frazier,  with  a  great  reinforcemem 
of  new  missionaries.  There  was  a  company  of  thirty-four  persons,  including 
five  ordained  men,  nine  teachers,  one  physician,  and  one  circular  agent 
with  their  wives,  besides  two  single  ladies.  Five  of  those  families,  Bailey 
Castle,  Cooke,  Johnson  and  Wilcox,  became  permanently  identified  with  thes( 
Islands.  The  others  had  all  left  in  less  than  twenty  years  except  Misi 
Lucia  Smith,  who  became  the  second  wife  of  Eev.  Lorenzo  Lyons.  The  vener 
able  Edward  Bailey,  who  was  the  youngest  man  of  the  company,  is  their  soh 
survivor,  at  the  age  of  eighty-seven.  Such  a  large  and  strong  accession  to  ou: 
already  most  successful  but  much  overworked  mission,  was  a  cause  of  th( 
greatest  gratification  and  excitement.  The  assignment  of  these  new  people  t( 
their  various  stations  much  prolonged  the  work  of  the  General  Meeting  of  1837 
Of  the  five  ordained  men,  none  proved  to  be  of  more  than  average  ability 
except  the  Eev.  Thomas  Laf on,  M.  D.,  who  had  great  natural  force  of  mind  anc 
character. 

AN    ANTI-SLAVERY    ENTHUSIAST. 

He  was  a  product  of  great  Revival  and  Anti-Slavery  movements  of  those 
days  and  had  himself  set  free  his  inherited  slaves.  Dr.  Lafon  was  an  en 
thusiast    in    anti-slavery   matters.      He    found    much   fault    with    our    old    mis 


53 

sionaries  for  not  paying  fixed  wages  to  tlieir  ohuas,  or  servants.  He  de- 
nounced it  as  a  form  of  slavery.  My  parents  felt  that  to  be  unreasonable,  as 
our  servants  were  envied  by  all  the  common  people  for  their  advantages  and 
coveted  positions.  The  zealous  Doctor's  expostulations  so  prevailed,  however, 
that  from  that  time  on,  the  missionaries  paid  their  servants  fixed  wages.  It 
is  probable  that  Dr.  Lafon's  zeal  for  freedom  may  have  somewhat  contributed 
to  hasten  the  emancipation  of  the  Hawaiian  makaainanas  from  serfdom,  and 
their  endowment  with  their  kuleana  allotments  in  fee  simple  a  few  years  later. 
Dr.  Lafon  returned  to  America  in  four  or  five  years,  afterwards  becoming 
eminent  as  a  very  benevolent  medical  practitioner.  Among  the  fruits  of  his 
strenuous  influence  here  was  the  strong  opposition  which  he  enlisted  among  our 
missionaries  against  the  compromising  attitude  of  the  American  Board  towards 
what  the  Abolitions  denounced  as  the  "hellish  sin  of  slavery."  In  the  course 
of  a  few  years  this  led  to  the  withdrawal  from  their  connection  with  the  Board, 
of  the  Eevs.  Eeuben  Tinker,  and  J.  S.  Green,  and  of  Dr.  Lafon  himself,  all  of 
them  among  our  best  missionaries.  They  felt  unable  longer  to  receive  pecuniary 
support  from  a  Board  so  implicated  with  the  sin  of  slavery.  Only  Mr.  Green 
found  means  to  maintain  himself  in  the  field;  the  other  two  good  men  left  the 
Islands.  The  consciences  of  the  rest  of  the  missionaries  failed  to  be  awakened 
upon  the  subject  enough  to  make  them  abandon  their  work. 

THE    GREAT    REVIVAL. 

I  here  pass  on  to  record  what  I  can  recall  of  the  greatest  events  of  those 
days,  and  one  that  did  more  than  any  other  to  give  permanent  shape  to  tho 
subsequent  history  of  Hawaii.  That  was  the  intense  and  pervading  Religious 
Awakening  of  the  years  1838  and  1839.  To  enter  very  deeply  into  the  tremen- 
dous tide  of  feeling  which  enveloped  and  uplifted  the  whole  nation  for  many 
months,  was  not  possible  at  my  age  of  eleven,  with  my  nearly  entire  ignorance 
of  the  native  language.  There  was  a  great  multiplication  of  religious  meetings, 
attended  by  enormous  congregations.  Our  great  church  on  the  hill  would  hold 
one  thousand  people,  with  four  hundred  more  standing  in  the  encircling  veran- 
dahs. It  finally  became  necessary  to  cover  the  north  side  of  the  church  yard 
with  a  lanai,  which  would  seat  six  thousand  people.  On  several  occasions  this 
space  was  well  filled,  the  preacher  standing  near  the  church  door,  so  as  to  be 
heard  by  those  sitting  inside  of  the  church. 

One  Sunday  morning,  before  the  removal  to  out-doors,  an  impression  still 
vivid  was  made  on  my  mind  by  a  strange  intensity  of  tone,  and  exaltation  of 
feeling  in  my  father  in  his  pulpit.  Ordinarily  he  had  no  forcible  eloquence,  his 
usual  manner  being  rather  mild  and  colloquial.  On  this  occasion,  he  was  entirely 
carried  out  of  himself,  and  spoke  in  an  impassioned  strain  of  intense  fervor, 
finally  calling  out  in  a  strange  thrilling  tone  to  the  crowd  of  sensual  sinners  be- 
fore him,  "U'oki!  u'oki!"  (Stop!  stopi)  I  have  always  felt  that  he  was  for 
the  time  a  veritable  prophet,  uplifted  above  his  human  capacity  by  a  super- 
natural inspiration.  I  have  many  times  afterwards  witnessed  such  a  Divine 
afflatus  taking  possession  of  preachers  in  times  of  Revival,  when  the  Holy  Spirit 
was  present  in  great  power.  At  similar  times  it  has  been  my  own  experience  to 
be  in  the  same  way  uplifted  quite  out  of  my  usually  inefficient  delivery,  and 


54 

to  bo  swept  forward  upon  a  Divine  tide  which  seized  upon  hearers  and  preacher 
alike.  The  supernatural  and  divine  character  of  the  phenomenon  is  matter  of 
personal  conviction  and  certainty. 

A  NATIONAL  PENTECOST. 

During  those  marvellous  months,  that  strange  and  wonderful  mental  and 
spiritual  uplift  pervaded  the  whole  Hawaiian  nation  to  its  remotest  extremities. 
Every  missionary  experienced  it  in  his  own  field  and  his  own  spirit.  The  revival 
spread  like  a  fire  from  island  to  island,  enveloping  the  whole  people.  It  was  a 
veritable  national  Pentecost,  in  which  hundreds  and  thousands  every  week  were 
converted  to  Christ,  with  intense  manifestations  of  feeling.  In  my  father's 
great  congregations,  such  emotional  excitement  was  not  attended  by  any  out- 
cries or  noisy  expression,  but  there  was  much  weeping,  as  I  recollect  it.  As  I 
recall  those  days,  I  do  not  seem  to  have  participated  in  the  popular  excitement, 
except  as  a  much  interested  childish  spectator.  My  mother  seemed  much  trou- 
bled about  my  "hardness  of  heart,"  w'hich  was  mere  juvenile  incapacity.  Four 
years  later  in  Kochester,  I  became  intensely  wrought  upon  under  the  preaching 
of  Finney. 

A  very  notable  incident  of  those  days  was  my  father's  administration  of 
baptism  to  four  hundred  converts  on  one  Sabbath  morning,  the  ordinance  occupy- 
ing two  hours'  time.  Each  person  received  a  Christian  baptismal  name,  attended 
by  the  application  of  water  to  the  forehead.  There  had  been  a  thorough  preli- 
minary organization  of  the  four  hundred  people  into  groups  of  ten  or  twelve 
each.  Each  group  was  in  charge  of  a  luna,  who  held  a  list  of  their  names  in 
the  order  in  which  they  sat.  These  forty  groups  occupied  a  large  space  in  the 
great  lanai.  The  pastor  moved  among  them  with  an  attendant  deacon  carrying 
the  font,  a  sponge  being  in  the  minister's  hand.  When  he  approached  a  group, 
they  knelt  down  before  him.  Taking  the  prepared  list,  he  named  them  in  suc- 
cession, applying  the  wet  sponge  to  the  forehead  of  each  person  when  named, 
thus:  "John,  Zebedee,  Martha,  Timothy,  Dorcas,  etc.,  I  baptize  you  all  (oukou 
apau)  into  the  name,  etc. ' '  Generally  each  convert  had  selected  a  Bible  name 
for  himself,  the  pastor  correcting  any  injudicious  choice,  such  as  Iscariot,  or 
Herodias,  or  Beelzebub. 

BAPTIZING  WITH  A  BRUSH. 

The  ordinance  was  deeply  impressive,  and  was  witnessed  by  six  thousand 
people  from  Waianae  and  Ewa.  In  his  parish  of  Hilo,  the  Eev.  Titus  Coan  used 
much  less  ceremony  in  administering  baptism  to  over  five  thousand  persons  in 
one  year,  and  to  twelve  hundred  at  a  single  service.  He  sprinkled  each  group 
with  a  brush  as  a  whole,  without  calling  off  their  individual  names.  It  might 
have  been  impossible  to  reach  the  whole  twelve  hundred  by  any  other  method. 
How  the  twelve  apostles  and  their  helpers  baptized  three  thousand  disciples 
on  the  day  of  Pentecost  we  are  not  told.  After  witnessing  that  two  hours' 
sprinkling  of  four  hundred,  I  hope  my  Baptist  brethren  will  exercise  charity  to- 
wards some  incredulity  on  my  part  about  the  three  thousand  Jews  having  been 
immersed  in  one  day.  To  have  immersed  his  four  hundred  would  probably 
have  exceeded  any  of  my  father's  fairly  good  organizing  capacity,  without  some 


55 

sacrifice  of  decorum,  such  as  making  them  dive  off  a  bank,  a  score  at  a  time. 
How  Peter  managed  it,  if  not  by  sprinkling,  must  be  guessed  at,  subject  to  rea- 
sonable limitations  of  propriety.  It  would  seem  as  if  the  method  of  applying 
the  water  of  baptism  must  allow  of  much  latitude. 

It  had  always  been  the  practice  of  the  missionaries  in  Hawaii  to  enforce  a 
probation  of  six  months  upon  candidates  for  membership  in  the  Church,  before 
their  admission  by  the  rite  of  Baptism.  During  that  probation,  they  were  known 
as  "poe  Hooikaika, "  or  strivers.  Usually  many  of  them  would  fail  to  stand 
fast  through  the  six  months  without  lapsing  into  the  prevailing  sin  of  unehastity. 
During  this  Awakening  my  father,  like  most  of  his  brethren,  did  not  deviate 
from  the  old  rule  as  to  probation.  I  believe  that  Mr.  Coan  and  Mr.  Lyons  bap- 
tized their  converts  verj'  promptly,  and  experienced  much  falling  away  in  conse- 
quence. The  records  show  that  those  two  ardent  souls  baptized  as  many  con- 
verts as  all  the  rest  of  the  missionaries  together.  For  a  whole  generation  those 
two  churches  of  Hilo  and  Waimea  held  precedence  among  the  Hawaiian  churches 
in  strength  and  activity. 

CHARACTERISTICS   OF  TITUS   COAN. 

From  the  time  of  his  entrance  in  1835  upon  missionary  labor  in  Hawaii,  Titus 
Coan  had  shown  exceptional  spiritual  fervor,  combined  with  a  rarely  winning 
manner.  He  would  anywhere  have  proved  an  evangelist  or  revivalist  of  unusual 
force.  When  he  first  arrived  at  Honolulu  in  1835,  he  held  meetings  with  us  chil- 
dren of  the  older  missionaries,  which  are  recalled  as  very  moving  and  winning. 
We  youngsters  used  to  hang  upon  Mr.  Coan's  words,  and  formed  a  deep  personal 
attachment  to  the  new  missionary.  Three  of  the  older  ones  made  public  pro- 
fession of  religion  in  1836,  in  consequence.  I  later  became  aware  how  the 
rugged  old  Calvinistic  theology  had  served  to  impede  my  natural  spiritual  de- 
velopment, and  to  discourage  a  free  childlike  taking  hold  upon  the  lovely  and 
gracious  Divine  Power.  But  the  fault  lay  in  the  strenuous  and  ungracious  home 
teaching,  and  not  in  Mr.  Coan's  attractive  invitations. 

LIBERALIZING    EFFECT    OF   THE    REVIVAL. 

I  think  that  the  older  pioneers  of  our  Mission  had  but  limited  experience, 
if  any,  of  the  intense  Eevival  activity  which  so  roused  and  multiplied  the 
American  churches  between  1825  and  1845.  Those  devoted  and  faithful  fathers, 
however,  laid  deep  fountains.  In  their  second  decade  there  came  to  them,  bring- 
ing fresh  spiritual  fire  from  the  great  Finney  revivals,  such  men  as  Lorenzo 
Lyons,  Sheldon  Dibble,  Reuben  Tinker,  Lowell  Smith  and  Titus  Coan,  men  who 
abounded  in  the  divine  afflatus,  and  spoke  straight  to  the  hearts  of  the  already 
listening  heathen.  Thus,  from  diligent  early  seed-sowing,  and  later  divine  water- 
ing, burst  forth  the  great  Awakening  of  Hawaii,  which  revolutionized  the  life 
and  thought  of  the  old  sluggish,  sensual,  childish  heathen  race,  and  lifted  them 
all,  people  and  chiefs,  up  to  a  new  and  exalted  plane  of  hope  and  purpose.  It 
was  this  spiritual  revolution  of  the  Hawaiians,  which  made  not  only  possible, 
but  inevitable,  the  immediately  following  political  evolution,  in  which  the  serfs 
were  freed  and  endowed  with  lands,  just  laws  were  enacted.  Royal  power  lim- 


56 

itod  by  a  liberal  Constitution,  and  Eeprcsentative  Government  established.  All 
this  was  accomplished  by  the  cordial  cooperation  of  Monarch  and  Chiefs,  within 
less  than  ten  years  after  the  great  Bevival.  That  was  the  turning  point  in 
Hawaiian  history.  Having  been  effectually  Christianized  by  their  great  Pente- 
cost, and  imbued  with  pervading  and  reverent  moral  sentiment,  the  Hawaiian 
spontaneously  proceeded  to  seek  organization  under  civilized  law  and  order.  The 
great  religious  Awakening  of  1838-9  was  thus  the  decisive  shaping  of  Hawaiian 
political  life.  It  rendered  Hawaii  thence  forward  the  bright  center  of  Christian 
Civilization  in  the  Mid-Pacific.  That  Civilization  had  a  vitality  and  strength 
that  surmounted  the  efforts  of  later  degraded  monarchs  to  resuscitate  the  old 
heathen  idolatry  and  despotism. 

THE    MISSION    "GENERAL    MEETINGS." 

In  closing  these  reminiscences  of  my  days  of  childhood,  mention  needs  to 
be  made  of  the  remarkable  concentration  of  spiritual  force  which  I  witnessed  in 
the  "General  Meetings,"  which  were  held  yearly  in  Honolulu,  to  which  all  the 
Mission  families  gathered.  Their  daily  sessions  were  held  during  from  four  to 
six  weeks  of  each  year  in  the  old  school  house,  which  still  stands  in  the  rear 
of  Kawaiahao  church.  Often  some  forty  or  more  of  the  missionaries  besides 
their  wives  were  present,  as  well  as  many  of  the  older  children.  As  a  boy  I 
was  often  present  in  those  meetings,  with  deep  interest  in  many  of  the  discus- 
sions. Much  business  was  transacted  relating  to  the  multifarious  work  and 
business  of  the  Mission.  New  missionaries  were  to  be  located,  and  older  ones 
transferred.  Expenditures  upon  schools,  printing,  dwellings,  etc.,  were  decided 
upon.  Assignments  of  work  were  made  in  translating,  revising  and  writing 
books.  Annual  reports  of  the  American  Board  were  agreed  upon,  including  ad- 
vice upon  changes  of  policy  and  management. 

FRATERNAL   SPIRIT   OF   MISSIONARIES. 

While  serious  differences  of  opinion  would  arise,  and  warmth  of  discussion 
occasionally  appear,  I  think  it  never  grew  to  bitterness.  There  always  prevailed 
a  spirit  not  only  of  forbearance  and  harmony,  but  of  very  warm  fraternal  affec- 
tion. Such  is  my  recollection  of  what  I  heard  and  saw.  The  general  impression 
continues  very  deep  upon  my  memory,  of  a  lofty  and  profound  spiritual  enthus- 
iasm which  pervaded  all  the  conference  and  counsellings  of  this  noble  band. 
They  were  ardent  believers  in  the  conversion  of  the  heathen  to  Christ.  They 
felt  a  great  courage  in  witnessing  the  wonderful  work  going  on  in  their  churches. 
They  had  a  very  fervent  faith  in  a  coming  triumph  of  the  Gospel  in  all  heathen 
lands.  The  business  of  their  Lord  and  His  Gospel  stood  supreme  in  all  their 
thoughts.  In  the  expectation  of  His  victory  they  were  hopeful,  joyful,  ardent 
and  fervent  in  spirit. 

That  old  school  house  witnessed  many  rare  hours  and  days  of  most  con- 
secrated and  blessed  conference,  which  deeply  stirred  even  our  childish  minds 
and  spirits.  Memory  has  doubtless  retained  chiefly  what  was  best  and  highest. 
It  is  remembered  as  a  living  realization  of  the  hymn: 


57 

"To  each  the  soul  of  each,  how  dear; 
What  tender  love,  what  holy  fear! 

Their  ardent  prayers  together  rise, 
Like  mingling  flames  in  sacrifice." 

In  November,  1839,  at  the  age  of  nearly  thirteen,  I  left  this  scene  of  high 
missionary  activity,  to  embark  on  the  whaler  "William  Lee,"  for  a  voyage  of 
six  months  to  United  States,  where  I  remained  twelve  years,  taking  College  and 
Seminary  courses,  and  returning  again  around  the  Cape  to  Honolulu  with  my  wife 
after  more  than  thirteen  years'  absence.  We  hope  to  celebrate  our  golden  wed- 
ding ten  months  hence. 


/Memories  of  Old  Honolulu 

"Wlien  I  itturned  to  Honolulu  in  1853,  after  an  absence  of  thirteen  years, 
I  was  slrucl:  by  the  many  changes. 

"Primarily  civilization  had  advanced  among  the  native  Hawaiian  people. 
They  Avere  then  generally  clothed,  which  they  were  not  when  I  went  away. 

"The  major  portion  of  the  residents  of  Honolulu,  however,  still  lived  in 
thatched  houses.  In  fact,  the  town  was  almost  entirely  composed  of  this  kind  of 
dwellings, 

"One  of  the  greatest  changes  was  in  the  cutting  through  of  the  roads.  Nqu- 
anu  avenue  had  been  opened  its  entire  length  and  Fort  street  had  been  opened 
aa  a  driveway.    These  had  not  previously  been  open. 

"AVhen  I  went  awaj  there  were  only  the  Punchbowl  road,  Beretania  street, 
King  .street  and  Merchant  street.    This  was  the  condition  of  the  city  in  1840. 

PASSING  OF  THE  FORT. 

"Another  great  change  was  the  disappearance  of  the  old  fort,  from  which 
the  street  takes  its  name.  This  old  fort  stood  where  the  Hackfeld  building  now 
stands,  the  site  being,  of  course,  larger. 

"I'lw  esplanade  which  has  for  so  long  been  the  seat  of  much  business  was 
not.  then  in  existence.  The  land  then  ceased  considerably  above  the  point  where 
the  Custorcs  House  now  stands. 

"All  Government  business  was  then  conducted  in  the  old  building  which 
no^  stands  just  waikiki  of  the  postoffice.  The  various  offices  were  there,  and  I 
remember  well  seeing  as  clerks  in  the  finance  office  under  Dr.  Judd,  Warren 
Goodale  and  Asa  Thurston,  fathers  respectively  of  William  Goodale  of  Waialua 
plaiitalioii  and  L.  A.  Thurston.  Charles  R.  Bishop  was  then  in  the  Customs 
House  as  collector. 

CITY    LIMITS    IN    1853. 

"The  setlled  portion  of  the  city  was  then  substantially  limited  by  the  pres- 
ent Alapai  and  River  streets  and  mauka  at  School  street.  There  was  hardly 
anything  outside  of  those  limits  and  the  remainder  was  practically  an  open  plain. 

"Above  Beretania  street,  on  the  slopes  and  beyond  Alapai  street,  there  was 
hardly  a  building  of  any  nature  whatev^er. 

"At  that  time  there  was  a  small  boarding  school  for  the  children  of  the 
missions  at  Punahou,  under  direction  of  Father  Dole.  This  little  structure  alone 
intervened  between  the  city  and  Moiliili,  where  about  the  church  there  were  a 
feiv  houses.  These  were  all  of  the  native  thatched  kind  and  were  inhabited  by 
th^  native  people. 

"The  plains  remained  open  until  within  twenty-five  years,  before  there  was 
any  building  there  of  any  description. 

"Another  feature  which  was  noticeable  was  the  absence  of  a  variety  of 
foliage.  The  almost  universal  algaroba  tree  was  then  only  to  be  found  in  the 
gardens  and  yards,  as  it  was  a  new  comer  and  had  not  begun  to  spread.  There 
were  few  trees  and  the  palms  were  not  in  great  variety  at  that  time. 

"We  came  down  in  the  largest  sailing  ship  of  that  day,  the  Sovereign  of 
the  Seas,  arriving  here  in  January,  1853, 


59 

SHIP    TOWING    IN    1853. 

"The  ship  was  towed  into  the  harbor  by  a  long  line  of  native  people  who 
grasped  the  hawser  and  walked  along  the  reef.  It  was  after  this  that  oxen  were 
substituted  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  in  ships. 

"There  Avas  a  path  along  the  reef  which  bound  the  entrance,  which  is  a  uat- 
ural  break  in  the  outer  reef,  and  along  this  the  men  and  oxen  walked  in  pulling 
in  a  ship,  marching  through  the  water. 

"Inside  the  harbor  we  found  probably  100  whaling  ships  of  from  300  to  500 
tons.  These  had  come  in  with  oil  and  were  waiting  to  reship.  Our  big  ship  was 
soon  surrounded  by  the  whalers,  two  on  each  side,  which  began  at  once  to  trans- 
fer into  her  the  barrels  of  oil  for  shipment  to  New  York. 

BASIS  OF  BUSINESS   IN   1853. 

"The  main  business  here  then  was  the  dealing  with  the  w-haling  fleet,  of 
which  there  were  not  less  than  250  ships  which  were  in  the  habit  of  calling  at 
Honolulu,  Lahaina  and  Hilo,  generally  twice  during  a  year.  Their  summer 
months  they  spent  in  the  Okhotsk  and  Behring  seas  and  in  the  Arctic  ocean, 
taking  the  right  whales  v/hich  then  were  abundant  in  those  seas.  In  the  winter 
they  went  south  or  to  Japan.  This  gave  them  a  chance  to  make  the  year  very 
full,  for  they  left  their  oil  here  for  reshipment  and  thus  with  refitting  were  en- 
abled to  put  in  almost  the  entire  season  at  sea, 

TYPE    OF    ARCHITECTURE. 

"There  were  very  few  structures  of  the  American  or  European  styles  of 
architecture  or  building.  There  were  a  few  houses  of  wood  and  stone,  the  latter 
predominating.  There  were  several  fairly  commodious  and  handsome  buildings 
occupied  by  the  well-to-do  merchants.  Now  there  are  scarcely  any  traces  of  the 
old  buildings  which  were  then  accounted  so  good. 

"I  can  remember  only  one  historical  building,  that  being  the  main  room 
formerly  occupied  by  Hackfeld  &  Co.,  at  the  rear  of  their  new  building.  That 
was  at  that  time  the  Legislative  and  Judiciary  building. 

"Kawaiahao  church  was  then  much  in  the  same  condition  as  now. 

"On  the  site  of  the  lately  destroyed  Kaumakapili  church  there  was  a 
structure  of  adobe  and  thatch. 

"The  present  Catholic  Cathedral  was  then  in  existence.  But,  as  I  said,  the 
major  portion  of  the  dwellings  of  the  city  wore  the  thatched  ones  of  the  native 
people. 

NATIVES  IN  MAJORITY. 

"The  native  population  formed  the  great  body  of  the  population  then  seen 
upon  the  streets.  They  were  always  moving  about  and  at  work.  They  bore  bur- 
dens upon  the  Hawaiian  yoke,  or  mamake,  which  with  its  load  at  both  ends, 
very  much  resembled  the  method  of  carrying  which  is  followed  by  the  Chinese 
at  the  present  time. 

"The  men  at  work  generally  wore  shirts  but  nothing  more  in  the  way  of 
apparel. 


60 

TRANSPORTATION   WAS   PRIMITIVE. 

' '  At  that  time  there  was  scarcely  a  wheeled  vehicle  in  the  city.  Those  which 
were  to  be  seen  were  ox  carts,  with  occasionally  a  hand  cart. 

"Saddle  horses  were  here  in  very  small  numbers.  Thirteen  years  before 
when  I  left  home  there  were  no  saddle  horses,  or  practically  none.  When  I  re- 
turned I  found  that  the  few  here  were  held  very  high,  from  $75  to  $150  each. 
But  the  matter  of  horseback  riding  became  such  a  craze  that  within  ten  years 
the  prices  of  horses  had  fallen  to  from  $10  to  $50  each.  In  fact,  in  1860  one 
could  get  a  very  fair  riding  horse  for  from  $10  to  $15. 

SUGAR   AND   BEEF   SCARCE— WAGES   LOW. 

"At  the  time  of  which  I  speak  there  were  no  large  plantations  or  rancucs). 
The  cattle  were  just  beginning  to  multiply  upon  Oahu,  and  beef  was  generally 
obtainable  where  ten  years  before  it  had  been  very  scarce  indeed. 

"At  the  time  of  which  I  am  telling  ycu  the  wages  of  the  workmen  of  the 
country  were  very  low.  The  rate  of  pay  for  a  native  worker  was  about  25  cents 
a  day  on  the  average.  There  were  no  Chinese  in  the  country  except  a  few  trad- 
ers. There  were,  too,  a  few  Lascars  scattered  about,  but  they  were  very  few. 
They  had  come  here  as  sailors,  and  had  remained  on  the  islands.  There  were 
also  a  few  Cape  Verde  Portuguese,  who  had  come  here  in  whalers  and  liked  the 
place. 

"The  native  people  at  this  time  had  declined  to  about  80,000,  but  were  the 
most  conspicuous  element  of  the  population. 

"There  were  very  few  half -white  people,  as  most  of  those  who  are  so  well 
known  and  remembered  are  of  a  later  period. 

ROADS   IN    1853. 

"The  roads  of  the  time  were  a  great  improvement  upon  those  of  the  earlier 
days,  but  were  still  very  inferior  to  what  they  should  have  been.  The  principal 
ones  wer'^  a  horse  trail,  which  led  to  the  Pali,  and  Dr.  Judd  had  extended  and 
reconstructed  that  down  the  other  side  until  there  was  a  good  horse  trail  con- 
necting the  city  with  the  various  districts  on  the  Koolau  side  of  the  island. 

"There  was  a  very  passable  road  down  Ewa  and  "Waianae  way. 

"Once  while  making  the  trip  down  to  Waialua,  to  which  there  was  a  good 
horse  trail,  I  discovered  that  even  at  that  early  day  the  cattle  had  made  great 
inroads  into  the  forests  of  ti  plants  which  had  theretofore  clad  the  foothills  anu 
upland  pasturages,  even  to  the  highest  tracts. 

THE    WAIKIKI    ROAD. 

"There  was  probably  a  horse  trail  to  Waikiki,  out  there  were  only  a  few 
houses  of  the  native  dwellers  there. 

"The  natives  took  to  horseback  riding  with  great  facility  and  it  is  true 
that  as  the  horses  became  cheap  and  everyone  had  his  horse,  the  people  gave  up 
surf  riding,  as  though  their  idea  was  to  have  rapid  progress  and  they  abandoned 
the  older  method  for  the  newer  one.  The  sport  of  surf  riding  was  even  disap- 
pearing when  I  returned,  though  some  of  the  outlying  islands  had  a  great  deal 
of  it. 


61 

ANTI-MISSIONARIES. 

"The  foreign  community  was  when  I  returned  much  as  it  had  beeil  when 
last  I  was  here.  There  were  the  two  elements — the  missiorary  families  and  the 
white  men  who  were  engaged  in  business.  There  was  still  a  great  deal  of  feel- 
ing between  the  two  elements,  but  it  was  abating,  and  finally  almost  entirely 
passed  away. 

"There  were  a  few  of  the  older  missionary  families  living  here,  making 
their  headquarters  about  the  Kawaiahao  church  sttlement,  but  once  a  year  there 
was  always  a  gathering  here  for  the  convocation  in  May,  when  the  missionaries 
met  in  the  old  Kawaiahao  school  house,  which  stands  still  at  the  rear  of  the 
church. 

REASON  FOR  DIFFERENCES. 

"Perhaps  the  real  reason  for  the  differences  which  were  then  so  startling 
"were  that  the  missionaris  were  engaged  in  endeavoring  to  reform  the  deeply  de- 
grnded  morals  of  the  Hawaiians,  while  the  members  of  the  other  portion  of  the 
community  were  by  no  means  seeking  such  an  end.  This  created  the  greatest 
friction  and  there  were  constant  clashes  between  the  two  classes,  but  the  pres- 
ence in  both  of  good  women  made  it  possible  for  time  effectively  to  abate  this 
friction. 

"When  we  returned  we  often  saw  the  two  young  princes,  afterward  Kame- 
hameha  IV  and  Kamehameha  V,  on  the  street.  They  were  dressed  with  care  and 
carried  themselves  with  great  dignity.  The  old  missionaries  had  by  no  means 
lost  their  influence,  and  were  still  as  a  body  full  of  activity." 


INDEX 


PAGE. 

Adobe   buildings,    How  made 42 

After-glow  sunsets,  Discovery  of,  cause  of  10 
Agricultural  conditions  in  Hawaii,   Early.  29 
Alexander,     Rev.    W.     P.,     Data    concern- 
ing     49,  50 

Anderson,     Rev.    Rufus,    Description    and 

character   of    41 

Andrews,  Rev.  Lorrin,  Data  concerning.  .  34 

Andrews,    Dr.,    Data    concerning 17 

Animals      in       Hawaii.         See       "Cattle," 

"Horses,"   "Pigs." 
Anti-missionary  foreigners.   Data   concern- 
ing    27,   28,  29,  60 

Anti-slavery   movement    in    Hawaii 52,  53 

Bailey,    Edward,   Data   concerning 41 

Baldwin,    Dwight,    Data    concerning 23 

Bible,   Translation  of  into  Hawaiian 16 

Bingham,    Rev.   Hiram,    Data   concerning.  51 
Bishop,     Rev.     Artemas,     Data     concern- 
ing  4,   30,  41,  43,  46,   51,   53,  54 

Bishop,    Mrs.    Cornelia   A.    Sessions,    Data 

concerning 6 

Bishop,   Mrs.   Delia   Stone,   Data   concern- 
ing     4 

Bishop,     Mrs.     Elizabeth    Edwards,     Data 

concerning    4 

Bishop  Rings,   Discoverer   of,   cause   of...  10 
Bishop,    S.    E.,    Trip    to    states,    education 

and  marriage   of .  .         6,  57 
"                 Return    to    Hawaii,    loca- 
tion  at  Lahaina 6 

"                 Removal  to   Hana 7 

"                  Removal  to  Lahainaluna.  7 

"                Removal    to   Honolulu.  .  .  7 
"                 Exploration  of  West  Maui 

by 7 

"  Work   as   a   surveyor   and 

land   dealer 7 

Theology  of 7 

"  Interest  of   in   social   and 

scientific  questions.  .  .  .  9-10 

"                  Editor   of    "Friend" 9 

"                 Attitude       toward       over- 
throw of   Monarchy. . .  9 
"                 Discoverer     of     cause     of 
sunset     after-glow     and 

Bishop  Rings 10 

Birthplace    of    22 

"  Reminiscences       of       first 

published    .    3 

"  Recollections  of  by  L.  A. 

Thurston 7 

Boarding    Schools,    Missionary 41 

Bridges,    None   in   Hawaii   until    1840....  45 
Buildings;    See   "Mission'   Buildings." 

Canoe,   Travel  by 18,  22,  28,  50 

Catholics,    Persecution    of 51 

Cattle,    .Source   and  supply  of 16,    19,  39 

Chamberlain,  Mr.,  Data  concerning 34 

Charlton,    Richard,    Described 35 

Chief,     Character    and    arrest    of    a    Ha- 
waiian      47 

Chiefs,    Hawaiian,    Description    and    data 

concerning.    Customs   of 

12,   13,    14,   18,  22,  25, 

26,    29,    30,    32,    34,   43,    47,    48,    50,    51,  56 

Church,  First  stone  in  islands 33 

Church   service  in   early  days 36 

Clothing   of   missionaries 15 

Clothing,  Native 14,  30,  44,  47,  58,  59,  61 

Coan,  Rev.  Titus,  Data  concerning. 21,  54,  55 
Common   people.       See   "Natives." 

Conscience,  None  west  of  Cape  Horn.  ...  28 

Cook,  Capt.,  Native  version  of  death  of.  .  26 


PAGE. 

Cooke,   Rev.   A.   S.,   Data  concerning.  .  .47,  48 

Dole,    Rev.   Daniel 58 

Education    of    Mission     children 

5,   20,   21,   30,   38,   40 

Education  of  natives.  Difficulties  of .  .  .  .40,  41 
Emerson,  Rev.  John  S.,  Data  concerning.  45 
English,  Difficulty  of  teaching  natives.  ...      40 

Ewa   church.    Building   of 41 

Ewa  Mission  premises  described 42,   44 

Ewa,  Morals  of,  life  in 43 

Ewa,   Removal  of  Bishop  to 41 

Ewa,   Weather  at 31 

Fast   days.    Method   of   keeping 23 

Fire,    Native  method  of  making 27 

Fishing,    Native    methods    of 28 

Flour,  Condition  of  mission  supply  of .  .  .  16 
Food   supply,    Source   and   character   of   in 

Hawaii 13,    14,    15,    16,    29,    44,    60 

Forbes,    Cochran,    Data    concerning 23 

Fort,    Honolulu,    Passing   of 58 

Friend,   Bishop  editor  of 9 

Fruits    and    vegetables    available 

15,    16,    38,    39,   44 

Goats,  Milk  and  meat  supply  of 16,   43 

Goat  stealing.    Penalty  for .  *. 42 

Government,     Hawaiian,    Effect    of    great 

revival  on    55 

Green,  Rev.  J.  S.,  Data  concerning 53 

Gulick,    Mr.,    Data    concerning 49 

Hanalei,    Description    of 50 

Hawaiian.    See  "Natives,"  "Chiefs,"  "Gov- 
ernment." 
Heathenism,  Revival  of  by  Kalakaua....      22 

Heathenism,     Survival    of 12 

Heiau  of  Puukohala,  Data  concerning.  .  .      24 

Hilo,    Visit    to 25 

Honolulu,    Life    in,    described 34,    35,   58 

Honolulu   society   in   the   thirties   described     50 

Horses,    Use   and   price   of 29,   60 

Idol  worship.  Survival  of,  at  Kailua.  ...  12 
Inter-island  transportation  described.  22,  31,  32 
Jarvis,   James   Jackson,    Data   concerning.      50 

Johnson,    Rev.,    Data   concerning 49 

Judd,     Dr.,     Introduced    Royal    Palm    to 

Hawaii 6 

Kaahumanu,  Hawaiian  Chief,  described.  36,  47 
Kaawaloa,   Visit  to   and  description  of..  22,   23 
Kailua     church.     Destruction     and     recon- 
struction of 21 

Kailua,   Description  of 12,    31,   37,   44 

Kailua,   Missionary  visits  to 25 

Kalakaua,   Revival  of  heathenism  by 22 

Kalakua,    Hawaiian   Chief,   Data   concern- 
ing          34 

Kanepaiki,    Hawaiian    Chief,    Description 

of 43,   47 

Kapiolani,    Data    concerning 22 

Kauai,    A   trip   to,   described 49 

Kaumakapili   church.   Building  of 41,   59 

Kaumualii,    Data   concerning 47 

Kawaiahao   church.    Data   concerning.  ..  36,    59 

Kekuanaoa,   Trip  of,   around  Oahu 47,   51 

Kekupuohe,   Description   of 25 

Keliiahonui   described    47 

Keoua,    Data    concerning 24 

Kilauea,   Visit   to,    in    1836 25 

Kinau,    Trip    of,    around    Oahu 47,   51 

Knapp,    H.    O.,    Data   concerning 49 

Koloa   plantation.    Data   concerning 49 

Kou  trees.   Cause  of  destruction  of 37 

Krakatoa,    volcanic    explosion 10 

Kuakini,     Gov.,    Data    concerning 

12,    13,    21,    26,   30 


64 


PAGE. 

Ladd  &  Brinsmado  engaged  in  sugar  cul- 
ture     49 

Lafon,   Rev.  Thomas,  Data  concerning...  52 

Lahnina,    A   Kona   storm   at 7 

Lahaina  i-luircli.  First  stone  in  islands...  33 

Lahnina,  Status  of,  in  the  fifties 6 

Lahaina.  Trip  to 7,   31,   32,  33 

Lahniualuna  school.  Bishop  principal  of .  .  7 

Lamps,    Native,    described 27 

Lyons,  Rev.  Lorenzo,  Data  concerning.  .24,  55 

Mauna  Lon,    Eruption   of 33 

Medical  care  of  people  by  missionaries.  .  .  16 

Milk,    Supply    of 16,  43 

Mission   buildings,    Stvle  of 12,    17, 

18,    21,    23,   24,    33,    34,   41.    42,    50,    58,  59 
Mission    children,    not    permitted   to   learn 

Hawaiian    5,  20 

Mission,    General  meetings  of 31,  56 

Mission   servants.       "See  "Wages." 

Missionaries,  An  error  of 41 

"            Attack  on,   by  ship  masters.  6 
"            Duties  and  method  of  life  of 

5,   9,   16,   17,  21,  50,  51 

"  Food  supply  of.      See  "Food 

Supply." 

"            Opponents  of,  types.  .  .27,  28,  29 

"            Pay  of 44 

"            Pioneer  band,  date  of  arrival  4 

"             Reinforcements  of 4,   36,  52 

"             Visit  of  Oregon  party  of .  .  .  .  51 

"            Visits  of,  to  Kailua 25 

Missionary  children,  Education  and  con- 
ditions of  life  of,  in  Ha- 
waii  5,   19,   20,  21,  38,  40 

"            clothing  described    30 

lady.    Daily  life  of 30 

"             lands.    Area   of 15 

"            life    at    Ewa    described 42 

"  servants,    Number,    pay    and 

status  of    15 

Monarchy,  Attitude  of  Bishop  toward  over- 
throw of    9 

Money,    Character  of,    in   early  days.... 29,  44 

Moral  conditions  in  Ewa  and  Waianae.  .  .  43 

Music,   inharmonious  in   early  days 30 

Naihe,   Hawaiian  Chief,   Description  of...  26 
Native  clothing.       See  "Clothing  Native." 
Natives,  common.   Status  of,  relations  with 

chiefs 13,   29,   44,  47,  60 

Native  horses,  character  of 12,  58 

Native  industries    14 

Natives,  Poverty  of  common 12,  14,  29 


PAGE. 

Ogden,   Miss,   Data   concerning 34,  41 

Pearl  Harbor,  Description  of 46 

Pigs,   Kinds  and  supply  of 14,   16,  19 

Population  of  Hawaii,   Composition  of,  in 

1853 60 

Postage  and  postal  methods 39 

Poverty  of  natives 12,   14,  29 

Revival,  The  great,  Description  and  effects 

of   53,   54,  55 

Richards,  Rev.  Wm.,  Fired  at,  at  Lahaina  6 

"                 "             Data   concerning...  33 

Roads,   State  of,   in   1853 60 

Royal  Palm,    Introduction  of,   to  Hawaii.  6 

Royal  school.  Character  of 48 

Ruggles,   Rev.,   Data  concerning 22,  23 

Schools.       See  "Education  of  natives"...  40 

Schools,    Training,    Data    concerning 41 

Shipping,  Method  of  towing  in  Honolulu.  59 

Silk  culture  on  Kauai 49 

Singing,   Inharmonious  in  early  days.  ...  36 

Smallpox,    Epidemic    of 46 

Smith,    Lowell,   Data   concerning. ..  .21,   41,  46 

Sugar  culture  on   Kauai 49 

Surf-riding    and    canoes 18,  60 

Tapa   and  mat  making 38 

Tapule,  Deborah,  Hawaiian  Chief 50 

Thurston,   Asa,   Data  concerning 

16,    18,    19,   21,   28,  32 

Thurston  children.   Data  concerning.  ...  19,  21 

Thurston,   Mrs.   Lucy  G.,   Data  concerning  4 

Tinker,   Rev.   Reuben,   Data   concerning.  .  53 

Titcomb,  Mr.,   engaged  in  silk  culture....  49 

Tomatoes,    Introduction   of 39 

Tools,    Stone   and   steel 27,  29 

Transportation   in    Honolulu   in    1853....  60 

Transportation,    Inter-island,    described.. 31,  32 

Trees  and  flowers  in  Hawaii  described...  37 

"      Destruction  of   Kou 37 

"      Scarcity    of,    in    Honolulu 58 

Vancouver,   Cattle  introduced  by 16 

"             Data   concerning    24 

Volcano.       See    "Kilauea." 

Wages  of   servants  and  laborers 

15,    44,    49,    53,  60 

Waialua,  Trips  to.  Description  of 45 

Waianae,   Morals   of.   Life  in 43 

Waikiki  road  in  1853 60 

Waimea,   Visit  to  and  description  of... 23,  24 

Water,   drinking,    Source  of,   at  Kailua...  14 

Weather  at  Kailua  and  Ewa  contrasted.  .  31 

Whale  ships   at  Honolulu 59 

Young,  John,   Data  concerning 23,  24 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 
Los  Angeles 

This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 

rETD  LDUFI 

■  •ii'J 

MAY     9  1977 

OISCHARGE-URL 
MAR  2  '■  1981 

0\SCWA«GE-«^ 

. 

NOV  1  ?.  '■' 

' 

Form  L9-Series  4939 

3  1158  00663  4967   '<;U^ 


UC  SOUTHERN  RFGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 


AA    001  028  737 


